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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 208

post #3106 of 6668

My latest, most controversial acquisition, also one of the most enthralling. And to be my last fit for a while.




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






YYPH AW09 Look 13 " Don't Let It Out " Blazer - ( HZ-J10-127 ) - 95/5 wool/nylon blend, dry hand, boiled wool like texture. Size 2, suitably roomy with the best shoulder and sleeve fit. Apart from the bottom half of the back, everywhere is lined with thick off-white cotton, with the inside seams bordered by cotton too. 4B non-working sleeves, 3 inside pockets, 2 bottom flapped pockets, left chest flapped pocket with a concealed button closure, single vent. Diminutive, deconstructed notch lapels are lined with same cotton and feel more at ease standing up than folded. The fabric and construction give out an endearing unfinished, vintage vibe:- blazer closed by a single big stud button yet it looks as if it's cut to be closed conventionally; frayed edges everywhere with long dangling loose threads, taking the distressed look to another level. It looks as if the blazer is still on a torso mannequin to be finished. I'm mildly obsessed by the way the white cotton showing/hiding itself in motion, giving a great contrast.


Then there's the left arm badge. One of 4 iterations on the Runway ( a leaking tap, bottle and toothpaste are the 3 others, all with different cuts ) , this one has a peeing boy ( Manneken Pis-like but with a Yohji hatmwink[1].gif ) with Don't Let It Out in red ( Yohji's humour ). The badge is loosely threaded to the sleeve so it's bobbing about when you move, great. Badge or no badge, it's a superbly ( de )constructed blazer with a great fit. A love-it-or-loathe-it piece. I love it.


YYPH SS11 Look 7 Double Collar LS Shirt - ( HO-B01-800 ) - 100% cotton in white. Size 2 regular fit. 7B closure, asymmetrical double collar ( right one buttoned down ) The double black collar has an additional " lip " of frayed border for a stand up 3rd collar look. 


YYPH SS08 Look 13 Buttoned Hem Pants - ( HM-P54-100 ) - 100% wool gabardine. Size 3, huge and high waisted. Wide legs to tapered hems with an adjustable tab and 2 buttons. Quite superb pants, great in motion.


DM 1460 Mono Boots, CDG H+ belt.


motion & close up




Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Hope you guys keep posting your proud Yohji treasure, sharing your info and experience with us. smile.gif

post #3107 of 6668

beaten up raf velcros.



post #3108 of 6668
Thread Starter 
Lol @ "pre-papa days", we are still waiting for her to come out. Hopefully by December! biggrin.gif

Also snow, I am around, just easier to lurk than post nowadays (got your PM and will reply immediately after this).

As for the shoe issue, I think what Magic1 was just trying to say was that in his estimation since we really like Yohji's stuff for its craft, attention to detail and fabric quality he is surprised that we don't in his estimation do the same with the shoes we wear as well. It is different for everybody of course, and I know personally I have been eyeing some "higher end" footwear but I think the main thing here is that Yohji essentially is not really about "fashion" as such and so there are no rules of expression at all. In fact, since Yohji is about "anti-fashion" not wearing those shoes that would be the expected thing on enthusiast forums like this could also be part of making the statement smile.gif. Pairing high with low and all that.

Bottom line, it is about what one is comfortable with wearing and buying as opposed to what is the optimal thing to do. To wear Yohji is like being the guy/girl with the weird "character build" in an RPG that is played just for laughs as opposed to being the one properly constructed to offer maximum returns.

post #3109 of 6668
I miss my raf velcros frown.gif (had the high top version)
post #3110 of 6668
Thread Starter 
And to contribute -

Me from about two weeks back.

Shirt is YYPH (HM-B28_810). Beautiful shirt I picked up from wireartist. Knitted cotton sleeves and back with a 50% cotton 50% silk front. Sleeves are extremely long and while it can be a bit warm, I have found no problems wearing it on its own around the city. Makes for some great layering though! The back is also longer than the front which gives a nice detail when a jacket is worn over the shirt making people wonder where the knitted fabric is coming from, heh. One of my favourite shirts.

Pants are AW11 cotton high waisted pants. Worn these before and they are still one of my favourites. Wonderful drape and can be worn in so many different ways. I folded the waist this time and put the shirt over it.

Boots are Y's for men that I picked up a while back from Mail-Moth over on SZ.
post #3111 of 6668
It really says something about yohji and the non issue of sizing. Both Ivwri and David have bought a piece off of wireartist and they fit all sizes and shapes smile.gif
post #3112 of 6668
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

I miss my raf velcros frown.gif (had the high top version)

i forgot that i own pair. paid £50 for them 3 years ago. when yoox was good.

post #3113 of 6668
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by snowmanxl View Post

It really says something about yohji and the non issue of sizing. Both Ivwri and David have bought a piece off of wireartist and they fit all sizes and shapes smile.gif

Yeah it's great! I also picked up this awesome shirt from dantebykiko (Thanks again K!) that definitely fits me differently, but the slightly cropped sleeves are just perfect for me. It's why sometimes I take a chance on stuff that is out of my usual size range cos you can end up with some cool surprises. I also like the fact that it still ties in with the whole Yohji concept of clothes that were hand-me-downs and so not fitting quite right.

I recently picked up August Sanders People of the 20th Century (well, one of the volumes...not sure how it works right now) off ln-cc and seeing those mug shots reminded me of them. Farmers are in full suits and it is so awesome seeing so many design ideas that Yohji riffed on from August Sander's photographs and that period in general. Will try and take some choice pics to upload later.
post #3114 of 6668
Another great and effortless fit from you Ivwri ( BTW Snow both Ivwri and I have " fostered " much more than one great piece off Wire, makes you wonder what the man does keep in his archive lol ). That SS08 shirt is tremendous. You've been MIA for too long!

Thanks for the comment ( and the other " like " elsewhere, you know what I mean ) on that AW09. I hear you ask why I call it controversial. Well initially I was captivated by the Don't Let It Out series on the Runway, particularly its old school cut, distressed finish and a soft spot for the cotton lining ( I have a AW09 Y's jacket lined in cotton as well, it's called the Traveller Blazer by ForwardForward at the time, 15 pockets!! ). Then I tried a sz 2 Look 10 ( Toothpaste ) in Joyce Warehouse 2 yrs ago, but I didn't buy it regrettably. Been waiting for that again on Y! to no avail; this Look 13 has been on Y! a long while, initially my least favorite of the 4, the badge ( Weeing Boy ) can be a joke too far. However now I've discovered it fits even better than Look 10, nice surprise ( not apparent on Runway pic ) being a single stud closure as well ( very liberating and more distressed construction wise ) so the badge becomes a non issue. By my estimation unless the threads are reinforced, the badge's gonna be dislodged after a few outings lol.
post #3115 of 6668

Patti smith channelling some yohji style:



Also, really awesome fit Ivwri, and congrats!

post #3116 of 6668
I remember earlier there was a discussion of more colorful yohji pieces. This one caught my eye. I know the shah is always lookin for colorful yohji goodies biggrin.gif

post #3117 of 6668

interesting piece on y! and not expensive.


post #3118 of 6668
In response to david, certainly out of my price range but very interesting nonetheless. Yoox tends to have some high prices on Y peices. Probably think because the peices are old they can charge a collector driven fee?
post #3119 of 6668

I have the toothpaste one, Cut is quiet generous comparing with the more recent offerings. Been looking for the matching pants for quiet a while but to no avail 


AW 09 is actually one of my favorite YY seasons(along with AW05, 07 ,SS09 and SS12). Sadly stuffs from that season rarely pops up on Y! or ebay.......Gilt used to have a bunch (I'm guessing they are from the NYC store), but totally missed out on the sale, sigh......


 some nice findings from Y!


AW10 look 1 Blazer



SS02 Woman embroidery Blazer


AW10 Stole, expensive yes, but it's such an awesome piece....

post #3120 of 6668
haha, don't overthink yoox's pricing scheme it has not and will never make any sense, just like their pictures.
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