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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 133

post #1981 of 5587

Some photos from Yohji's S/S2013 showroom:

 

http://homactu.com/archives/45570

 

I really hope that the "FOR SALE" jacket will be on sale! I'd buy it instantly!

post #1982 of 5587
inlove.gif so many lovely pics from all these collections !


jellyfish-ish? (Click to show)
M1ItE.gif
post #1983 of 5587
beautifull collections!! drool.gif

I'd seen SS04 and loved it but those photos make it even better.
AW 2001 is absolutely stunning only had seen a couple of pictures.
And then AW2000, AW98 overload lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Well, I did ask for people to put up their top three pieces in their wardrobes and maybe grail pieces as well. We could always expand it to five devil.gif.
I am working on taking pictures of all of mine and so will probably post over the weekend. Been a bit busy this week. Think I have sorted out the pieces I like the most so far anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

I haven't forgotten Ivwri, it's good to expand to Top Five. I will do it in reverse order as a build up to the most favorite piece haha.


thanks Ivwri and David for taking the time to do this
also thanks to all you guys that have been contributing worship.gif
post #1984 of 5587
I'm not sure if this is what Ivwri and cupper had in mind, but I picked my fave 5 collections for each season a chose a representative look for each. This is just based on runway photos, since I only have direct experience with a handful of actual Yohji garments. These looks aren't really "grails" but I think there's something in each that I identify with.

Top 5 Autumn/Winter Looks/Collections (Click to show)
AW 2001
I like the whole French 30s gangster feeling: the extra wide lapels, chunky fabrics, floppy newsboy hats. This suit looks a bit short on the runway, but those lapels are awesome and it's made up in a shantung silk or something swanky and luxe. I already have a DB suit but it's not nearly this cool.

467

AW 2007
Love 07. Maybe my favorite AW collection. Sorta "tailored punk". Boots, overcoats, the kooky sweaters. Look 1 was awesome, but I picked this solid black look without the Fair Isle style pattern. Cool details on this coat: double lapel, asymmetrical buttons, nice shoulder line. I like the narrow trouser with strap buckle Docs and simple crewneck. All basic elements but still undeniably Yohji.

480

AW 2005
Great mix of materials throughout. This charcoal flannel oversized suit with peak lapels and some kind of apron sash thing is just boss. I don't really know what to make of it, but I like it. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the shirt. Is that exposed midriff??

480

AW 2004
Maybe not a great collection overall, but I generally like Teddy Boy (mods-n-rockers) inspired looks: creepers, stovepipe pants, yellow satin bomber, reversible green/tan overcoat. You could wear each of those items a little differently, too.

360

AW 2009
The reversible suits were totally unique, but I'd probably wear this simple workwear-style jacket more often. Did it come as a suit or are those pants in a different material? This would be like my ultimate utilitarian suit for Just Doing Stuff. The sneakers and tee are good styling choices. The walking-to-the-market-in-your-pajamas look added as an extra bonus.

525
525

Top 5 Spring/Summer Looks/Collections (Click to show)
SS 2005
Tropical harem pants! Yeah! plus a tan linen (?) jacket and white sneakers. What's not to like? Also, straw hats, big cuffed jeans, super size blazers, cargo pants. Was this collection the same or in conjunction with Ys?

480

SS 2008
I like the military/anti-war concept in this collection even if it's a little too overt. The square pocket jackets and pants and cargos were all pretty great. This ramie block blazer and huge raver pants with stash pockets is kind of a highlight for me. Add gauzy sweater and baller sneakers, bam!. Ivwri scored this suit and I might have to, too. I've already got the pants :-) sidenote: I'm starting to think that I like all the looks with red-headed models.

480

SS 2008
Another look from 08. I think Ivwri has these pants as well. They're like military jodhpurs with built in suspenders? some kind of straps and laced calves. I don't know what they are, but I like them. I also really like the color combo: olive, khaki and navy (and that Bows1 red hair). I think this is one of those looks where you could wear each item in very different way.

480

SS 2012
This is the look that got me hooked on Yohji (well, this and that iconic super baggy suit from SS 2000). I like the blend of the flowy and the military throughout this collection. It also gives me a slight nautical impression, which is close to my heart. I have the pants, shoes and a tailor-made shirt that's similar. Maybe one day I'll find the jacket to complete the whole Look. I didn't see it available to buy anywhere this season.

525

SS1997
Well, I didn't see this whole collection, just the photos asobu posted in his epic vintage post. Generally, relaxed suits, tropical prints, bright colored flowy pants. Not unlike SS 2013 come to think of it. Though the advancement of these ideas is on a whole other level now. Anway, this light gray 3-piece rumpled suit on the right is my last pick. Probably the most "traditional" looking suit I've seen Yohji do, but the slouchy fabric and barefooted slip-ons really make it for me. Doesn't hurt that the guy looks like he's a bon vivant boss.

258

That's it!
post #1985 of 5587

asobu..... did it again.. ps: did you get my pm?

post #1986 of 5587

Hey Parker, like your choices! Maybe I can share some info with the pieces you chose....

 

AW07 Look 8YYPH AW07 knit insert blazer.jpegYYPH AW07 knit insert blazer II.jpeg

The first section of AW07 was the knit insert series where knit panel(s) were married with gabardine to create a unique look. Those pieces are highly sought after in Y! auctions and generally regarded as grail pieces ( I want one myself ) Here's the Look 8 you picked in detail, crazy constructions. They are generally cut big. Wire ( his name keeps popping up, the Master lol ) used to have Look 1 and 2. 

 

AW05 Look 15

YYPH AW05 shirt knit hybrid.jpeg

 

Well this is not Look 15 but Look 20 to illustrate your shirt query. A lot of shirts used on the Runway were kinda shirt knit hybrids, Look 20 shirt knit ( again Wire had it, now mine lol ) Cotton top half with buttoned ( detachable ) wool knit panel and collar and cuff inserts as well allowing different silhouettes. Absolutely incredible construction. I think ( but not sure ) Look 15 shirt is an iteration but worn with the knit panel detached as apron. 

 

Finally that AW09 Look 3 you picked is very likely  reversible as well and available as a suit ( again I think Wire had it ).

post #1987 of 5587

This is not a Top 3 or 5, just something I wore last night

YYPH SS06 Zipper Blazer.jpgYYPH SS06 Zipper Blazer Fabric.jpg

 

YYPH SS06 Look 9 Zipper Blazer ( HR-J51-005 ) 100% cotton, 4 metal button closure, bottom 4 buttons non-functional. Cutaway style but long and boxy cut which I like. 3 buttoned cuffs. Small back vent. Trick roundhouse curved double plastic zips on shoulders ( a tailoring feat ) allowing different looks. 2 short double zips ( unseen ) under armpits for ventilation? Totally unlined because of the zippers. 

 

YYPH SS06 pants ( HR-P14-005 ) . Same fabric, metal button on closure and back pocket so they are part of a suit ( even though it's not styled like that on Runway ) Size 2 runs very big. 

 

A black SS Tee, CDG H+ belt and some cheap imac nubuck sneakers to finish off


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/14/12 at 1:13am
post #1988 of 5587
I love those looks from aw2005. It would be great to find some of it. Actually, the most frustrating thing about discovering Yohji recently is finding old pieces you love and knowing you may never find them (and if you do, they're auctions and you can't handle them first).

Tried a few things today, including a ss12 coat and then a blazer I couldn't identify at a consignment store. The blazer looked great, even though it was a 3 and I think I need a 2. The coat was too oversized for me, even though it was a 2. Going to search for a pic of that blazer though. The cut was really great.
Edited by pickpackpockpuck - 7/14/12 at 4:38am
post #1989 of 5587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

I'm not sure if this is what Ivwri and cupper had in mind, but I picked my fave 5 collections for each season a chose a representative look for each. This is just based on runway photos, since I only have direct experience with a handful of actual Yohji garments. These looks aren't really "grails" but I think there's something in each that I identify with.

Top 5 Autumn/Winter Looks/Collections (Click to show)
AW 2001
I like the whole French 30s gangster feeling: the extra wide lapels, chunky fabrics, floppy newsboy hats. This suit looks a bit short on the runway, but those lapels are awesome and it's made up in a shantung silk or something swanky and luxe. I already have a DB suit but it's not nearly this cool.
467
AW 2007
Love 07. Maybe my favorite AW collection. Sorta "tailored punk". Boots, overcoats, the kooky sweaters. Look 1 was awesome, but I picked this solid black look without the Fair Isle style pattern. Cool details on this coat: double lapel, asymmetrical buttons, nice shoulder line. I like the narrow trouser with strap buckle Docs and simple crewneck. All basic elements but still undeniably Yohji.
480
AW 2005
Great mix of materials throughout. This charcoal flannel oversized suit with peak lapels and some kind of apron sash thing is just boss. I don't really know what to make of it, but I like it. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the shirt. Is that exposed midriff??
480
AW 2004
Maybe not a great collection overall, but I generally like Teddy Boy (mods-n-rockers) inspired looks: creepers, stovepipe pants, yellow satin bomber, reversible green/tan overcoat. You could wear each of those items a little differently, too.
360
AW 2009
The reversible suits were totally unique, but I'd probably wear this simple workwear-style jacket more often. Did it come as a suit or are those pants in a different material? This would be like my ultimate utilitarian suit for Just Doing Stuff. The sneakers and tee are good styling choices. The walking-to-the-market-in-your-pajamas look added as an extra bonus.
525
525

Top 5 Spring/Summer Looks/Collections (Click to show)
SS 2005
Tropical harem pants! Yeah! plus a tan linen (?) jacket and white sneakers. What's not to like? Also, straw hats, big cuffed jeans, super size blazers, cargo pants. Was this collection the same or in conjunction with Ys?
480
SS 2008
I like the military/anti-war concept in this collection even if it's a little too overt. The square pocket jackets and pants and cargos were all pretty great. This ramie block blazer and huge raver pants with stash pockets is kind of a highlight for me. Add gauzy sweater and baller sneakers, bam!. Ivwri scored this suit and I might have to, too. I've already got the pants :-) sidenote: I'm starting to think that I like all the looks with red-headed models.
480
SS 2008
Another look from 08. I think Ivwri has these pants as well. They're like military jodhpurs with built in suspenders? some kind of straps and laced calves. I don't know what they are, but I like them. I also really like the color combo: olive, khaki and navy (and that Bows1 red hair). I think this is one of those looks where you could wear each item in very different way.
480
SS 2012
This is the look that got me hooked on Yohji (well, this and that iconic super baggy suit from SS 2000). I like the blend of the flowy and the military throughout this collection. It also gives me a slight nautical impression, which is close to my heart. I have the pants, shoes and a tailor-made shirt that's similar. Maybe one day I'll find the jacket to complete the whole Look. I didn't see it available to buy anywhere this season.
525
SS1997
Well, I didn't see this whole collection, just the photos asobu posted in his epic vintage post. Generally, relaxed suits, tropical prints, bright colored flowy pants. Not unlike SS 2013 come to think of it. Though the advancement of these ideas is on a whole other level now. Anway, this light gray 3-piece rumpled suit on the right is my last pick. Probably the most "traditional" looking suit I've seen Yohji do, but the slouchy fabric and barefooted slip-ons really make it for me. Doesn't hurt that the guy looks like he's a bon vivant boss.
258
That's it!

Parker great to see your choices and thoughts about those collections and looks!
In that 2nd SS08 pic are those green boots? I've been thinking about getting dark green shoes, I wonder how versatile could they be.
Really love all the looks you've chosen and that all white SS97 look is pretty cool too!

interesting to see the impact of SS12, pickpackpockpuck also made a similar comment a few pages back, stunning collection! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #1990 of 5587
David that shirt knit hybrid is crazy!
Also great look, I was able to get a new pair of SS06 pants in that same fabric.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I love those looks from aw2005. It would be great to find some of it. Actually, the most frustrating thing about discovering Yohji recently is finding old pieces you love and knowing you may never find them (and if you do, they're auctions and you can't handle them first).

In my case not only that but I'll probably see them go out of my reach rotflmao.gif
post #1991 of 5587
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I love those looks from aw2005. It would be great to find some of it. Actually, the most frustrating thing about discovering Yohji recently is finding old pieces you love and knowing you may never find them (and if you do, they're auctions and you can't handle them first).
Tried a few things today, including a ss12 coat and then a blazer I couldn't identify at a consignment store. The blazer looked great, even though it was a 3 and I think I need a 2. The coat was too oversized for me, even though it was a 2. Going to search for a pic of that blazer though. The cut was really great.

Talking of AW05, this looks like the shirt on Look 34:-

 

http://page21.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/j189349481     ( is that right Asobu? )

 

Post the picture of that blazer if you can find it. Embrace the oversized fit rotflmao.gif

post #1992 of 5587
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupper View Post

David that shirt knit hybrid is crazy!
Also great look, I was able to get a new pair of SS06 pants in that same fabric.
 

Thanks for the comment. There are so many details that Runway pictures fail to reveal sometimes. No comparison to actually owning and wearing the stuff :)

 

Yeah that AW05 shirt knit is crazy indeed ( I always say Yohji doesn't make stuff like these anymore ). Last time I counted there are 26 buttons on it. Here is a better picture. I'm sure Wire Artist won't mind me being his PR manager posting his pic ( ROCKING it with the AW07 Look 2 knit coat )

YYPH AW05 shirt knit II.jpegYYPH AW05 shirt knit III.jpeg

post #1993 of 5587

speaking of s/s 06. 

 

few close-ups (Click to show)

YAMA_MW_SS06_257.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_258.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_175.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_207.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_287.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_289.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_307.jpeg

YAMA_MW_SS06_338.jpegYAMA_MW_SS06_348.jpeg

post #1994 of 5587
Thread Starter 
Never seen those pictures before Dante, thanks for posting. That first jacket is really cool. Love all those pouches at the back.

Now that Arche mentioned that the slashing of jackets in order to show cloth underneath is an actual historical reference, it really stands out in his work and emphasizes even more that Yohji really pulls a lot of inspiration from the past. The way he modernists them is really excellent. It would be nice to see a return to when men were expected to put a lot more effort into their dressing and even to stand out a bit as opposed to the more staid and conservative dressing that is the norm right now.

Thanks for all the posts with the various seasons asobu and Dante, really great to see all of that in better quality pics and that SS04 collection looks even better than I imagined.

It makes it even worse that so many of these pieces are no longer available to browse even and we are left with these pictures and some video to try and understand what it is all about. I guess it still works though. Like Yohji said, he doesn't dwell on the past much so maybe neither should we...bloody hard though. Lol.

Thought I was traveling tomorrow, but couldn't get a flight till Wednesday so I have time to do my top pieces with photos and everything smile.gif. Hopefully it will be interesting for people to see.
post #1995 of 5587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Never seen those pictures before Dante, thanks for posting. That first jacket is really cool. Love all those pouches at the back.
Now that Arche mentioned that the slashing of jackets in order to show cloth underneath is an actual historical reference, it really stands out in his work and emphasizes even more that Yohji really pulls a lot of inspiration from the past. The way he modernists them is really excellent. It would be nice to see a return to when men were expected to put a lot more effort into their dressing and even to stand out a bit as opposed to the more staid and conservative dressing that is the norm right now.
Thanks for all the posts with the various seasons asobu and Dante, really great to see all of that in better quality pics and that SS04 collection looks even better than I imagined.
It makes it even worse that so many of these pieces are no longer available to browse even and we are left with these pictures and some video to try and understand what it is all about. I guess it still works though. Like Yohji said, he doesn't dwell on the past much so maybe neither should we...bloody hard though. Lol.
Thought I was traveling tomorrow, but couldn't get a flight till Wednesday so I have time to do my top pieces with photos and everything smile.gif. Hopefully it will be interesting for people to see.

Ivwri, if you look closely, the first picture is actually a vest worn cleverly over a jacket would you believe....someone is selling that vest right now at a premium price.

Kiko thanks for the back shots of SS06, my Top Five piece is among them haha.

Finally we are waiting eagerly for Top Five from the Curator of this thread lol.
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