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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 108

post #1606 of 4971
6/26/12 at 10:52am
BTW, I hope you guys watched the AW96 show. It's quite stunning imo, up there with the winter shows from 94 and 95. His mid 90's shows are just incredible.
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post #1607 of 4971
6/26/12 at 11:05am
Thread Starter 
Welcome to the forum esox. Glad you decided to post. That Y's jacket looks really nice and the fabric of the shirt looks pretty interesting too. I don't know if you read already, but I am trying to compile a list of fabric codes that people have from their YY pieces and put them all into an easily accesible form for us to be able to use as reference. Of course I will need everyone's help in doing so, hehe. Currently the format I am using is "fabric code -- composition -- some words describing the nature of the fabric and possibly even what piece (or pieces) it was used in." So if you have any (and I am sure you have quite a few) please contribute by sending me a PM on here.

Speaking of which I have created a dropbox folder where I will be storing YY archival stuff like images and docs for things like the fabric codes, season codes and maybe in the future even product codes with pictures of stuff if people want to go that far lol8[1].gif. If you are interested in contributing or simply want access to the files in the folder, send me a PM with your email address and I will add you to the shared folder.

For now though, here's a direct link to the fabric code doc with the submissions so far. I am currently writing out fabric codes from all the pieces I own (and have in the house) and will update as soon as I am done.
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post #1608 of 4971
6/26/12 at 11:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

The pants I got off wire and they are glorious. Such a nice construction for the crotch area giving it a great drop crotch effect when seen from behind that manages to avoid the diaper syndrome a lot of drop crotch pants tend to have. I generally feel Yohji does the best drop crotches in the business, you get the awesome silhouette and proportion play while keeping full freedom of movement.

Just wondering, what's the construction like, or I guess what's unique about it? No big deal if it's a pain to explain. I ask because the pants do look really great without a hint of diaper syndrome satisfied.gif . Damir pants I got definitely work for me, but I would eventually like to find some YY pants. That jacket is terrific as well.

A random observation: I feel like a lot of shows (really most) feel serious and almost dour, but I never get that vibe from Yohji's presentations. There's a kind of undercurrent of joy in them. I think his use of unconventional models (old guys and people without perfect bodies) makes them feel inclusive too. The appeal isn't exclusivity, which is part of the brand image for a lot of luxury labels, but the opposite. It's very welcoming and cheerful, which is also the feeling I get from this thread. biggrin.gif Ok, end of babbling. shog[1].gif
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post #1609 of 4971
6/26/12 at 12:15pm
^ that's one of the things I like best about Yohji. The older shows especially had that diversity as well as sense of humor and joy: the gypsy band, Madness, short guys, fat guys, funny looking guys, athletes, actors, the newspapers and bras stuffed in pockets, etc. Just helps give the already interesting clothing design even more life and character. (of course, I'm preaching to the choir :-)
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post #1610 of 4971
6/26/12 at 12:27pm

finally back from milan.... i've been checking the forum almost everyday but no spare time to contribute. i've took most of my yohji garments with me but it was impossible to put many in use as the weather was extremely hot (35C+). also i found it quite hard to wear yohji in milan as the people really care about fit and how suit fits. it's not like london where most people just put their paul smith etc and trust it fits well. the milan man its really precious about his suit fit and homeless fit doesn't work well in that environment. but mainly the weather was problem for me as i'm missing the summer side in my yohji wardrobe. 

 

anyway, thanks asobu for those amazing photos, haven't got proper time to check all of them. i've received my suit from japan, which it's from a/w 1997, thanks to the photos and the info! HI - P48 - 161 pants, HI - J51 - 161 jacket. Rayon lining with really nice twill texture.

 

bought the suit without really seeing it properly. the photo of it was just on the hanger, shot in really shit light. very happy when i tried it on. the length it's exactly what i needed as i'm missing longer jacket. the hems of the trousers are breaking almost perfectly. i don't think i will wear it buttoned up as it doesn't look as good as opened. got and this y's leather wallet with chain, not fully happy but i will get use to it.

 

photo_mid_def_175609.jpgyohji1.jpg

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

DSC02423.JPGDSC02424.JPGDSC02425.JPGDSC02426.JPG

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post #1611 of 4971
6/26/12 at 12:48pm
Thread Starter 
Wow, that jacket looks great kiko! Would love to get something like that as well. The pants look really nice as well. Like the button detail on the hem. Could you let me know the fabric composition for that 161 fabric? Let me add it to the doc I am working on biggrin.gif. How was Milan? Saw the video of the Missoni show and it looked pretty cool. Any more gossip from that model? devil.gif

Just a note, I will probably be bugging everyone that posts something new in here for fabric codes and compositions so you have all been warned. hehe.

pickpackpockpuck I think someone like dantebykiko would be in a better position to explain the differences as 1. I don't actually own other drop crotch pants from other designers (apart from one Rick pair that's not at home right now) so a proper comparison would be difficult and 2. he actually knows how to sew and construct clothing, hehe. However, from trying stuff on and looking at pictures online, it just seems like Yohji's stuff looks better to my eye. Also agree completely with regards to Yohji shows having a good vibe to them, he really put out his personality with his clothing and his brand in general as he seems to be exactly like that from interviews and so on.
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post #1612 of 4971
6/26/12 at 1:44pm
kiko, that fits you impeccably. Big congrats on getting that, great find.

Looking at the old shows, like you guys I love how he's really mixing models with different body shapes, and seeing some of the older runway shows they just had a different energy, a more relaxed vibe I guess. It seems like he started using regular models and straight forward shows from AW01 and onwards and didn't start using older or different shaped models until SS09 again. I wonder what brought on that change, pretty much every other show since the very first show used non-typical models.


by the way, kiko, that ss94 suit you bought from me is the same as this one on the right:

PK40k.jpg

but this one has a white, almost lace-like, cotton top layer with a black bottom layer to create that same dual/floating layer effect, while your colors would be pretty much reversed.
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post #1613 of 4971
6/26/12 at 1:47pm

yeah, milan was very relaxed. the missoni family it's very sweet and friendly. glad you like the show, it's much more stunning in person and also the knitting it's incredible. berthold was so amazing, such a good model! i hope he gets yohji again. he told me for the last show when they had rehearsals for the walk, that the models wasn't very sure what to do. as you know the runway wasn't straight and had those junctions, so yohji and his assistant had to do the walk for them and do funny things when passing each other. he said that yohji it's very funny and wears white vintage adidas with velcro straps during fittings etc...

 

the fabric of the suit it's laine wool, little bit heavier than classical 100 and the weave it's slightly bigger. 

 

re the drop crotch discussing. i've never been fan of the whole fit and i don't own rick trousers. BUT from what i've seen in dover street, as his pattern it's quite similar to comme drop crotch. their trousers had extra square panel that connects the legs. the trousers that i got from yohji doesn't have panel, their crotch it's just really low and no extra panels. maybe ivwri can post photo of the them when they are flat.

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post #1614 of 4971
6/26/12 at 1:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

kiko, that fits you impeccably. Big congrats on getting that, great find.
Looking at the old shows, like you guys I love how he's really mixing models with different body shapes, and seeing some of the older runway shows they just had a different energy, a more relaxed vibe I guess. It seems like he started using regular models and straight forward shows from AW01 and onwards and didn't start using older or different shaped models until SS09 again. I wonder what brought on that change, pretty much every other show since the very first show used non-typical models.
by the way, kiko, that ss94 suit you bought from me is the same as this one on the right:
PK40k.jpg
but this one has a white, almost lace-like, cotton top layer with a black bottom layer to create that same dual/floating layer effect, while your colors would be pretty much reversed.

ah... i haven't look at the shows yet!!!! i love that white suit. i was in yohji off mode for past week and didn't search for anything that i might wear, but i think i will go for the trousers and the jacket we discussed :D damn you forum!

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post #1615 of 4971
6/26/12 at 1:52pm
Oh yeah, if you/we are composing a joint fabric list, people should specify the specific season for each entry using the collection code list as much as possible because the fabric codes are not carried over between seasons. So you will see the same number/code for completely different fabrics or fabric blends depending on the season.

I think linen and ramie can go under the same heading perhaps? Not sure what the difference is, though I'm sure there is one, but in Japanese (on the tags) they use the same character for both.
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post #1616 of 4971
6/26/12 at 1:59pm
Thread Starter 
Good thing you mentioned that the fabric codes don't carry over. I wasn't sure but I was already getting overlaps from the submissions I have received already, hehe. Already gotten 43 entries icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Will make a new format for entry and input the stuff I have so far. Everyone who has given me details gave the season codes as well so will be no trouble to redo. Did you get my email asobu?

Also, linen and ramie are from different plants. Interesting that they use the same character for the two of them in Japanese though. Maybe different pronunciation (I presume you mean kanji characters)?
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post #1617 of 4971
6/26/12 at 2:03pm

so geeky...

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post #1618 of 4971
6/26/12 at 2:10pm
Ivwri, no haven't checked my mail all day as google and everything connected to it has stopped working in my browser for the last couple of days, lol. It's a hassle so I tend not to check..! Will do now though

Though I am very down with geeking out completely over things like this (probably noticable throughout this whole thread) I'm not sure what this fabric list will lead to, hehe, especially since they don't carry over between collection. I do like knowing the season codes though as it's possible to identify design elements etc within specific collection, as well as just contextualising old grails we find in the digital treasure chests (or physical ones, for any of who are lucky enough to be in tokyo).

edit: not to put a damper on things of course, hehe, I love that so many members are contributing in this thread and to anything YY related! Love the fact that there are so many members who find this place through this thread too. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Edited by asobu - 6/26/12 at 2:36pm
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post #1619 of 4971
6/26/12 at 3:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

Ivwri, no haven't checked my mail all day as google and everything connected to it has stopped working in my browser for the last couple of days, lol. It's a hassle so I tend not to check..! Will do now though
Though I am very down with geeking out completely over things like this (probably noticable throughout this whole thread) I'm not sure what this fabric list will lead to, hehe, especially since they don't carry over between collection. I do like knowing the season codes though as it's possible to identify design elements etc within specific collection, as well as just contextualising old grails we find in the digital treasure chests (or physical ones, for any of who are lucky enough to be in tokyo).

The fabric list will be useful ( alongside the season codes ) if you already have a blazer or pants from a particular season and you want the matching piece to complete a suit for example. Use the code to confirm it's the same fabric before commiting in an auction or purchase because let's face it, most of the stuff are black in most seasons.

I have yet to notice same fabric codes mean different compositions in different seasons from my wardrobe, though admittedly I haven't checked them all so I may owe a big apology lol. It's important to establish whether this is an exception or the norm. The AW10 4.1 The Men long coat and AW06 Look 8 slash blazer both have 129 fabric code, both 100% wool, and they feel the same to me IMO so some codes must be consistent......

The fabric codes seem important enough in the Yohji kingdom to be included in virtually, if not totally, everything it makes......
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post #1620 of 4971
6/26/12 at 3:18pm
Thanks again for posting those past shows, asobu. Really cool to see his evolution and original ideas. I had a few 80s flashbacks, since that's when I first saw Yohji and his oversize suits in magazines. Took 20+ years to actually try it though, thanks to you and Ivwri ;-)

Wearing another pair of hakamas today (HB-P65-100-2) in wool gab. Casual summer day fit with Uniqlo x MoMA tee and Birkenstocks. Bonus San Francisco geometry.

prkr626c.jpg

side view! (Click to show)
prkr626b.jpg
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