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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 26

post #376 of 5822
+1. beautiful ^^^

I found some back details from homme ss12 at italian vogue.

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Edited by Parker - 5/26/12 at 9:15am
post #377 of 5822
^great stuff


for more menswear examples there's the suspender collection:

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Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

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post #378 of 5822
I've broken and just bought my first Yohji piece.

Yes it's fairly restrained and not the bravest piece I could start with, but it will work with pieces in my existing wardrobe whilst I hunt out/save up for a pair of Yohji trousers and a shirt, whilst still having enough of the over-sized but beautifully cut look. It's diffusion (Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme) but from what I can gather this isn't a bad line - certainly it's nice fabric, well cut and nicely made. BNWT for a reasonable price, excuse the dodgy ebay pics:



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post #379 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

I've broken and just bought my first Yohji piece.
Yes it's fairly restrained and not the bravest piece I could start with, but it will work with pieces in my existing wardrobe whilst I hunt out/save up for a pair of Yohji trousers and a shirt, whilst still having enough of the over-sized but beautifully cut look. It's diffusion (Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme) but from what I can gather this isn't a bad line - certainly it's nice fabric, well cut and nicely made. BNWT for a reasonable price, excuse the dodgy ebay pics: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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I'm glad you did! I honestly think Yohji - both YYPH and costume d'homme - would look fantastic on you. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif Like you said, the latter is more restrained design wise and is more formal in cuts and detailing but the quality is up with YYPH from what I've seen (retail prices too...) and the fabrics are very nice in beautiful wools and cotton. This is a classic coat and definitely not a bad starting point and following it up with some pants and shirts will hopefully get you hooked, hehe.
post #380 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Looks good MoK!

Let us know your size so we can enable more effectively devil.gif
Edited by Ivwri - 2/8/12 at 6:52pm
post #381 of 5822

 

 

 Yohji Yamamoto show at Den-En Colosseum, Tokyo, Japan 1981. 180 outfits

 

 

For educational purpose only LOL

 

Enjoy

post #382 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

I'm glad you did! I honestly think Yohji - both YYPH and costume d'homme - would look fantastic on you. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif Like you said, the latter is more restrained design wise and is more formal in cuts and detailing but the quality is up with YYPH from what I've seen (retail prices too...) and the fabrics are very nice in beautiful wools and cotton. This is a classic coat and definitely not a bad starting point and following it up with some pants and shirts will hopefully get you hooked, hehe.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Looks good MoK!
Let us know your size so we can enable more effectively devil.gif

Cheers. Size wise the coat's a 4 and I think that's what I'd need in a shirt (42-43" chest). Pants wise I generally take a 36" so I'm guessing it's going to be a 4/5. Size 2 Yohji stuff seems easy to come by but the larger sizes are a little less common. I'm after plain trousers (not keen on pinstripes beyond suits), preferably black or grey and probably a white shirt, though grey or black are possibilities. Pricing is going to have to be reasonable (I've bought too Cabourn jackets this month already...).
post #383 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xumatrix View Post

 Yohji Yamamoto show at Den-En Colosseum, Tokyo, Japan 1981. 180 outfits
For educational purpose only LOL

Enjoy

That was a great video, thanks for posting. Always interesting to see his really early stuff in motion. I also liked the way the models were moving smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by ManofKent View Post

Cheers. Size wise the coat's a 4 and I think that's what I'd need in a shirt (42-43" chest). Pants wise I generally take a 36" so I'm guessing it's going to be a 4/5. Size 2 Yohji stuff seems easy to come by but the larger sizes are a little less common. I'm after plain trousers (not keen on pinstripes beyond suits), preferably black or grey and probably a white shirt, though grey or black are possibilities. Pricing is going to have to be reasonable (I've bought too Cabourn jackets this month already...).

Orders received and understood captain! Can't wait to see a WAYWT post icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #384 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Y-3 Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign Video -


Some info on the inspirations behind the video (Click to show)
February 08, 2012 (Germany)
Quote:
'The Precipice' by Collier defines Brasilia’s architecture

The new Yohji Yamamoto (Y-3) Spring/Summer 2012 campaign by Collier Schorr takes its cue from the experimental city of Brasilia. Portraits are collaged with xeroxes of archival Brasilia, to suggest a delicate balance between the body and the many ways it is contained.

'The Precipice', Schorr's fictitious travelogue, leads us further into Brasilia's dramatic landscape of 20th century modernist architecture. In the campaign concrete structures that loom all around Brasilia read like excavated ruins from a future civilization.

Brasilia, 1960, was a city of uncertainty. A new social experience installed by a government anxious to establish its reputation as a democracy. At the heart of this planned utopia was the pursuit of newness. Collier Schorr's images for Y-3 are a meditation on the sense of otherness that evolves out of this progress, the unnerving bond between human beings and their environment.

In the accompanying mood film, the female narrator remarks "If it is a shore it has long ago been emptied of what lies past its edge.” She speaks to us of the warmth of surfaces, along with her fears and desires to connect with her surroundings; a yearning so real that the city appears no longer as just a collection of concrete buildings, tunnels and roadways, but a living body.

'The Precipice' is a film of layers: from the opening act that introduces us to a story-within-a story to the projected landscape planted both behind and directly over its actors. The film's soundtrack, itself a densely woven tapestry, is cobbled together from various sources; field recordings, old sci-fi films, and excerpts from The Disintegration Loops by William Basinski.

“I was inspired by the androgyny of Yohji Yamanoto’s designs to translate the clothing’s dualities onto screen and image. I was playing with a multitude of influences for the S/S 2012 campaign, inspired by the modernist literature and architecture that is in itself a fusion of political and architectural mantras, both dreamy and concrete.” - Collier Schorr.

The result is an over-arching communication campaign that translates into still images and a short mood film, followed by an updated brand website design, all released globally February 2012.
via
post #385 of 5822
Thread Starter 
On the women's side, one of Yohji's muses was the German dancer, Pina Bausch.

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Quote:
She collaborated with Yohji Yamamoto in 1998, for the 25th anniversary of the Pina Bausch dance company in Wuppertal; to accompany her choreography, all the dancers wore Yohji Yamamoto clothing. For this performance, Yohji Yamamoto joined the dancers on stage performing karate. Yohji considered Pina as an inspiration, a muse: to him, she represented the perfect silhouette and movement reduced to the very essence of body and clothes. A whole Yohji Yamamoto collection was dedicated to her in 1990. They shared a very strong opinion and desire for “what cannot be seen”.
- Taken from the COMING SOON blog. The post on Pina is pretty cool and it also brings into perspective the COMING SOON campaign videos which were all heavily dance performance inspired.

A picture from the 25th anniversary performance -

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He also apparently dedicated a collection to her in 1990. I found some Nick Knight campaign pictures from the Spring Summer collection of that year online and one of them looks dance inspired to me. I am not sure whether this is the collection in question though. Will do some more digging. Here are the pics -

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And finally, a video trailer for a film made by Wim Wenders about Pina Bausch. Talking about dance and movement with still images is a major disservice to the form smile.gif. You can see how dance would have influenced Yohji as a designer, that fusion of body and clothing into this abstract whole is something I can imagine appealing to him. Yohji's clothes always seem to be designed to follow the movement of the wearer closely without restricting it or imposing their own form on the body. Unlike designers like Carol Christian Poell whose very ethic seems to be the complete antithesis to this.
post #386 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Sorry for the post dump, but I just found what looks like a full video for Yohji's AW 2003/2004 pour homme collection and had to share smile.gif


YOHJI YAMAMOTO (Automne-Hiver 2003/2004 Paris) from Tadashi Yabe on Vimeo.

post #387 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Spring 2006 'Baseball' collection.

The show was set to a rendition of "Take me out to the ball game" and, as is pretty obvious, was inspired heavily by baseball.

Despite my having no love for the sport (don't hurt me!), I really like the styling and a lot of the pieces (have a jacket and a pair of pants thanks to asobu and both are pretty cool). Still on the lookout for the suspenders and the cropped pants in black or polka dot.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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The kids also look like they had a lot of fun happy.gif.
post #388 of 5822
Thread Starter 
The pants for the SS2009 suit I wore a while back are up for sale in a size 2 on eBay.

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Auction is here. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

The material is gorgeous (a linen and silk blend) and the colour is great.
post #389 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

He also apparently dedicated a collection to her in 1990. I found some Nick Knight campaign pictures from the Spring Summer collection of that year online and one of them looks dance inspired to me. I am not sure whether this is the collection in question though.

It is indeed S/S 1990 that is the 'Pina' collection. Pics online are scarce though. Here are two:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Sorry for the post dump, but I just found what looks like a full video for Yohji's AW 2003/2004 pour homme collection and had to share smile.gif

Awwww hell yeah!! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif You have no idea how long I've wanted to see this in motion! I love this collection, even though part of it are not for me (the overly military ones, the leather at the end) I still love the vibe so much. The distressed pinstripes are fun and so good, some of the overcoats are amazing and I'm weirdly drawn to the tattoo print silk suits. shog[1].gif
post #390 of 5822
Goddammit. I've been looking into sizing Yohji knits and it looks like all the good ones are in size 3 which is much too long for me plain.gif They fall in the 28-29" length range whereas 25-27" is my ideal (for crewnecks, at least).

wish there were fit pics of some shorter dudes rocking the oversized knit successfully look so i could get some validation, but alas it probably was not meant to be.

someone buy this so i get less depressed about being short redface.gif
http://www.styleforum.net/t/288026/yohji-yamamoto-pour-homme-fair-isle-sweater-size-3
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