Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 124

 

 

one jacket is here to find. if someone is interested. :-)

 

http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h162681873

saw that couple of days ago. will pass, i'm aiming for printed trousers.

if my ann d floral trousers fit more like yohji they'd be the perfect trouser, damn it.

Yeah this has been on for at least a couple of months now, not sure why no one's picking it up. It's not my size, otherwise I might've. Love this pattern, I'm still after the shorts from L1. Wouldn't mind the suit either, and this cut would work better for me than the db I think.


That's a good description, hehe. I know exactly what you mean... I think


Makes sense to me that he wanted to go more conceptual after the (terrific) best-of of aw10. He did the psychedelic prints for women's ss11. Speaking of non-daring/"wearable" collections, man, aw10 was soo damn good on the racks despite being less adventurous. I'd be set for life with that collection in my closet.

"cool" people won't agree with you about aw10....

 

AW10 is definitely cool. I remember visiting Conduit Street after the SS10 sale when the store received a special delivery of the pieces from the 4.1 The Men show before the main AW10 collection arrived later. The long coat, the " warrior jacket " ( that's what it's called by Conduit ) worn in the middle of the show when the men doing the poses, the Silk Chinese ( Japanese? ) traditional uniform worn by the old man, the camouflage blazers were all there. In size 3....none of them fitted me...gutted....they were all gone within weeks . A lot of the non-runway/non studio presentation stuff seen in the shop are seldom in auctions either.

I have a huge soft spot for florals. Really want those trousers from Look 3 (although I'm still curious about the Ann FW08 hydrangea trousers).

My brother is also a Yohji fan, so I thought I'd throw in a fit pic I took of him today.





(side view of pocket arrangement with the trousers laid flat)

The longsleeve t-shirt is SS11, made from 075 cotton. It feels incredibly soft, with a texture kinda like fleece, but it is really lightweight. Bit weird that he has a FW11 longsleeve using the same 075 cotton, but that feels completely different - a heavy t-shirt material that is soft, but not as soft as this one. The trousers are SS12, made from 017 cotton. The SA at the Conduit store described the material as being like shirting cotton, and that's pretty much the most accurate description I can think of. The material falls really nicely, and the trousers are cut quite wide in the waist, with double pleats and a slight taper. Cardigan is just a lambswool from Uniqlo, and the shoes are Spring Courts.

while still on a/w09 talks. tesco finest shopping with my h&m long robe, yyph short jacket with gathering on the back, y's a/w 2003 wool trousers and docs.

 

Not to bring this up again (well... hehe) but are you sure it's the same cotton? Fabric codes are definitely not season cross-over. Trousers sound interesting, is the fabric delicate? They look really good bunched up across the waist like that, nice cut. Good simple fit overall!

^ In which case ignore what I said! I was wondering how the cotton was so different despite being the same code. Makes sense now that I think about it And the trousers don't feel that delicate at all actually, they feel like a substantial shirt (well obviously not the same as an oxford or broad cloth, but pretty solid all the same). Creases easily but I can't imagine getting holes in them would be that easy!

Well Asobu, whether these codes are relevant across seasons, it's still interesting to archive them ( Ivwri's the man! ) and note how serious Yohji is in choosing fabrics for his clothes. There is a fabric I came across with ONE % polyurethane in it ( a SS09 pant, 010 ), what that tiniest % of that material does to a fabric, maybe someone has a textile background can explain, but it's fascinating all the same.

To further cause controversy, the SS07 Look 2 suit has different rayon/ramie blend codes ( same season ) for the blazer and pants ( 224 & 203 respectively ) but the exact same composition. Maybe to do with the different thickness. Perhaps syed had a point...

You are making this thread at the top of Google search Ivwri, if there's an Oscar for dedication to appraise Yohji's work, you've won it

Hehe, well, I don't want to get into a debate about this but my comment this time wasn't related to whether it's not worth archiving them or not, I just wanted to bring up that I don't think those cotton fabrics (despite both being 100% I assume) would be the same even though they share the same composition. However, like Ivwri also confirmed, it's good to know this so you guys can detail the season when archiving these codes since they can vary - as you already made clear in this post, as 010 for instance is used for different fabrics in several seasons.

another short video of the SS13 show. a few different looks than the marie-claire version. and I was wrong, there were hats. they just all turned up at the end. :-)