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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 188

post #2806 of 5710
prkr925a_zps73dd221e.jpg

coming soon cotton jacket
yyph cotton tank
yyph ramie cargo pants
burberry sandals

still on the hunt for the matching jacket to these pants. one of my yohji grails.

Look 23 from SS08 (Click to show)
post #2807 of 5710
Zomg thos cargo pants are beautiful icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Prorsum grail status sandals are awesome too
post #2808 of 5710
thanks mr. snowman. mrs parker calls them my 'raver' pants. hard to tell from the photo, but the fabric is shimmery and they are huge on me.
post #2809 of 5710

Parker, about 4 months ago the whole SS08 Look 23 ( blazer, pants and knit ) were on Y! from a single seller. Guess you have missed it.... it will appear again hopefully.

 

Anyway we had been under the most dismal weather here the last few days so no recent fit to post, this a few weeks back, a celebration of what epitomizes Yohji clothing:- fabrics, construction, silhouette.

 

 

 

 

back shot ( buttoned ) + fabric

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

YYPH AW09 Look 29 Side Tape Frock Coat - ( HJ-J28-402 ) - one of the best, if not the best, coat I have. Ex-Wire.Artist, very dark grey, 100% silk ( raw silk ), simply outrageously exquisite fabric choice for a AW coat, woven in texture with an indescribable sheen, you can see thru it when hold it against the light. Fully lined in cupro, size 3 has a structured yet roomy size 2 fit ( great ).  2B non-working sleeves. 3B closure dropping to a cutaway front, notch lapels, back vent. There are 3 additional slit studded pockets ( 2 left, 1 right ) to the usual chest + bottom pockets. Each has a long seam dangling extension that creates astonishing drama in motion that pictures cannot capture. Understated yet magnificent. 

 

YYPH AW09 Look 29 Deconstructed Shirt - ( HZ-T15-260 ) - black iteration of the white runway piece. 15/25/40/20 rayon/lyocell/nylon/angora blend, again an extraordinary fabric blend with an extraordinary retail, the softest knit like material. Size 2 huge fit with very long sleeves, chest patch pocket. Extraordinary construction as well, the normal shirt collar can be partly/completely detached via 4 buttons to become a henley look. The buttoned french cuffs are also detachable via 4 buttons revealing a knit cuff. Deconstruction - Yohji's speciality. 

 

original Y! picture - close up

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

YYPH AW04 Look 43 Zipper Pants ( HJ-P12-100 ) - posted before, size 3, great 100% 100 wool gab, adjustable buttoned waist, adjustable foldable zipped hems. Superb fabric and construction.

 

YYPH AW11 Monkey Boots - ( HP-E05-754 ) Size 2, 15 eyelet lace closure, nubuck like leather, side zips.

 

SS Tee, CDG H+ Belt. 

post #2810 of 5710

somebody still like flowers?

http://www.microsofttranslator.com/bv.aspx?from=ja&to=en&a=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mbok.jp%2Fitem%2Fitem_376080913.html

 

nobody wants my nice blue yyph shirt?

bought it from anji_timu and compared to the original price and even what i payed its quit cheap now. smile.gif
 

post #2811 of 5710

last week. chilly berlin.

 

yyph aw05 knitted skirt/scarf

yyph ss99 suit

yyph aw08 boots

y's chain wallet

 

 

post #2812 of 5710
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post

 

yyph aw05 knitted skirt/scarf


 

 

 

 

How does this work? I'd love some more info, as this piece sounds super interesting.
 

post #2813 of 5710
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburn View Post

How does this work? I'd love some more info, as this piece sounds super interesting.

 

Probably the knit part of the shirt-knit hybrid. On its own it can be used as a skirt, an apron or ingeniously a scarf using its many many buttons, right Kiko?
post #2814 of 5710
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post


Probably the knit part of the shirt-knit hybrid. On its own it can be used as a skirt, an apron or ingeniously a scarf using its many many buttons, right Kiko?

almost right smile.gif. it's not part of shirt, it's garment by itself with tag etc. i keep the stock photos actually. 

 

 

 

stock photos. (Click to show)

 

 

i think it's one of those. not sure..

 

 

post #2815 of 5710

this been posted but god i love it so much..

 

 

 

 

Quote:

Yohji Yamamoto Extends the Bonsai Branch

 

On April 24, Japan's Yohji Yamamoto presented his first annual Y’s show for his new philanthropy, Yohji Yamamoto Foundation for Peace, in Beijing, China. The objective was to generate much-needed good vibes between the former foes and foster creativity among China's rising designers. Here, images and fun facts...

 

  • The venue was the Ancestral Temple in the middle of the Forbidden City.
  •  
  • Among the six hundred attendees were Chinese artists Lu Zhirong, Inri, Victoria Lu, Liu Dan and—in the spirit of peace—special guests from Hong Kong.
  •  
  • One Japanese and one Chinese model walked with mostly European models. And next year, the Foundation will sponsor a Chinese model to make her Paris Fashion Week debut.
  •  
  • Also next year, the Foundation will sponsor a winning Chinese designer to enroll in fashion school in either Japan or Europe.
  •  
  • The collection consisted of 58 looks, 33 of which were auctioned off by Sotheby's to raise funds for the Foundation.
  •  
  • The closing dress of the show received the highest bid: 270,000 yuan, or $37,000.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2816 of 5710
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Probably the knit part of the shirt-knit hybrid. On its own it can be used as a skirt, an apron or ingeniously a scarf using its many many buttons, right Kiko?

it's actually different from the hybrid pieces( I was wrong) , the knit is lighter and softer and sold by itself. I don't think it's in any of the looks kiko posted tho.
post #2817 of 5710
I know it's been said repeatedly, but thanks so much to all who have contributed to this thread. In addition to being unwaveringly positive and welcoming, this has been the densest and most inspiring thread I've come across. I spent the last two days reading through the entire thread (dodging phone calls and emails from co-workers the whole time), and I gotta say I feel like I'm sitting down to write an exam I never studied for shog[1].gif ... All these different seasons, fabrics, cuts, sizing and the prospect of proxying stuff from yahoo japan/rakuten is a bit much to get my head around.

Testing the waters with some Coming Soon pants atm (thanks Parker), but when I'm a little more flush with cash I hope to buy a couple pairs of wool trousers, a few shirts, and a jacket or two.
post #2818 of 5710

some new interview. not as good as old ones but i like this: 

 

Quote:
I don’t care. If I stop designing, this company loses value. It becomes nothing.

also very right about the internet and how we "flick" through visual information - tumblr/blogs etc...

 

 

Quote:

 

After your Y-3 10th anniversary show in New York, you said that “in the world right now, fashion is s–t.” Can you elaborate on what you meant by that?
Let me talk like an old man. Young people, be careful. Beautiful things are disappearing every day. Be careful.…You don’t need to be [shopping at fast-fashion stores], especially young people. They are beautiful naturally, because they are young. So they should even wear simple jeans and a T-shirt. It’s enough. Don’t be too much fashionable.…The brand advertising is making you crazy. You don’t need to be too sexy. You are sexy enough.

How are you finding life, working as a designer under your fashion house’s new owners, Integral Corp.?
Being a designer, it became easier mentally, because the business part became very strong. So I don’t need to take care about business like before.

So you feel more freedom to just concentrate on designing?
Concentrate, yeah, for creativity.

But is Integral pressuring you in any way to be creative in a certain way that makes commercial sense for them?
I’ve got total freedom. If I feel [like I’m in a] cage, I’m a little bird in the cage, I would quit.

How far along is the company’s restructuring process at this point?
It was so quick. If I look back, I was very much concentrated to create new collections each time. It is already three years ago.

So you think the company is in a good place?
Yeah.

Are you concerned at all about Integral selling the company, possibly to someone you don’t like?
I don’t care. If I stop designing, this company loses value. It becomes nothing.

So do you think you will continue designing for many more years?
I have no idea about retiring life. Should I live in the countryside, fishing or planting vegetables, playing with dogs? I can’t imagine it. It must be so boring.

Instead you’d rather continue to think about designing?
Yes. My ideal feeling is that I suddenly fall down during making clothing.

What do you think about the current political tensions between Japan and China?
I was born as a son of war, so in my heart, the war didn’t ever finish…[when I think about Japanese aggression during the war] I go sinking in the deep darkness.…Right after the Second [World] War, [Germany acknowledged its remorse to the Jewish people]. It was an apology. So Germany did it, but Japan didn’t do anything. We lost a chance to apologize.

Do you think the situation will ever change?
I think there are two ways of dealing with each other. One way is economic collaboration. Without this collaboration, Japan and China cannot go forward. The other side is very political. When China has an interior problem, like a problem between rich people and poor people, then they’ve got a big problem, they start shouting anti-Japan. It’s very political, to calm people down.

So it’s basically being used as a distraction?
Yes. We cannot go further without each other. The relationship has become deep already.

Are these problems having an impact on your business and that of other Japanese designers in China?
Not yet. For a very, very long time, China has been a [manufacturing center] for world brands, but now China has become a big market for big brands. So China has both powers.

Do you think future generations of Japanese leaders could make a more serious apology?
I don’t know. But the most clear situation in Japan is we are losing real leadership. We have no courage.…They should be more educated. At least a leader of [a country] in the modern world, they should speak English because English is the world language.

So they aren’t international enough?
No.

Going back to fashion, there really haven’t been any Japanese designers recently who have made it in a big way internationally, at least at the level of yourself, Rei Kawakubo or Issey Miyake. Why do you think that is?
In the Japanese market, department stores, they don’t give young designers space, and the specialty stores, they don’t buy young designers’ merchandise. Naturally, young designers don’t have space to sell in the world, so they cannot grow up. [Even when they get orders] they cannot get paid. They have no power to push [retailers] to pay back, so young designers have to have sort of a selling machine, a system. Sometimes I think to myself, Maybe [my company] can help young designers by using this company’s machine system, logistics and power.

Would you like to do more of that in the future, helping young designers?
Yes, I’m thinking about it.

What was different for you when you were starting out as a designer?
Japanese young designers’ creation has become like stylists’ creation. I don’t feel envy.…It’s luck of the power of creativity, because they graduate from design university, fashion university, art university. They get nourished about very academic creativity, but they don’t have creativity from here [gestures to his heart]…soulful.

And you think that is a particular issue with the Japanese designers?
No, not only Japanese. Everybody. We are losing those young people because we have too much information by media, especially [through computers]. We can see everything at the same time, so already they are spoiled too much. So when we have talk sessions with young designers or students, I tell them: “Be bright. Your eyes have become dirty.”

post #2819 of 5710
i saw this interview and thought about posting...thanks for putting this up dante....

being chinese, yohji's comments have always been refreshing regarding the relationship (often strained) between the chinese and japanese. certainly given his age and as he put it, "a son of war", i appreciate that as usual, he's not afraid to go against the grain of what many of his peers often tip toe around or avoid discussing altogether.

i'm not sure if this has been debated yet, but i wonder how often as consumers we consider the morals or values of those creating the product in which we consume.

given his comments and the money he's put into helping chinese fashion students/programs, i feel like my money is being well spent...

just my two cents
post #2820 of 5710
Thread Starter 
Thanks for posting the interview dante.

Will comment a bit more on MyMindSpray's point about feeling better giviñg a designer whose ideas and philosophy you agree with. I do feel very good about supporting Yohji by buying his stuff primarily because I agree with him on a lot of things.

I am away from home (in my hometown actually) until tomorrow so for now I am stuck with extremely choppy Internet on my iPad, but from the thumbnails the Yohji Spring 2013 collection for women looks like another winner to me.

Check it out here if you haven't seen it yet - http://www.fashionologie.com/Yohji-Yamamoto-Spring-2013-Runway-25208604

One of our regulars on here was able to make it to the show! I will leave him to make a post about it and give us his impressions biggrin.gif.
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