First, a bit of DIY for the more adventurous...
Originally Posted by source
To launch Design_Download - a series demystifying the fashion process by offering prestigious designer garment patterns for download - internationally acclaimed designer Yohji Yamamoto contributed an enigmatic pattern for viewers to print out and make up into an exclusive, mystery garment, free of charge. Nick Knight's photographs of the piece hold the visual key to stitching together your own.Now you have the original pattern of a certain garment. It is hard to see what it is just looking at it. The fabric should be some kind of wool... Then, you have the photo that tells you a little bit more. Take a close look at the symbols that are inscribed on the pattern. They are important leads to construct the garment. Now, spread your imagination and good luck!
- Yohji Yamamoto, May 2002
... now let's board the time capsule for a (very) short ride
Spring 1994* * *
Originally Posted by asobu
Maybe we should get some archive stuff up in here!A/W 1991
, as far as I know, showed in paris at the end of january 1991 and then showed again together with CdG in Tokyo on June 1st and called "6.1 the men". Still one of the most talked about and coveted collections by Yohji fans in Japan from what I can tell, many of the pieces still catch quite large sums on the second hand market. The theme was "war", several musicians incl Charles Lloyd and John Cale (who also modeled in AW04 btw) modeled the show and apparently sang some antiwar song together at the final part of the show (the collection was created and shown during the gulf war). Some of the signature pieces was the leather jacket with women prints on the back (he referenced this in "my dear bomb" as well, when he talked about nose art of american fighter planes being pictures of "girlfriends and sexy ladies" when heading into battle), zipper jackets and Joan Miró inspired blazers
This is a great story from Ottmar Liebert
about his experience when he walked the show, well worth the read
In 1991 the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto, together with Comme des Garcons, was putting on the first men's fashion show in Japan and asked me to be one of his runway models. At the time Yohji prefered to use actors and musicians over models and he has also used athletes in the past. I flew to Tokyo from Los Angeles and was picked up at the airport and taken to a very nice hotel in Tokyo, which Frank Lloyd Wright had designed in the sixties.
The show took place in the olympic swim stadium of Tokyo, where the pool had been covered by a runway stage. On each end of the runway a huge wall was erected. Behind one wall Yamamoto was set up and behind the other wall Comme Des Garcons.
Comme Des Garcons: Dennis Hopper, Trumpet player Don Cherry and his son Eagle-Eye Cherry (a TV presenter in the UK and not yet the pop star), british actor Julian something or other, Keyboardist Morgan Fisher (who later produced the wonderful CD "Miniatures" to which I contributed a piece)...
Yohji Yamamoto: Charles Lloyd, Edgar Winter, a member of YMO (one of Japans most famous bands, which also featured Ryuichi Sakamoto)...
Yohji and his people treated everyone wonderfully. And then he made a mistake on the day of the show. Thinking we were all men instead of the stars some felt they were, he offered as part of the refreshments Japanese cans of beer. In Japan cans are tiny, they are cute and many of the guys probably thought that one couldn't possibly get drunk from drinking tiny cans of beer....well, if you drink a dozen of them you do get drunk, you know! And then a British pop singer asked a French rapper to turn down the crap on his boom-box and the French guy responded with his fist, which fractured the pop guy's jaw. While he was rushed to the hospital Yohji's people frantically searched for somebody who could wear his clothes.... In the end one of Yohji's French employees took his place and wore the clothes well. I felt terribly embarassed. Here we were in one of the great cities of the world, guests of a real artist, and these men had to get into a fight. What a way to repay Yohji's kindness! But fame is fleeting and karma instant.. I never heard from the British pop star and the French rapper again...
And here's your factoid of the day, the boorish French rapper in question is this fellow below (I believe those are your scans from SZ, Asobu), he actually went on to be hugely famous (in France) as one half of the hip hop group Suprême NTM, one of the two major French hip hop groups of the 90s (an easily the most virulent one of the two). I don't really understand how he came about to be in a YY show to begin with but the behavior seems par for the course, the name of the group was NTM after all (if you don't know what NTM stands for, look it up).