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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 25

post #361 of 5822
Alright, I'll continue with some of the archive effort. Don't have a good runway story this time around though, hehe



YYPH SPRING-SUMMER 2002

""Paris, Jun 30, 2001/ FWD/ --- Few things underlined fashion's current obsession with denim as much as the Yohji Yamamoto men's collection Saturday in Paris.

After a Milan season crammed with ripped, embroidered and paint-splattered denim, Yamamoto took a new angle by using denim of distinctive textures in Edwardian-style outfits for groovy gentlemen, with frock coats and
double- breasted redingotes.

But the big idea of the collection was an homage to the legendary Japanese director Yasujiro Ozu, as Yohji featured '50s movie poster images of beautiful Asian film stars on a score of outfits.

Several of these looks were executed with virtuosity, like a sensational double-layer fine semi-transparent mesh shirt with the movie star's face on the inside.

A draped wool jacket whose crest was an image of a girl laying on the grass reading a magazine, a chambray suit with an acid-dyed column, and some intriguing jackets with one side double-breasted and the other side single, underlined the master's technical skill.

While legendary among fashion cognoscenti, Yohji, the designer's designer, has never become as internationally famous as some lesser talents.

Ironically Yohji's skill has, in a way, prevented him from becoming more widely known. The fact is that Yamamoto's ideas are so technically complicated, they are hard to copy."

Godfrey Deeny, fashionwindows

So there are two key themes, the actress embroidery/prints and the denim variation. I love a lot of this, I'm particulary fond of the first part with the smaller embroidery which is a glorious re-interpretation of the dog embroidery from SS90, down to some of the cuts (e.g. the long 2 btn jacket), and some of the double layered mesh ones. I don't wear much denim but I have to say I love some of the cuts and I like what he's done with it here.


(as always with YY the collection is kind of long so perhaps I shouldn't have have bothered with the whole thing but at least the spoiler makes it easier to read the thread. I hope to god these pics work now, I don't have the patience to do it again)


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

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Edited by asobu - 2/3/12 at 2:20am
post #362 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Pics work and it looks great! Once I get on my laptop will give it a better look. Good stuff.
post #363 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

^I compared the prices of a few pieces in Paris to the japanese lists you managed to get hold of (amazing and massively useful, btw, thanks a lot! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif ) and the difference seem to be 30% (pink striped hakamas) to 50% (silk jacket, lo-cut sneakers) more expensive in Paris. I'm guessing the UK pricing is similar.


Yeah, the price in UK is also freaking expensive eek.gif.

My friend in HK, tells me that the price is lovely there.

i think the store located in the harbour city mall

post #364 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

How popular is Spotted Horse in Japan compared to Edwin? I had heard of Edwin before, but not Spotted Horse (primarily because of their collabo with a videogame redface.gif)

Spotted Horse is a famous denim distressing company in Japan. They don't actually make their own denim, but denim companies send them their jeans to be aged and distressed by hand. Jeans done by them are very expensive.
post #365 of 5822
Thanks asobu. I like a lot the jacket shapes in that collection. Love this look, I'm going try to replicate it for spring:
2002 (Click to show)
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post #366 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info Artking3. So that means that all the earlier collabs between Yohji and Spotted Horse have been YY sourcing their own denim and doing the actual design and cutting process while Spotted Horse gives them special treatments?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Thanks asobu. I like a lot the jacket shapes in that collection. Love this look, I'm going try to replicate it for spring: 2002 (Click to show)
photo_mid_def_164290.jpg

Yeah, it's great, would like to find a shirt like that as well.

I wonder what it is about the prints that draw me in, really nice though. Definitely keeping an eye out for some of the sheer print shirts now.
post #367 of 5822
fulvio-ferrari_784x0.jpg

From L'Uomo Vogue April 2010. [In the picture: jacket, shirt and pants, Yohji Yamamoto]
post #368 of 5822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

Thanks asobu. I like a lot the jacket shapes in that collection. Love this look, I'm going try to replicate it for spring: 2002 (Click to show)
photo_mid_def_164290.jpg

Glad you liked it! I actually have that very same jacket, so far my only piece from this collection and it's fantastic. One of my most worn spring pieces. There are silk stripes around the sleeve cuffs and the hem, as well as a white mesh net underneath that is visbile if you roll the sleeves.
post #369 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

Glad you liked it! I actually have that very same jacket, so far my only piece from this collection and it's fantastic. One of my most worn spring pieces. There are silk stripes around the sleeve cuffs and the hem, as well as a white mesh net underneath that is visbile if you roll the sleeves.

That sounds really cool. Would love to get my hands on that at some point.

I am currently trying to decide whether or not to pick up the Obi belts from the current collection in a few colours or not. I have actually come around to the way they look, but I am undecided whether or not they will be nothing but a novelty accessory to be worn only with the hakama pants when I am feeling particularly Nihonjin, or whether they will be usable in other outfits. What do you guys think?

The white belt can be seen here - http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/S2012MEN-YJIYMOTO/?iphoto=6
post #370 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Lupe Fiasco talks fashion in an interview with Complex where he says Yohji is his favorite Japanese designer -
Quote:
Do you think Japanese designers will be the focus of the future?

I think it's gonna progress in this world. You see it in things like Rick Owens. You see the influence of Yohji, particularly, over everything. But, you trace Yohji back to Vivienne Westwood. A majority of Japanese designers, even Neighborhood, even Nigo, even BAPE, all come from Vivienne Westwood. 

If you look at that being the prototype of it, it's just one big cycle, feeding off each other. Now you see a lot of the Japanese stuff influencing everything from streetwear on down. The most prized streetwear is Japanese streetwear, still to this day.

Shit made in Japan is dope, because the quality's there. Look at things like Converse Japan and Levi's Japan, what they make is way doper than what Converse America or Levi's America makes.

Rest of interview here.
post #371 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Another interview that I don't think has been posted -

Yamamoto: 30 Years at the Cutting Edge by Tamsin Blanchard
Quote:
Yohji Yamamoto is fingering the sleeve of my dress. He is telling me about the outraged reaction to his first show in Paris 30 years ago, and he suddenly stops. 'This is dirty!' Admittedly, the dress in question, an old Vivienne Westwood Anglomania number, is several years old and washed out. It was once black but has turned dark grey from too many washes. I didn't think it was actually dirty, though. His wise and open face, a little lined and weary around the edges, his eyes watery from a cold, breaks into a smile. 'It's beautiful.'

Click
post #372 of 5822
Thread Starter 
Quote:
The back is an erogenous zone for Yohji, the exit being as memorable as the entrance.
- Haidee Findlay-Levin on the Yohji retrospective at the V&A last year.
Quote:
For some reason, I am moved by the female form, as seen from the side, or diagonally from behind. Like a feeling of waiting to chase after and restrain something that passes by, or passes through. You could call it a feeling of “missing” something. A lingering scent is the same. A kind of feeling of longing for something. There is always an adoration for women in me which resembles the temptation I have for things that have passed me by. And so I can only see a woman as someone who passes by, a person who disappears. Therefore the “Back” is important to me. I think clothes should be made from the back, and not the front. The back supports the clothes, and so if it is not properly made, the front cannot exist.

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post #373 of 5822
Thread Starter 
I would have included this jacket

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and some other items from the SS2012 collection as well (the cubism jackets, some of the jersey shirts), but quite difficult to find clear back shots of them anywhere. Love the diagonal slits at the back of this and the long vent at the back. A definite buy for me for those details alone.
post #374 of 5822
Some of my favorites from women's (plus a few from ph):


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more

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

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post #375 of 5822
Wow, gorgeous stuff.
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