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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 155

post #2311 of 5717
Thread Starter 
Really like this Parker, very simple, but also very cool too. Imagining you in motion makes it even better. That's a great shirt.

@cupper I think I remember someone saying that they had a Y's piece that was made from wool gabardine and that they couldn't tell the difference. May not be the same fabric, but if it is close enough it is all good smile.gif. Hopefully david or someone else can chime in with an actual experience though.
post #2312 of 5717
Gotta like this Parker, pretty much what I've been wearing from time to time recently. I have this super big AW94 rayon shirt in a washed out black, works perfect as a light summer "jacket", like you are wearing yours. Size M but seriously big, sleeves goes past my fingertips, hehe.
post #2313 of 5717
thx guyz. yeah, it's fun to wear a giant shirt. super easy-breezy. I think this is also a size M -- more smock than shirt. ;-)
post #2314 of 5717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

kind of a plain fit today. I counted 30 total buttons btween pants and shirt!
prkr807.jpg
Ys rayon/wool loose weave navy camp shirt
YYPH SS09 "sailor" pants with lots of buttons and double pockets front and back
Engineered Garments "old sport" tropical wool mechanics cap
AA tee and canvas Supergas

Very good, effortless fit as always worship.gif I may have the same SS09 pants that you described. Are there rolls of buttons below belt loops all round, buttoned fly and front and back look almost identical? Also they are hilariously wide-waisted, or I have my wires crossed completely? 

 

Since you mentioned buttons, the most buttons I know for a shirt so far is the AW05 shirt-knit hybrid, about 56 buttons in total. For pants perhaps the winner goes to SS08 Look 2 cotton cargo pants, 87 buttons in total. I will post a fit in due course mwink[1].gif

post #2315 of 5717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Interesting that you say that, not just because I agree, but he also dedicated about 2 and a half pages in "My Dear Bomb" to buttons and their placement on garments. I have that chapter all typed out somewhere...was planning on posting on my tumblr but never got around to it.
EDIT - Warning: Stream of consciousness - sometimes contradictory - rambling on buttons, rapture, design without buttons, and danger in fashion (Click to show)
There is a perfect point, a point of rapture. In the world of fashion, there is the ideal point for even a button. One dons a jacket and buttons it. The relative weight of the jacket gathers at precisely that point. It is at that instant that the garment comes to life and the button has fulfilled its destiny.
The life or death of a garment depends on finding the point of rapture for that button. A garment may have three buttons, or six, but it is the location of that single button that is the key. The other buttons are but useful foot soliders.
If the location is the right one, the body of the jacket will slide slightly to the sides when the button is undone. The garment changes depending on what is done with that button. While each garment is different, the general rule is to place the button at the hollow of the solar plexus. That is the point of rapture.
A thriller will often include a scene in which somebody undoes the button of their jacket as they draw their pistol from underneath. The button serves as the point at which an individual's determination is revealed. That one button, that single point, determines whether or not one breaks through to the other side.
When the buttons are clumsily placed, a garment loses all its impact. There are advantages to experimenting with the functions of a button as long as one keeps the fundamentals in mind, but even here playing too loosely and casually with the button will appear as a trite little game to even a novice. The more professional one becomes, the less one wants to use buttons. Taken to the extreme, one works for a garment that closes in the front even without the aid of buttons. That is truly good design.
It is better not to dye the buttons to match the color of the garment. This is not an issue when using white or black, but the different materials used for garments and buttons will result ultimately in hues that do not match. Round buttons are the easiest to use. Other shapes have a story to tell, they will exaggerate the button's function as a point on the garment. One should choose the size of the button - thin and subtle ones or buttons with some bulk, depending on the circumstances. The relationship between the garment and the button is something like that between the shoe and the shoelace.
Buttons and fasteners have different roles to play. While a button will pull together the power of the fabric, fix it in place, and also release it, the fastener interrupts the flow of a garment. Used properly, a fastener can express a sense of modernism; if it is too concrete, it makes the garment crass.
In creating a silhouette, buttons are essentially unnecessary. When the fabric has some elasticity, however, the silhouette changes with the undoing of each and every button. It is sometimes possible to shape the silhouette through the placement of buttons.
Undoing buttons may reduce a garment to nothing more than a piece of cloth, and that would be the heigh of irresponsibility. Such garments are dangerous for those who wear them.
A feeling of safety and security leads soon to boredom. What has driven fashion through the ages is, at bottom, the way it plays with danger. To have something that hints at danger, something that confounds the conventional understanding of sexy: such wild and untamed elements are what make a garment alluring. Pushing beyond this to transcend the dangerous leads to nonsense, childishness, absurdity. And next comes white heat, a state of unconsciousness.

very inspirational smile.gif
post #2316 of 5717

700

 

another pic of YY in Hakama Pants.

 

 

700

 

Came across this, are these very old YY x Adidas Stan Smith, or something new?

post #2317 of 5717
It would be fun to hear that talk, I wonder if it was recorded and uploaded somewhere... Considering Matsuoka is present I'm there are lots of interesting reflections on... hakamas? Tying it to the previous discussion on MDB, I remember quite liking his part at the end.
post #2318 of 5717

forgive my ignorance, but are those the pants that samurai/jujitsu masters wear?  my soke wore those style all the time, but im not sure if theyre identical.  

post #2319 of 5717
Thread Starter 
Those are indeed hakama pants. Samurai used to wear them and Aikido and Kendo practitioners wear them too. Don't think they are worn in other martial arts though.

Random fact: Yohji is also the chairman of the Karatenomichi World Federation.

Yohji quote on The Mystery of the Body (Click to show)
The Mystery of the Body

We pursue truth through the repetition of fundamental techniques (Kihon).
However, there is something more we can see over and above the most furious repetition; this is the enormous power that lies beyond this pursuit of truth.
This power encompasses an exchange between the spirit and the body.
In other words, it is a fusion that- in an instant- surpasses knowledge.
This moment is something that exists in the real world. If we may call it so, it is the power of youth that keeps on chasing miracles, the most complicated mystery of our youthful bodies.
The youth of those who practice Karate understands no limitation.
post #2320 of 5717
Matsuoka Seigo wearing classic Yohji, down to the creepers:

yohji_yamamoto_1011_AW_13_thumb_autox700_25356.jpg
post #2321 of 5717
Thread Starter 
Just received the wide Yohji pants from LN-CC. They are very nice!

Cotton has a very dry hand and is thin, but not slubby/soft. Will wrinkle pretty easily from my estimation, but not in a bad way I think. Pockets are deep as is expected and the right pocket has a smaller coin pocket inside. A size 3 fit perfectly. Exactly like on the model on LN-CC's product page actually. Will post some pictures later on today.

Very pleased with them!
post #2322 of 5717

that's great fit parker, as iwvri said, the motion of the shirt must me really nice. you can see the transparency of the fabric from the photo, i can imagine how the air go through it. the only think that i would change if it was me wearing this would be the shoes or the t-shirt. if it was with black t-shirt would be stronger and opposite, black shoes and white t-shirt. 

post #2323 of 5717
Thread Starter 
Pics of the pants as promised along with a quick photo to try them on. Don't mind the flip flops, lounging around the house waiting for a delivery of furniture biggrin.gif.

Code for the pants is HD-P30-011-2. Looks like they are not the same as the pants in look 15 which are P07. Anyway...








Fit pics (Click to show)

post #2324 of 5717

Nice pants, so they are AW pants? Or good for summer as well? The LN-CC fit pics have the Engineer Boots, those will be your next buy lol.

post #2325 of 5717
Thread Starter 
Lol, I did have my eye on the boots to be honest - but only if they hit sales. The brown ones probably as I already have quite a few black shoes and boots.

The pants work very well for summer (they breathe very well and are of course cropped so I find them very comfy here). Would have to be worn with leggings or something underneath to work for a winter I think.

What I actually wore today -





Yang Li MA-1 bomber jacket (54% viscose, 30% virgin fleece wool, 12% wool mohair 4% elastan), SS05 YYPH T-shirt (HY-T11-073) 100% cotton, AW04 YYPH pants (HJ-P37-014) 100% cotton, Ann Demeulemeester creepers.

Think I have worn both YY pieces here before so not much else to add. Pants are awesome as always (thanks again wire) and the zipper is such a cool little detail that people notice out of the corner of their eyes.

Was originally thinking about replicating the full on AW04 look with boots, but the weather got much hotter all of a sudden and put me out of the mood for anything past my ankle beyond socks lol8[1].gif.
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