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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 128

post #1906 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post


Yeah, I remember seeing those green polos. Got shocked at first glance but after rethinking it, I came to same conclusion as you. I don't mind when designer doing logos as long as they can back it up with unique pieces next to the clean logo products. Helmut Lang its good example I believe.
Off the topic, I would like to share that I'll be proud owner of the ss2011 floral jacket posted earlier. Can't wait to receive it! If anyone spot the trousers, please let me know. I missed pair few months ago on Rakuten. Gutted now.

Can't wait to see a fit pic worship2.gif

post #1907 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

On a random note, how often do you guys take your stuff to the dry cleaners and/or hand wash (for stuff like shirts)?

Would like to know this as well. Also do you ever hand wash something (for ex.100% cotton) that says dry clean only?
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

I am not talking about finding a garment like this in a Yohji Store in London, Paris or Tokyo where most of the collection can be seen. The fact is Hervia Bazaar probably will only stock about 15 pcs of AW11 YYPH and its buyer felt the need to select this on the rack to attract label conscious customers. If there are 2 identical sweaters on the rack, one with a logo, one without, I know which one I'll choose.

+1
Also from what I've read here and elsewhere isn't Yohji san supposed to be out of the "fashion world", like an outsider doing his thing?
Something like this from SS93 I can appreciate (although I wouldn't buy), logos no thanks.

262
post #1908 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

On a random note, how often do you guys take your stuff to the dry cleaners and/or hand wash (for stuff like shirts)?

I try not to take anything to get dry cleaned unless it's totally necessary since it's a pretty harsh process on your clothes and some cleaners can really mangle the shape of jackets. I just give my pants and jackets a good brushing after I wear them and air them out before going back in the closet. For stuff like shirts and tees, I'll machine wash on delicate and hang dry. Since I'm a recent convert to Yohji I've yet to deal with some of the more complicated garments like the pleated hakamas. I've just been brushing and hanging for now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

I was wondering what everyone's top three YY pieces in their wardrobe are. Inspired by the Contentedness thread elsewhere on the forum and a PM from kiko, I was curious to see what pieces people would bring up and whether there were any interesting stories behind them as well or funny/odd encounters you have had while wearing them. Pictures of the items in question (either fit pic or just the item itself) would be great too. I'll start in a bit if no one does, but want to get pics for mine first. We could also do an addendum with top three "grail"/most wanted pieces too.

I haven't really had time to decide, but so far the most exciting to me are the black wool pleated hakamas and the cover pants. just for the sheer joy of wearing them. (the floating jellyfish effect). I've had a few "cool karate pants" comments but no good stories yet. ;-)
post #1909 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post


I try not to take anything to get dry cleaned unless it's totally necessary since it's a pretty harsh process on your clothes and some cleaners can really mangle the shape of jackets. I just give my pants and jackets a good brushing after I wear them and air them out before going back in the closet. For stuff like shirts and tees, I'll machine wash on delicate and hang dry. Since I'm a recent convert to Yohji I've yet to deal with some of the more complicated garments like the pleated hakamas. I've just been brushing and hanging for now.
I haven't really had time to decide, but so far the most exciting to me are the black wool pleated hakamas and the cover pants. just for the sheer joy of wearing them. (the floating jellyfish effect). I've had a few "cool karate pants" comments but no good stories yet. ;-)

I only discovered this thread lately but I thought you are a long-time loyalist from the way you talk and wear Yohji :)

post #1910 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by cupper View Post

Would like to know this as well. Also do you ever hand wash something (for ex.100% cotton) that says dry clean only?
+1
Also from what I've read here and elsewhere isn't Yohji san supposed to be out of the "fashion world", like an outsider doing his thing?
Something like this from SS93 I can appreciate (although I wouldn't buy), logos no thanks.
262

Yohji its right in the middle of the fashion world. 6 runways shows every year with 4-5 stores around the globe. Yohji its outsider of c-licence fashion world (perfumes etc).

Also I don't see problem if buyer wants to buy logo product from brand as Yohji. Works for all side: yohji's, buyer's and customer. If someone who likes logos buy Yohji basic t-shirt and its satisfy with the product he might take a risk to buy jacket or pants etc.
post #1911 of 5928
Thread Starter 
Yeah I agree with kiko 100%. I don't like having logos either, but they won't limit my enjoyment of a piece and if some buyers feel that they need some logo products in order for them to take a chance on stocking Yohji at all, then more power to them. I am happy as long as Yohji stays in business and more retailers take a chance on his clothing and stock up. They may also serve as a gateway drug like kiko said. It is always easier to buy into a brand you already know the name of after all, even if the pieces are way different.

Great pickup on that floral jacket kiko, will definitely keep an eye open for the pants for you. Waiting on a fit pic as well icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Speaking of small logos though, the SS00 high waist pants I have have a small red tag on the edge of the back pocket (or is it the side seam) with Yohji's signature on it. Was a weird detail since I had never seen it before on any of my previous pieces, but made no difference to me in the end, the pants are awesome.

As for laundry, I am trying to do more brushing and less dry cleaning lately. Used to send off my stuff for dry cleaning at the slightest provocation. Good thing though is that wool gabardine seems to be pretty hard-wearing so all those items have no difference from when I first got them. Some cotton items are showing some wear from the cleaning though and that's what prompted me to even ask the question in the first place. I don't mind that much though as the wear and tear of age is part and parcel of the Yohji vibe, but no need to actually "wreck" the clothing if one doesn't have to.

I have done hand washing on some tees that are dry clean only and they turned out fine, but I don't have many items that are dry clean only anyway so maybe someone else could chip in an opinion.

Not Yohji related, but I finally received a pair of black linen pants that I had my tailor make based on the standard cropped drop-crotch Rick Owens ones and wore it out today with Yohji stuff, works very well with it I think. Will put up a picture later on.
post #1912 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post


As for laundry, I am trying to do more brushing and less dry cleaning lately. Used to send off my stuff for dry cleaning at the slightest provocation. Good thing though is that wool gabardine seems to be pretty hard-wearing so all those items have no difference from when I first got them. Some cotton items are showing some wear from the cleaning though and that's what prompted me to even ask the question in the first place. I don't mind that much though as the wear and tear of age is part and parcel of the Yohji vibe, but no need to actually "wreck" the clothing if one doesn't have to.
I have done hand washing on some tees that are dry clean only and they turned out fine, but I don't have many items that are dry clean only anyway so maybe someone else could chip in an opinion.
 

i have a lot of just dry cleaning items and i wash them all. (except jackets and suits of course) but there is no guarantee that it will survive but only one item does not in all the years.

it was a 100% cotton shirt with wrinkles. the wrinkles went away and the fabric becomes brittle after washing a view times.

 

but for all stuff is important wash gentle and cold or max 30 degrees and if you use a washing machine without or very little spinning (hope this is the right word for it) after washing.

post #1913 of 5928
Regarding logos, I recently saw this on ebay.

Front view (looks good):
523

But then the collar frown.gif
234

And regarding dry cleaning, Parker is right, it's a very harsh process. Unless it's a "green" dry cleaner, they soak the clothing in a chemical, usually tetrachloroethylene or perchloroethylene (nothing dry about it, actually), that is fairly corrosive and toxic. I avoid it whenever I can. Anything that's just cotton, assuming it isn't treated in some way, can probably just be hand washed and hung to dry. (Another thing worth noting is that putting clothes in a dryer is also very harsh and should be avoided). Something like a jacket is more complicated obviously. Good cleaners put it on a model form and steam and brush it. If I remember right, the care tag on a Siki Im jacket I saw suggested just hanging it in the bathroom and letting it steam like that. Unless you actually spill or drop something on the jacket, it's probably pretty clean and doesn't need to be dry cleaned. CAVEAT: I'm not an expert on any of this stuff, just read a bunch about it at one point when a "green" dry cleaner opened near me and told me what dry cleaning actually is.
post #1914 of 5928
well i just took my Y's and cdgh+ to the dry cleaners since i had been travelling with them for some while and sitting in trains and planes and metros etc. so figured it could do with a cleaning. the place is supposed to be "revolutionary all natural wet cleaning chemical free 100% non toxic" (uh oh) so here's hoping...but since the Y's is ramie i figured I shouldn't expose it to too much moisture. the rei was boiled polyester so should be more resilient ...

as for random stories, i was in the Y's and hakamas and tee walking through the Portobella Market (sup londoners) and this japanese guy stopped me to ask, hey is that a Dries jacket? I said no jacket and hakamas are Yohji both he and his girl were surprised and said in wow in unison laugh.gif
ok story sucked but at least i told a stranger about it...then my cousin who was with me became very curious, why were they so enthralled by the yohji ? I said you have much to learn, elder cousin ............................
post #1915 of 5928
px4: that detail was on many of the aw08 pieces, it's removable as far as I know? On several jackets as well. From the

photo_mid_def_2267139.jpg

He's used his name and signature on many pieces, in many ways, over his career. I'm on my phone now so i cant be bothered to post photo examples but: For instance, look at the signature use in AW07 on many of the knit panel jackets, on ss08 he did several patches with his name, ss07 had the "yohji yamamoto 100%" tees, ss02 used his embroidered signature on the signature (lol) actress pieces, all of ss00 had that name tag that Ivwri mentioned, or the industrial branding style from the ss93 example above. But yeah, those examples are all more "fun" variations, the size and placement of the logo on the aw12 sweater makes this more in the traditional branding way, I guess. Still, like several of you have already said, when he keeps putting out amazing collections, I don't mind if a few of the basics are logo'ed. They've done that on many y's for men tees in the past as well. I guess I agree with Ivwri and kiko on this

Parker, dude, that fit is so good. Love this silhouette with top button buttoned and the wide hakama pants
post #1916 of 5928
yeah, I'd looked at that collection and noticed the collar. was wondering if it was removable but wasn't entirely sure. hmm...

logos don't bother me too much as long as it's a fairly small embellishment. yohji isn't very guilty of this in general.
post #1917 of 5928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Yeah I agree with kiko 100%. I don't like having logos either, but they won't limit my enjoyment of a piece and if some buyers feel that they need some logo products in order for them to take a chance on stocking Yohji at all, then more power to them. I am happy as long as Yohji stays in business and more retailers take a chance on his clothing and stock up. They may also serve as a gateway drug like kiko said. It is always easier to buy into a brand you already know the name of after all, even if the pieces are way different.
Great pickup on that floral jacket kiko, will definitely keep an eye open for the pants for you. Waiting on a fit pic as well icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Speaking of small logos though, the SS00 high waist pants I have have a small red tag on the edge of the back pocket (or is it the side seam) with Yohji's signature on it. Was a weird detail since I had never seen it before on any of my previous pieces, but made no difference to me in the end, the pants are awesome.
As for laundry, I am trying to do more brushing and less dry cleaning lately. Used to send off my stuff for dry cleaning at the slightest provocation. Good thing though is that wool gabardine seems to be pretty hard-wearing so all those items have no difference from when I first got them. Some cotton items are showing some wear from the cleaning though and that's what prompted me to even ask the question in the first place. I don't mind that much though as the wear and tear of age is part and parcel of the Yohji vibe, but no need to actually "wreck" the clothing if one doesn't have to.
I have done hand washing on some tees that are dry clean only and they turned out fine, but I don't have many items that are dry clean only anyway so maybe someone else could chip in an opinion.
Not Yohji related, but I finally received a pair of black linen pants that I had my tailor make based on the standard cropped drop-crotch Rick Owens ones and wore it out today with Yohji stuff, works very well with it I think. Will put up a picture later on.

You are right Ivwri and kiko, having logos won't limit the enjoyment as long as there is an intended meaning to them as far as I'm concerned e.g. a message. I simply won't buy a piece with a logo like the one I mentioned, that's my personal taste.  Because I think Yohji clothes excel in their meticulous choice of fabrics, constructions and also practicality/functionality and thought provoking. A prominent logo meets none of those and therefore reduntant and that I'm afraid isn't what his clothes stand for to me as a long time admirer of his work. The fact that YY produces a piece like this ( and many more from what I saw in Conduit Street in June )  is probably resulted from market research that some people DO want things like this from YY as a business ( i.e. fashionable trend ) It saddens me cos Yohji is " anti-fashion " to me, no?

 

I put that item up here originally because it's from Hervia Bazaar, my " local " retailer ( an hour drive from my house ) whose buys from the past seasons since SS2010 used to be small but pretty focused and desirable. Some key Runway pieces they stocked were sometimes not even available in Conduit Street ( AW10 4.1 The Men tartan cape coat, SS11 Look 37 detachable collar blazer, AW11 Look 14 cherry knit and pants, AW11 Look 17 brown contrast lapel coat, AW11 Look 18 blue hooded cardigan, AW11 Look 19 shirt/jacket hybrid & pants SS12 Look 42 hooded shirt, SS12 Look 43 black cubism and SS12 Look 44 black gab IV collar blazer spring to mind ). It's always nice to go there, browse, handle, try on, and occasionally buy some great pieces. I am just disappointed Hervia Bazaar will go down the more mainstream way with their Yohji buy. Well one less piece to consider I suppose. 

 

A small un-noticeable logo on your SS00 pants Ivwri is a big difference to a big one on the chest. Of course someone more critical than me will probably be put off by that also! 

 

I am gonna rest this discussion once and for all.


Edited by davidlee388 - 7/11/12 at 11:18am
post #1918 of 5928
Yeah, I like those leather branding. I had photos on my tumblr of pet shop boys wearing them for pop magazine editorial.

dantebykiko.tumblr.com/

Can't find it because I'm on my phone.. No self tumblr promoting biggrin.gif
post #1919 of 5928
Thread Starter 
Lol, yeah probably best to move on as it is definitely more of a personal thing I think for most people. We can all agree though that as long as Yohji is putting out badass collections that we will all be satisfied though which at the end of the day is what is keeping us buying his stuff.

I actually like that leather collar band. Not sure if I would wear any of the items like that, but it is cool to me that they even exist. David I didn't know you were so close to Hervia or that they had been buying Yohji for a couple of years now. That's pretty cool. I wish I had a boutique nearby that stocks Yohji, even if What I did mostly was walk in to discuss with the SAs and the store owner(s). Having people to gush about the clothing to while handling it can make all the difference, hehe.

Shah, Portobello used to be one of the places I enjoyed walking down in London. Great area. Did you do any thrifting?

On a completely unrelated note my wife and I just found out that we are going to have a girl! I am so excited hence me posting it on here even though it has no real bearing on the conversation, so I beg for your indulgence, hehe. Unfortunately this means that now I have to ramp up the YY Femme buying (and making sure my wife picks up stuff as well) as I would like my future daughter to have a good selection of Yohji whenever she is ready to inherit it from her parents. Wouldn't mind her taking some of my stuff either happy.gif. Five more months to go!

EDIT - I think I actually posted that image of the Pet shop Boys from your tumblr on here a while back kiko (I hope I credited you then too shog[1].gif)
post #1920 of 5928
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the congrats guys biggrin.gif.

So, my fit today.


548

498
Extras (Click to show)
695

695


Wearing SS12 cotton collarless jacket with AW11 cotton shirt, cropped linen drop crotch pants (based on Rick ones, I just altered the measurements a tad for more freedom of movement) and Comme des Garcons sneakers. I am happy with the way the back of the outfit turned out with the pleating of the jacket allowing the tail of the shirt to peek through more than usual which then provided a nice break in color before the drop crotch itself. The bag is by Ute Ploier (picked it up from the Suspension Point sale).
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