by Carolina Amaris
The guitar strains of Swedish-Argentine folksinger José González opened Yohji Yamamoto men's collection. And if you think about it, modern folk isn't far removed from the designer's urban-nomad aesthetic. Scruffy models resembling vintage sepia-toned photos one might see in Daniel Boone's scrapbook were the first to come out, wrapped in oversized man blankets. Double-breasted coats with gold buttons and embroidered appliqués added the finishing touch to our dapper pioneers.
With a musical shift from folk to classical piano came men in silk scarves, tied as ascots and tucked into tailcoats, honoring the romanticism of a composer. And it wouldn't be Yamamoto without his signature black suits. Here they appeared with asymmetrical detailing or a colored topstitch. Their heavy fabrics—tweed, wool, mohair—balanced out the delicacy of pajama-style suits in a beautiful shade of wine. At that point Yamamoto emerged to take a bow with his army of models in full adoration.
I had to look up Jose Gonzalez. I'm always curious to know what music designers choose for their shows since music can create an attitude and color the visuals so much. Jose Gonzalez - Heartbeats(Click to show) Edited by Parker - 1/19/12 at 10:15pm
Fabric's so nice. It's a linen/silk/cotton blend. All Yohji apart from the T-shirt which is Ann D.
Finally received some Yohji stuff that I got off wire.artist over on SZ among which was this awesome suit from SS2009. It was look 1 and while it was worn oversized there, I am wearing a size 3 instead of my usual 4, hence why it is not as slouchy a fit on me. I still like the way it looks though. The fabric is a linen/silk/cotton blend that has a great texture and moves really well. The hand of it is difficult to explain for me, but I guess it feels like the fabric blend it is. Like silky linen
Was pretty excited and had to wear it out today. Hehe.
Will take some full on item shots of the pants tomorrow or something and just add it to this post if anyone's interested.
Yeah the shoes are Yohji as well. They have a nice detail as well. The leather from the back of the shoe covers the sides and back of the heel. It's a subtle detail but one that gives me pleasure knowing its there. Hehe.
Yohji has quite a few collections with proportions and fits like this actually. If you have a look through AW04 (loads of great pants there), SS08, AW07 (argh this season has so many amazing items!), SS07 there are loads of great blazers and pants in a similar mold. The issue of course as always is finding them. They never disappoint once you get them though
Ah sorry, SZ is another forum - Stylezeitgeist. And yeah, if you look on the first post there's a list of online retailers and some suggestions for auction sites. eBay is a good bet of course and even more so is Yahoo Japan Auctions. It's tougher to navigate unless you speak Japanese, but google translate does a good enough job. Stylezeitgeist's Men's Classifieds section always turns up a few Yohji items every now and then and so does the marketplace on superfuture as well.
Will definitely keep an eye out and post good finds in here or via PM if I see a piece in particular that you (or anyone else for that matter) are interested in. So just post in here if you're hunting something and I'm sure people won't mind letting you know if they come across it - unless they want the same thing too of course .
This is a great thread and certainly one that resonates with me. I've been a big fan of Yohji's work for quite some time but have never been able to find anything that 'fit' me. In the past, the few items that were offered seemed really big. I get that Yohji is meant to be worn loose and baggy but there's a point where I feel like the clothes are wearing you and not the other way around. I thought for sure I would be able to find some items in the flagship store in Tokyo this summer but still nothing.
I pm'd the original poster asking for sizing advice as reading through this thread and other posts elsewhere didn't really shed any light on what size I should be looking for. Keep in mind that I had access to very few items in store vs online. You take a big risk buying online when you are not familiar with the designer's sizing. At the end, what I took away from the discussion was to just go with what you feel comfortable in. Disregard the fact that I 'should be a size 3' so if a size1 fits better, just go with that.
I ended up purchasing 4 pieces from the FW11 collection - 3 in size 3 and 1 in size 1 - pants, white shirt, herringbone jacket and black wool asymmetric closure jacket. I was drawn to the herringbone since I saw it 4 months ago. It's not the blazer version so I think most people find it a hard piece to incorporate in their wardrobes. But it's great to break up a black wardrobe. I love color but it's hard to find. As others have pointed out, it's not a heavy jacket by any means. I'm happy with what I purchased (even better when you get it for a huge discount) and what I believe is a good starting point for my Yohji pieces.
I also tried on 3 of knits that were still available - oatmeal cardigan, black big rib cardigan and the greenish hooded knit. I resisted even though I love knits and have too many sitting in my dressers. His knits are big but not uncomfortably so. It really is like wearing your 'grandfather's' sweaters - just big and comfy.
Picked this up for cheap on Ebay. Guy was apparently a model and picked it up at a fashion show and used it for photo shoots. Maybe I can make it work and eventually put a complete Yohji outfit together...Need a dragon jacket. Bad.
Damn, seeing this in motion and hearing the music made me like it even more. Loved some of the surprise details shown behind the clothes. The collarless assymetric jacket with the button in the center looked excellent and so did the elbow details on a few of the coats.
Great stuff. The visual theme of "crossroads" was also very well done I feel. The idea that the archetypal Yohji man is forever restless yet bound to things like cities, towns and villages (as most crossroads tend to lead to at some point) and is all sorts of people - martial, romantic, a bit of a scoundrel, young, old - never quite in sync with the rest of his environment, but never alien to it either, is something that appeals to me deep down and it comes across so well in his clothing.
sshum do make sure to post pics of your stuff once it arrives .
Nice buy Caveat saw that belt as well and thought it would look nice too.
imageWIS I have only really seen Y-3 stuff in pictures and have handled a single pair of shoes from the X-anniversary stuff. Might pick up a pair or two that look interesting from the SS12 drop.
AW04 shawl collar coat. Didn't wear it out, but wanted to play dress up take a pic for archival/sharing purposes before heading out -
It's a very nice 100% wool gabardine and feels lighter than it actually is once worn. The drape is excellent. No buttons so it must be worn open and it has two slits near the shawl lapel that can be used to access trouser pockets. The positioning of the pocket slits also accentuates the shawl collar in a great way so it looks even better with hands in pockets while walking. It's not that warm and is more suited to spring or fall I think. Can't wait to have a chance to wear it out.