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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 141

post #2101 of 5816
dante that coat is amazing drool.gif

well i got some Y's , the shirt is most likely a keeper, not sure about pants, i haven't had cargo pants since i was 14 or something redface.gif

yGuzn.jpgezlCw.jpg
MY-B27-0099-1 (Click to show)

label
iz8aE.jpg

collar
imi5q.jpg

buttons
GMVp2.jpg

surprise! there's a shirt pocket as expected, but there's another inside the shirt tongue.gif
SWdJK.jpg
MN-P12-033-2-03 (Click to show)
thick canvasy cotton , way too hot for right now hehe
lv636.jpg
e98pf.jpg
post #2102 of 5816
Brilliant Yohji-san interview by V&A (has it been posted already?)






Yohji Yamamoto: The poet of black

"Yohji Yamamoto reflects on his thirty year career in fashion. In this 20-minute film shot in Yamamoto's Tokyo studio, the designer provides a laconic, engaging and sometimes passionate commentary on his career and design values. He considers how his work has evolved since his Paris debut and explains why he designs so differently for men and women and also provides a withering personal analysis of the current state of the fashion industry."




Kiko that SS06 coat looks awesome. nod[1].gif
Also thanks for the link.
I'm curious about the hakamas and although at the very end of the spectrum: love this look (Click to show)

post #2103 of 5816
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

dante that coat is amazing drool.gif
well i got some Y's , the shirt is most likely a keeper, not sure about pants, i haven't had cargo pants since i was 14 or something redface.gif
yGuzn.jpgezlCw.jpgMY-B27-0099-1 (Click to show)
label
iz8aE.jpg
collar
imi5q.jpg
buttons
GMVp2.jpg
surprise! there's a shirt pocket as expected, but there's another inside the shirt tongue.gif
SWdJK.jpg
MN-P12-033-2-03 (Click to show)
thick canvasy cotton , way too hot for right now hehe
lv636.jpg
e98pf.jpg

Nice! What size are the cargos? If you don't like them, send them my way smile.gif

Your shirt could be reversible....you thought about that?

Edit:- awww didn't see the codes at first, so sz 3 for the pants right? The shirt has a strange fabric code, 4 digits?
post #2104 of 5816
Hello good sirs. I recently came into possession of a YY trench coat. It's quite nice and very well-appointed, but I'm mostly unfamiliar with Yohji's stuff. I was wondering if you could help shed any light on this jacket - e.g. is it recent, etc. Here's some pictures:

yy11.jpg?w=370&h=
yy2.jpg?w=370&h=
post #2105 of 5816
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupper View Post

Brilliant Yohji-san interview by V&A (has it been posted already?) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Yohji Yamamoto: The poet of black
"Yohji Yamamoto reflects on his thirty year career in fashion. In this 20-minute film shot in Yamamoto's Tokyo studio, the designer provides a laconic, engaging and sometimes passionate commentary on his career and design values. He considers how his work has evolved since his Paris debut and explains why he designs so differently for men and women and also provides a withering personal analysis of the current state of the fashion industry."
Kiko that SS06 coat looks awesome. nod[1].gif
Also thanks for the link.
I'm curious about the hakamas and although at the very end of the spectrum: love this look (Click to show)


I could have sworn someone posted that video earlier in the thread, must have missed it when I was compiling stuff for the video list. Thanks for posting it again anyway, will use yours for the OP smile.gif. Very good interview too.

Shah, that's a nice look.

K, that sweater looks really nice. How does it feel to the touch? It's paint right? Really like that fit with the bomber and the boots. Wish the photo was clearer, but the silhouette is excellent. I think I might have to get a Yohji bomber now, lol. Very simple, but the shape is excellent.

Thought I would put up some trailers and clips from movies that Yohji was credited as costume designer for. So, we get some Kitano and Tilda Swinton this time. I wonder whether it is because of Takeshi Kitano's Yakuza films that one can so readily associated Yohji's suits with gangsters (both Yakuza and juvenile). Or is it the louche, rebellious feeling his baggy suits somehow manage to capture that attracts that sort of person to clothing that looks like or is indeed his.

First, Teknolust. Never heard about this film before I checked out IMDB, but it has Tilda Swinton so it is automatically on my "to watch" list. The fact that it seems to be cyberpunk in that gloriously bad Hackers way is also a plus.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Next up is Takeshis'. I missed all the films in the so-called "Takeshi trilogy", but I will get around to watching them at some point. Despite negative reviews, they strike me as being pretty personal films and that kind of stuff tends to have something of value to me especially when coming from someone with as much talent as Kitano. I think Kitano is one of the earliest collaborators with Yohji on celluloid and even in his older films, one could swear he was already wearing Yohji even if Yohji wasn't handling the costuming directly.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Long clip from Brother also by Kitano. Pretty big spoiler in this one so if you plan to watch it I would skip.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Clip from Kitano's Dolls.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Bonus: Trailer for Sonatine. Yohji is not credited as costume designer for this, but damn did it look like his clothing in the film.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #2106 of 5816
Thread Starter 
Joyce interview with Yohji posted by david a while back. It has been uploaded to YouTube now so can be embedded.

post #2107 of 5816
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by horse's_ass View Post

Hello good sirs. I recently came into possession of a YY trench coat. It's quite nice and very well-appointed, but I'm mostly unfamiliar with Yohji's stuff. I was wondering if you could help shed any light on this jacket - e.g. is it recent, etc. Here's some pictures: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
yy11.jpg?w=370&h=
yy2.jpg?w=370&h=

Hm, never seen this label before today, but from what I have been able to dig up on rakuten and some other places looks like the line was late 80s. Not sure how long it was used for though. Hopefully someone else with a bit more knowledge will chime in at some point.
post #2108 of 5816
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post


Hm, never seen this label before today, but from what I have been able to dig up on rakuten and some other places looks like the line was late 80s. Not sure how long it was used for though. Hopefully someone else with a bit more knowledge will chime in at some point.

This is the kind of techno fabric raincoat you are after Ivwri biggrin.gif I have no idea of its era, Asobu can help.  Italian sizing is a bit preculiar....although I have some YYPH in the early 90s and a AW02 knit which were made in Italy.


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/20/12 at 12:59am
post #2109 of 5816
I've seen this label on an other long black coat. Parka style, with waist strings and hood. Very nice and simple piece, I assume its "collection" for rain/wind proof garments as the fabric its technical.

Iwvri - I have received the jumper yet but will let you know as soon as I do. Regards the bomber, don't rush. I'm sure something nice will pop-up at yahoo.
post #2110 of 5816

AW12 on Y! already!

 

http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w76775815

 

http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r92007320

post #2111 of 5816
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

The tab closure for the lapels IS present on a SS12 linen blazer I tried on in Conduit Street.

Yeah, I mean, he's used many variations of buttoning and closures over the years of course, but this particular detail and construction is pretty much exactly the same and I find it interesting that it came straight after the mainline version, not separated by a decade. This kind of linearity in design over the lines is interesting, the same as across women's and men's mainline (aw04 is just one example, has happened plenty of times). Another example on the top of my head is the suspender pants for Y's (women's) in aw08, very similar in detail and shape to the YYPH ss08 suspender pants...

Anyway, I thought it was interesting that he has now officially conceded all involvement in the brand Y's. I can understand and expect that he's not personally involved in endeavours like Coming Soon and s'yte as those are merely side lines to capture another market share through the spirit of YY Inc or whatever, but Y's is his first line, established almost 10 years prior to his first Paris show under his own name. This years is the 40th anniversary and now he's giving it up, it's now only a studio effort.

Adding to this, I didn't actually think he was that much involved lately to be honest, and looking at the latest Y's collections, they haven't really been that good, have they? The men's line wasn't very good even back in 08/09 looking at the whole lookbook even if it offered some nice enough pieces.

Now. Y's pre-06... that's some good shit
Edited by asobu - 7/20/12 at 3:41am
post #2112 of 5816
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

Adding to this, I didn't think he was that involved to be honest, and looking at the latest Y's collections, they haven't really been that good lately, have they? The men's line wasn't very good even back in 08/09 looking at the whole lookbook even if it offered some nice enough pieces.
 

Y's nowadays are always better on the racks, the Lookbooks had been a bit dismal of late though. The fabrics have lots of silk blends for the SS12, nice to handle in person. But the popularity has dropped ( even my wife who used to be a big Y's fan now buys more Limi Feu ). In Hong Kong Joyce Boutique which has been a long time sole retailer virtually gave up the franchise to I.T. and as a results lots of unsold pieces from seasons gone can be found in Joyce Warehouse at bargain prices. 

 

Personally I think Y's mens line had been good up to its demise after AW09. AW09 Y's had lots of stupendous pieces, with prices to match :(

 

For me I prefer YYPH to Y's  because of the cut/silhouette rather than the inferiority in construction ( there's a difference but so were the prices )


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/20/12 at 5:43am
post #2113 of 5816
The shah, what sandals are you wearing? Are those Ann d? Sorry this is tangential...
post #2114 of 5816
ok, back up: comma comma on ebay has some cool stuff for sale. smile.gif
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 7/20/12 at 9:32am
post #2115 of 5816

A couple of pictures of aw12, from the marui shinjuku store:

 

700

 

700

 

700

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