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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 110

post #1636 of 5922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Really great post asobu. The whole thing is getting me a bit misty eyed to be honest. Really like how intimate it all feels. Those white shirts with the red ribbons attached are beautiful, would love to get my hands on one.
Really excited for tomorrow's collection. Trying to keep my expectations in check, but it's been a lot of work to do so happy.gif.
In continued happy news, picked up my SS08 suit from the cleaners and now that there is no longer any tobacco smell to bother me, I have tried it on. I feel like a banchou (Japanese high school gangster) haha.
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Detail shots (Click to show)
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Fabric is great. Not thick at all (even kind of see-through in the right light), but because of the way the shoulders are constructed it sits with a nice permanence when worn. Not flimsy at all. There are patches on the lapels, elbows and cuffs of the jacket made from the same material. The trousers are really nice as well. They have drawstrings at the cuff allowing for tightening of the opening but use of a belt is recommended for the waist as there's no drawstring there. I am not wearing them with a belt in the pics, but I will normally. They also don't have side pockets as I hope was shown in the photos, with the rear and front/side pockets almost meeting at the side seam of the pants. Instead there are large cargo pockets on the front that can be opened with a button. Behind those are where the pockets are. This is a similar design to that on the SS09 suit pants (look 2) and a big part of why I really like these pants. Combined with the volume and fabric, it really gives off this badass nonchalant vibe when I stuff my hands in them. On a side note, I find that with a lot of Yohji's clothing there are in-jokes scattered all over the place. Text where almost no one would see it, hidden pockets, hidden double collars, his name written upside down or reversed etc. A casual observer would never notice any of these things, but because you know they are there it can make you smile sometimes. These pockets are like that for me with these pants. Anyway, I guess you can tell I am extremely happy with the purchase (thanks again for pointing it out to me wire!).
I also got my SS08 zipper cargo pants back and those are very nice as well. Love how the zipper alters the silhouette of the pants (most especially from the side). It shows the genius of Yohji when he does things like this as essentially the zippers perform the same function as the buttons on the ronin pants from this same collection, but the pockets are placed differently and the zips are placed in front in order to achieve the same silhouette from the side that the buttons (which are placed on the side in the ronin pants) achieve in the other pants, slimming the lower part of the leg and having the cargo pouches enhance the area above the knee, making it look like literal ronin pants or calvary pants tucked in to high boots. Great stuff icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Great stuff you have there and they fit you really well fistbump.gif Is the suit on the runway? SS08 was a stupendous collection, the pants especially were breathtakingly constructed yet very functional and practical. You need to post the fabric codes lol ( or you have done it already elsewhere? ) I have the Look 2 pants in black cotton, the construction is crazy. The runway showed the pants at the narrowest setting at the shin part I think. There is a  long roll of buttons on each side of the leg to adjust the width, plus buttons on cargo pockets, belt loops, back pockets and closure buttons. In total 87 buttons! The cotton is the softest type imaginable. The fabric combined with those buttons allow different silhouettes to be achieved. I have mine in sz 3, need a belt to wear, got them at a bargain price of circa 11k yen. Since then I have seen a sz 2 on Y!, someone should snap them up, in fact anything from SS08 really lol.

post #1637 of 5922
omg. SS99 and that 08 suit on one page! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

The 99 show was so sweet. The couples concept is just so lovely. Actual emotion and sincerity seems so rare in fashion. At least that's what I read into it. Plus I love that it's mostly a suit collection. Lots of great, casual oversized suits in many colors... and floral prints :-). I love the girls wearing suits, too.

Look 38 (Click to show)
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Ivwri, that suit is truly bad-ass. Thanks for the detailed photos. It looks great on you. You know that one's on my grail list. The fabric is cool, right?
post #1638 of 5922
Thread Starter 
david, Parker already submitted the code for the pants so all I had to do was update the actual fabric composition since his pants are a sample item and lack fabric tags biggrin.gif. The code is HM - P18 - 328 for the pants and HM - J19 - 328 for the jacket. SS08 was indeed an amazing collection with all kinds of cool things going on with the clothing.

The fabric is indeed very cool. I will definitely keep an eye out for the jacket for you so you can also complete your set. It is a worthy grail nod[1].gif
post #1639 of 5922

sorry for the multiple post but it gave me error messages after posting.

is it possible to delete it?

cant find a delete button.

post #1640 of 5922
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the detail shots esox. You can't delete posts unfortunately, but you can edit them. So probably just edit out all the content from all but one of your posts and that should be okay.
post #1641 of 5922

put some shoes ivwri! i like the whole gangsta vibe and those drug dealer pockets lookaround.gif reposting my new suit this time in "motion".

 

photo111.JPGphoto2222.JPG

post #1642 of 5922
Inasmuch as it is unlikely that I would be wearing Yohji anytime in the near future, I would just like to say that I truly enjoy reading this thread.

Not Yohji, but enjoying the looser fit (Click to show)
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Edited by zissou - 6/27/12 at 4:06pm
post #1643 of 5922
those pockets icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif. that is all.
post #1644 of 5922

I've been admiring all the amazing Yohji finds people have been posting for a while, especially Ivwri, who seems to have an endless supply of fantastic stuff in his closet; but, so far, I haven't been able to start my own collection. As someone who, until recently, was a full time student, there's definitely no way I can purchase Yohji at retail prices, so, like some others here, I have to rely on finding things second-hand. Anyway, I've just bought this lovely YYPH jacket. It should arrive in a few days, so I'll post some more pics when I can try it on. This is my first mainline Yohji item, so I wanted to get something that would be fairly versatile, and this strikes a nice balance in that it's a simple dark jacket, while it also has the interesting detail of the white panels that continue around the back of the collar. Not sure exactly which collection its from yet, but apparently mid to early 90's.

 

 

YYPHJacket.jpeg

post #1645 of 5922

thats a nice jacket arche! well done! :-)


Edited by esox - 6/28/12 at 12:59am
post #1646 of 5922
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Really great post asobu. The whole thing is getting me a bit misty eyed to be honest. Really like how intimate it all feels. Those white shirts with the red ribbons attached are beautiful, would love to get my hands on one.
Really excited for tomorrow's collection. Trying to keep my expectations in check, but it's been a lot of work to do so happy.gif.
In continued happy news, picked up my SS08 suit from the cleaners and now that there is no longer any tobacco smell to bother me, I have tried it on. I feel like a banchou (Japanese high school gangster) haha.
700
700
700 Even more views (Click to show)
553
525
700
Detail shots (Click to show)
197
197
197
197
Fabric is great. Not thick at all (even kind of see-through in the right light), but because of the way the shoulders are constructed it sits with a nice permanence when worn. Not flimsy at all. There are patches on the lapels, elbows and cuffs of the jacket made from the same material. The trousers are really nice as well. They have drawstrings at the cuff allowing for tightening of the opening but use of a belt is recommended for the waist as there's no drawstring there. I am not wearing them with a belt in the pics, but I will normally. They also don't have side pockets as I hope was shown in the photos, with the rear and front/side pockets almost meeting at the side seam of the pants. Instead there are large cargo pockets on the front that can be opened with a button. Behind those are where the pockets are. This is a similar design to that on the SS09 suit pants (look 2) and a big part of why I really like these pants. Combined with the volume and fabric, it really gives off this badass nonchalant vibe when I stuff my hands in them. On a side note, I find that with a lot of Yohji's clothing there are in-jokes scattered all over the place. Text where almost no one would see it, hidden pockets, hidden double collars, his name written upside down or reversed etc. A casual observer would never notice any of these things, but because you know they are there it can make you smile sometimes. These pockets are like that for me with these pants. Anyway, I guess you can tell I am extremely happy with the purchase (thanks again for pointing it out to me wire!).
I also got my SS08 zipper cargo pants back and those are very nice as well. Love how the zipper alters the silhouette of the pants (most especially from the side). It shows the genius of Yohji when he does things like this as essentially the zippers perform the same function as the buttons on the ronin pants from this same collection, but the pockets are placed differently and the zips are placed in front in order to achieve the same silhouette from the side that the buttons (which are placed on the side in the ronin pants) achieve in the other pants, slimming the lower part of the leg and having the cargo pouches enhance the area above the knee, making it look like literal ronin pants or calvary pants tucked in to high boots. Great stuff icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

 

 

thats a realy nice suit ivri! looks cool!! where do you find all that beautiful stuff?

 

unfortunately i dont have many yy jackets to share. i am searching for some more classic ones in gaberdine or cotton but did not find any suitable size for me this season.

but if someone is interested i can post some combination of issey miyake jackets with yohji trousers and shirts.

post #1647 of 5922
Thread Starter 
Well, as most of you guys know, Yohji's SS13 showing for men is today. You can live stream the photos on here - http://nowfashion.com/28-06-2012-yohji-yamamoto-menswear-spring-summer-2013-paris-show-2074.html

Arche that's a really nice looking first pick up! I think sourcing Yohji from eBay/Y!/Rakuten/Classifieds etc. is probably the best way to go as you have the whole range of collections he has done as options that can become available hehe. You can also get soem very sweet deals. In a way, I think this is probably more in line with Yohji's philosophy as a designer. He famously said he wanted to "design time" after all, infusing his clothing with about 10 years of age and wear already before they were ever put on the rack for purchase. Picking stuff up used infuses his clothing with this character already and at way more reasonable prices than at retail which again helps with his philosophy of trying to design clothes for everybody as opposed to just a select few.
post #1648 of 5922

I'll be attending today the S/S2013 show + the after-show cocktail party with Yohji Yamamoto himself.

 

I might take some pictures for you at the party if possible.

 

This is damn exciting!

post #1649 of 5922
Thread Starter 
Damn! So envious right now. Very happy for you. Definitely take pics!! If possible one with Yohji himself, hehe.

Wearing SS08 jacket with SS08 zipper pants today. Tshirt is from SS12 and is very nice! The french seam detail is cool and makes for a very interesting standalone tshirt in my opinion. Very nice cotton too. Pants (HM - P01 - 007) are a 75Cotton/17Nylon/6Linen/2Polyurethane blend with cupro lining in some parts and look almost like a ramie blend of some sort. Very dry and soft. Wearing with Ann high tops.


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Edited by Ivwri - 6/28/12 at 3:27am
post #1650 of 5922
^Ivwri, you've posted some great ss08 on this page! these three pieces and especially the two pairs of pants are very cool and sport some signature detailing for this collection. He really did an astonishing variation of great cuts for pants for this season, with the pockets, zipper details, suspender iterations, prints etc. Good write-up too, it's always nice to hear a bit more in detail about the garment and fabric/feel etc

I particularly like this last fit, looks great with that white tee. Good silhouette, interesting details, super wearable and stillquite special.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arche View Post

This is my first mainline Yohji item, so I wanted to get something that would be fairly versatile, and this strikes a nice balance in that it's a simple dark jacket, while it also has the interesting detail of the white panels that continue around the back of the collar. Not sure exactly which collection its from yet, but apparently mid to early 90's.


350x459px-LL-129e2c62_YYPHJacket.jpeg

Very nice jacket. It's from AW89 and it (or an iteration of it) is actually part of those archive pics I posted earlier:

image.jpg

as you can see in the back, there were several types of jackets with this white banding detail on lapel and sleeves etc. Like you said, you'll find it quite versatile and not probably not extremely boxy like some of those older pieces can be. Glad to see you join us!


Quote:
Originally Posted by valter View Post

I'll be attending today the S/S2013 show + the after-show cocktail party with Yohji Yamamoto himself.

I might take some pictures for you at the party if possible.

This is damn exciting!

lucky bastard.... but yeah, happy for you icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
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