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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 269

post #4021 of 5783

Speaking of sizing up, how big is too big?

 

The diversity of Yamamoto jacket sizes within the same numerical alphabetical frame amazes me. I have two Yamamoto jackets- one size 3 bought in store that's by a fair distance the slimmest Yamamoto jacket I've seen: I can't quite find it online, strangely the Jacket's cut and detailing corresponds pretty much exactly to this, but the material does not:

 

Perhaps the material they used changed between the catwalk presentation and stocking instore- its 100% cotton but is stiffer and somehow more jacket-y than this photo suggests. So, so so beautiful though and fits me virtually perfectly. I haven't measured it but it seems if anything slightly smaller than other non-Yamamoto jackets I wear that are size 38s. 

 

My only other Yamamoto jacket I bought online, size M, and comes from late 90's, In terms of quantity of material though it dwarfs the other- fits like a coat, and any bigger it would probably be at risk of sliding off my shoulders. I love it. It looks like a fairly conventional black jacket but in wearing it just drapes me. So cool.

 

It seems like two ends of the extreme- one is about as fitted as YYPH is liable to get, the other as oversize. 


Edited by StevenE - 1/16/13 at 1:44am
post #4022 of 5783

Thanks for that info David. Now I'm not sure what to think. The seller claims he bought it from the Conduit St store on sale, over ten years ago, and that the two pieces where sold as a suit, even though the tags don't match. As I mentioned a while back, my girlfriend is a clothing historian and pretty good at spotting a well-made piece, and she thinks its very well-made, and very unlikely to be a cheap fake. If it is a fake, the only thing I can think of is that it's a jacket that was made by a very competent tailor, or is from another good brand, that has, for mysterious reasons, had a Yohji tag sowed in. The mystery deepens. I'd be very interested to hear if anyone has seen this format of tag before (with the white on black size number hanging underneath the gray tag.)


Edited by Arche - 1/15/13 at 10:50am
post #4023 of 5783
Btw Arche, my personal opinion is Yohji jackets DO come out of the factories with the pockets sewn. I have bought many pieces from Yoox, Y! and even eBay with that feature, some even have vents/splits still sewn together. They probably came from the warehouse/stock somewhere.

What I do find, maybe rather oddly but understandably, that I've not seen one single jacket/coat in a Flagship or other retailers like LN-CC and Hervia Bazaar with pockets still sewn. I figure that the retailers deliberately open the pockets before putting the pieces on the racks, imagine we all habitually put our hands in various pockets when trying things on in Boutiques etc so they make this easier.

But I'm afraid it's highly unlikely a mispelling can occur on a Yohji tag which must be mass produced in the factory, let alone a number tag attached to it like that, sorry frown.gif
post #4024 of 5783
Does the blazer have a composition thin tag inside the collar by the neck?

Anyway if the pants were MIJ + the blazer MIF, they can't be a suit anyway. What about buttons? Horn or those signature Yohji buttons? Matching the pants'?
post #4025 of 5783

Do any women contribute to this thread?

post #4026 of 5783
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenE View Post

Do any women contribute to this thread?

Very very few women on this site in general as I understand it, unfortunately.
post #4027 of 5783

Oh really! I've only ever looked at this thread and the classifieds so I hadn't noticed.

 

It's a shame because YYfemme is amazing.

 

Out of interest does anyone know when S.M,L sizing was dropped in favour of the numbers?

post #4028 of 5783
spring/summer 2000, I believe !
post #4029 of 5783

Great thanks - I have a YYPH jacket with the code HU in size M - i guess that dates it at 1997.

post #4030 of 5783
Thread Starter 
So, with the YYPH show coming up tomorrow I thought it would be prudent to remind those members of this thread that are in Paris that it is imperative that they post a group photo before and after the show as well as treat us with random shots of themselves in Paris and possibly at one of the flagship stores.

I also think that impressions of SS13 as I believe it is in stores now is definitely on the cards as well.

Not much to ask for I don't think? biggrin.gif

Have you guys hooked up yet? david? asobu? wire? kiko?
post #4031 of 5783
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenE View Post

Speaking of sizing up, how big is too big?

The diversity of Yamamoto jacket sizes within the same numerical alphabetical frame amazes me. I have two Yamamoto jackets- one size 3 bought in store that's by a fair distance the slimmest Yamamoto jacket I've seen: I can't quite find it online, strangely the Jacket's cut and detailing corresponds pretty much exactly to this, but the material does not: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Perhaps the material they used changed between the catwalk presentation and stocking instore- its 100% cotton but is stiffer and somehow more jacket-y than this photo suggests. So, so so beautiful though and fits me virtually perfectly. I haven't measured it but it seems if anything slightly smaller than other non-Yamamoto jackets I wear that are size 38s. 

My only other Yamamoto jacket I bought online, size M, and comes from late 90's, In terms of quantity of material though it dwarfs the other- fits like a coat, and any bigger it would probably be at risk of sliding off my shoulders. I love it. It looks like a fairly conventional black jacket but in wearing it just drapes me. So cool.

It seems like two ends of the extreme- one is about as fitted as YYPH is liable to get, the other as oversize. 

Yeah that jacket showed up in about 3 different iterations to my knowledge and all of them were sized differently apparently. I figure some technical issues with the various fabrics used might have governed the final construction. I have this jacket in a wool gabardine size 3, even though I usually wear a size 4 to get that slight oversized look. It fits very well in the chest and arms, but I keep feeling it should be a bit bigger somehow. Despite the variance in fit across one size bracket, I think that one can really play it safe with Yohji by just sticking to the size that works the most with the typical anti-fit. That way, if you come across a tighter fitting jacket in your size notation, chances are it should still fit (assuming one is not overweight to begin with, hehe).

It is pretty cool that Yohji does the occasional fitted items as it really makes it easy to just stick with the brand for all one's needs.

Yohji has ruined my judgement though as I now cannot tell what is considered fitted any more and feel downright exposed in so called fitted pants and shirts.
post #4032 of 5783
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

So, with the YYPH show coming up tomorrow I thought it would be prudent to remind those members of this thread that are in Paris that it is imperative that they post a group photo before and after the show as well as treat us with random shots of themselves in Paris and possibly at one of the flagship stores.

I also think that impressions of SS13 as I believe it is in stores now is definitely on the cards as well.

Not much to ask for I don't think? biggrin.gif

Have you guys hooked up yet? david? asobu? wire? kiko?

Ok, see what we can do smile.gif

Only part of the SS13 are on display, sadly the 2nd shipment, including those block rayon/rayon blend blazers, will only be on the racks from 21st Jan ( we leave Paris 19th ). However the stuff on show so far are impressive, the black wool gab stuff are superb, there is one gab iteration of what the SAs there call Parachute Jacket ( the orange cotton Look 10 ) is a must buy ( @sale lol ) for yours truly. Its trick back panel is folded over @the back ( not seen on Runway ) creating a flared out silhouette, moreover there are multiple buttoned hidden inside back pockets to store things. Simply stunning construction.

Look 25 coat in black, so roomy & long, big sleeves.

Look 29 suit with those cool dangling coiled decorative cotton bits, great, not very oversized.

Those Look 41, 42, 43 rayon print pants will be yours cos I'm too shy to pull them off.

We will go back to the store at least once more to try on some stuff, it's -4 deg C here (!) so kinda lazy and too cold to remove all those layers today to try summer stuff... hopefully next time with pictures.

No SS13 YY Femme on the racks yet.

As for the AW13 Runway.....Afghan Hound comes to mind.....and that's in about 10 hours..
Edited by davidlee388 - 1/17/13 at 12:58am
post #4033 of 5783
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot for the initial impressions David. Looking forward to the pics you guys end up taking, hehe.

That look 10 jacket always looked interesting from the runway video, nice to hear there's a lot more going on under the hood. The orange is more wearable in person?

I am really interested in picking up the look 7 jacket with the tail. Looks amazing from the back. Also looking out for the one in look 9.

As for those pants, I will definitely be picking at least one of the iterations up. Was eying the one in look 32 actually. The fabric looked pretty interesting.
post #4034 of 5783
Y's pant i got finally came in today. It's a thick almost sweat pant like wool. It is a size 3. Perfect for lounging around in biggrin.gif

Very nice but might need to be hemmed as adjusting the length makes it far too thick of a cuff.

Will post pics later but the code us MU-P14-101
post #4035 of 5783
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Thanks a lot for the initial impressions David. Looking forward to the pics you guys end up taking, hehe.

That look 10 jacket always looked interesting from the runway video, nice to hear there's a lot more going on under the hood. The orange is more wearable in person?

I am really interested in picking up the look 7 jacket with the tail. Looks amazing from the back. Also looking out for the one in look 9.

As for those pants, I will definitely be picking at least one of the iterations up. Was eying the one in look 32 actually. The fabric looked pretty interesting.

Check your inbox, not the SF one smile.gif

The orange is ..... very orange smile.gif
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