Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 143

Thanks Cupper. Just thought if this is good enough for Yohji-San, it's good enough for us mere mortals What I haven't mentioned was the superb construction, it's tailored like a proper blazer, with 2 inside pockets on one side and a buttoned flap inside pocket on the other. Therefore there are quite a few layers near the chest, plus the small armholes, for this wearer's chunky top half That's why I'm so fond of yesteryear's Yohji ( stuck in a time warp ), a size 3 that is small on me just never enters the equation for older stuff......

Just thought that's the way I'm gonna do it, the best in reverse order. However what one regards as an absolute gem could be someone's trash ( hope not ). It's all in spreading the Yohji vibe
Edited by davidlee388 - 7/21/12 at 9:37am

a/w 05 blazer with leather closure. 50k yen - http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f112310526 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very nice Look 5 from AW05 ( one of my favorite collections, if not the most favorite, love the cut, constructions, fabrics, the lot ) Have you won it?

Edit:- the auction was gone last night when I checked, now it's back on....shame it is a 3 ( dcbank's usual size in its inventory ) or it'll be mine...even at 50k ( it's NEW ). Someone should take the plunge.....
Dcbank has the matching pants as well...get the whole suit, rare opportunity
http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f117760867


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/22/12 at 3:24am

I'm a bit late on this, but thank you very much! Helpful to my search.

I'm looking for black yohji pants, size 48 or equivalent. Basically looking for a pant that tapers at the knee to a small leg opening (like7.5" or less). A drop crotch or wideleg pant with narrow Jen is ideal. Anyone got a pair to sell? I bought a pair on farfetch only for them to cancel my purchase as it had sold out....

Best source for Yohji's runway photos I've found yet, starting from A/W 1996:

 

http://firstview.com/collection.php?p=0&id=0&b=date&o=ASC&s_d=1696&s_y=0&s_s=0&s_p=0&s_g=&s_n=0&s_t=0&s_l=&m=list

Edited by valter - 7/23/12 at 7:02am

Yes, that is correct. Especially it has shots on the back of models which are important for all things YY. Previously it was subscription only for most seasons, now it seems it's all free from about a month ago. However some seasons are not listed and bizarrely YYPH SS07 is listed as Y's Yohji Yamamoto. 

 

The 2nd best source is dantebykiko of course 

Any experience with yohjis "fine jersey" cotton jackets? Or ramie jackets? Do they hold up well or look cheap quickly. I don't know the last time I wore jersey...

Well maybe the experts can chime in, but are you referring the fine jersey cotton to the 010 cotton of SS12? If it is then the fabric is delicate but at the same time great to handle and wear, perfect summer fabric. Any clothes will become trashy if not looked after properly, but a few small tears and holes here and there add to the charm as some will say.

 

I have a AW09 Y's ramie blend blazer, it has a matt looking, dry hand finish. I certainly won't call it cheap looking rather than vintage looking as Yohji clothes are intended.

i dont have any jackets but ss12 jersey trousers and they are fine until now. i wore them about 10 times. i have 1 ramie shirt. its about 6 years old and i wore it a lot.

still look new. i have no doubt that a jacket wont look good. but if you buy online be careful because all the jersey jackets of ss12 i tried on were pretty slim fited. so  unfortunately they did not fit me.

Edited by esox - 7/23/12 at 11:05am

I've tried on a few of the jersey shirts from SS12, so if it's the same jersey as those I can offer some insight. The material is very soft and substantial but not heavy—thicker than a tshirt but thinner than a sweatshirt. In true Yohji fashion, it looked like it had already been worn in. The shirts I tried were black, but they looked like they'd faded from repeated washings, and all the lines looked soft rather than crisp. They really looked like they had been worn for years, but in a good way. The fabric hung very casually, and I imagine the jacket would have a great drape and movement. I loved the shirts I tried but ultimately decided the price was a little too high for me, otherwise I would've grabbed them.

while we are still on aw05. today i won wrap knit with buttons from this collection. i'm sure it will be big part of my outfits during the winter and not only. looks like there are hundreds of ways of wearing it. so exciting. 

 

 

 

 

 

few runway photos. (Click to show)

 

little dissapointment as well. i was bidding on this 1983 hand-painted show invitation. sadly i was on my phone and could't bid properly and lost. i already was seeing it on my wall framed :( next time i guess.

 

 

Congrats on your knit wrap win! I'm happy every time someone gets something from AW05. Also learn something too, I thought the knit is part of the shirt knit hybrid, like this Look 20 iteration that Wire.Artist passed on to me, don't know it can be purchased separately. 

Anyway, enjoy 

 

 

Top Five Piece - well this is another Joint Fourth, this is number 4 perhaps not in a particular piece kind of way but collectively as a Look/set-up. In fact now I feel this is better than the Yohji Uniform posted earlier ( letting emotions get in the way  ). Sorry I haven't figured out the Spoiler insertion yet :(

 

 

 

YYPH AW04 Look 43 Zipper Blazer ( HJ-J15-100 )

YYPH AW04 Look 43 Zipper Pants ( HJ-P12-100 )

Y's x Dr Martens AW08 10 Eyelet Boots ( ME-E53-752 )

 

The blazer is 100% wool gab, notch lapels, classic Yohji flat-centred raised rimmed buttons, 3B closure, fully lined, buttoned non-working sleeves ( err...read on ), left chest pocket, 2 bottom flapped pockets. 2 side vents. Signature 100 soft hand gab, sz 2 generous, dropped shouldered, long Yohji fit I'm so fond of. Unassuming looking at the front. The genius lies at the back where a 32" curved metal double YKK zip is constructed between the right side vent and the sleeve end. This allows the zip to be fully closed, the double zippers to meet near armhole to open both side and sleeve, or anywhere in between, changing the silhouette playfully. Stupendous construction.

 

The pants are sz 3 ( OS fits all? ) same excellent wool gab, high waisted, the waist is adjustable by 2 buttons each side folding the fabric secured with a zip closure. Non-pleated front, 2 back pockets, the hems are turned-up per se. The playfulness again comes from the back where there are two 8" zippers from the hems, allowing the legs to be opened. The hems cover my ankles so I turn them up twice to reveal a surprised buttoned tab inside each leg ( which becomes the outside ) that holds the fold in a cropped manner. Lovely fit.

 

The Y's boots were derived from the Dr Marten 1490 boots. Yellow stitched Air Wair soles, very supple matt finished leather, 10 eyelet lace closure. The Y's twists are the full length inside zips, triple diagonal stitching on the narrower than usual toe boxes. They go so well with most YY. Size 2 ( UK sz 7 )

 

The Zipper Series was on the AW04 " Madness " section of the Runway. Thanks to the scarcity of online images and poor pic quality, it's difficult to work out the seven ( the number of band members? ) or so iterations of the pieces ( maybe dantebykiko can help ). The blazer and pants I won from a Y! auction as a whole set-up. Perhaps because the auction pic quality was so poor and description was not detailed, it's an absolute sleeper and I was the only bidder to win at a ridiculously low starting bid. Thought the condition was suspect but they turned out to be in pristine condition unexpectedly. The Y's boots I purchased absurdly cheap from a very reasonable SuFu seller in Paris, brand new with tags still looped through the zip pull. Whilst the individual pieces are not my top five choices ( I do wear them individually ), the whole is so much greater than its parts. The Look just epitomizes what Yohji clothes to me are all about in general. The blackness, the oversizeness, the fabrics ( the side shot is an attempt to show how well the fabric drapes ), the simplistic yet intricate construction, the fun and the whole nonchalant vibe. This is a story of I-got-a-bargain and a great set-up imo.

 

Oh the shirt is a black LS cotton H&M x CDG and the belt CDG H+. 

Edited by davidlee388 - 7/23/12 at 4:23pm

hi. wondering if anyone has yohji's 'This is My Dream' movie downloaded that they can share? can see it online but would like to download and keep a copy. thanks!