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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 106

post #1576 of 6668
which you guys would say best with hakamas and other cropped pants ? obviously the yohji would go well but would the ann do equally well ? i kinda like the thick soles on them..

post #1577 of 6668
shah, did you pick up anything other than the hakamas on your trip? the pics looked great.
post #1578 of 6668
Thanks ! I did not get anything else. Well I was in paris for just half a day, but after London--where there's a yohji store awaiting my visit-- I'll be back there again so I wasn't in a rush to deplete my account so quickly redface.gif
post #1579 of 6668
shah I think either would go, it's down to which would be most versatile with the rest of your wardrobe. The prices I've seen around for the Yohji trainers are reasonably good now, so pick them up if you think blue would work better I guess. I actually really want to get a pair of the non-holey Anns some time in the future (will give the dip dye ones for this F/W a miss though).
post #1580 of 6668
for anyone interested, Hotoveli in NYC is where I tried on all the Yohji pieces (and ultimately purchased the Damir pants). they have really wonderful customer service, and their s/s stock is almost all 70% off now, so if there's a particular item you're looking for you may try giving them a call.
post #1581 of 6668
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Vivienne Westwood is probably the best known British designer outside Britain. Hong Kong in particular is a huge market for VW. People there call her the " Queen " of Britain instead of Queen Elizabeth lol. She has a very long history in fashion and you cannot establish heritage in a short time. My wife and I once came across a free Vivienne Westwood Shoe Exhibition held in Selfridges Oxford Street London and the designs on display were so bald and mindblowing. We also saw her free Fashion Exhibition in Hong Kong ( a bit like V&A Yohji ) and that was also great, the archiving and the tailoring were superb. She is above all a great clothes maker ( like Yohji again ) and her Women's Lines ( Anglomania, Red Label ) are breathtaking, even though not everyone can take her humour in fashion seriously ( a bit like Yohji again )

That AW98 YYPH 999 wool stitch blazer that Asobu sold me was the same season when VW modelled YYPH on the Runway as a guest. 

I've actually been thinking quite a lot about the comparison between Yohji and Vivienne's work. The tailoring is as you say amazing with both, but I am also interested in how they both approach history and their particular styles of referencing the past to create something for the present (...or seeing as it is fashion, the moment right after the present). VW's work is meticulous in the referencing and construction techniques of historical dress, although admittedly fused with other periods, and even then the techniques are subverted or altered, all in the same garment. She does some serious research in her work, and I really like that, because it shows a dedication to dressmaking to a level that most cannot or do not attempt. In much the same way Yohji's clothing has to be seen in person, has to be worn, before you can really appreciate the full extent of the work. Yes VW's work is more in your face, whereas Yohji's is tends to be more subdued by comparison, but I think there are definitely elements and ideas that overlap quite nicely.
post #1582 of 6668
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

Ok, I finally managed to get the archive pictures into my computer. Like I said the quality isn't very good, the pictures in the magazine are thumbnail sized. Anyway, these are all the archive pics I've seen but if anyone sits on other/better pictures, please post. Will post the late 90's collections later on.
YYPH A/W 1984 (Click to show)
A/W 1984 (Click to show)
Whilst I was going through all the yesteryears' YYPH images that Asobu so laboriously uploaded, marvelling what a genius Yohji-san had been for so long. I noticed the back of this blazer on the right of AW84....this is the very first blazer I bought in the sale of 1984 at Browns London! A very dark greyish green unlined thin lapel blazer in 70/20/10 Wool/Cotton/Nylon fabric. No lining at all, patchwork 3B construction with white/blue/yellow piping. Simple plastic closure buttons and buttonless sleeves. Fabric and care instructions all printed on the silver grey YY label, no other tag on it ( this was the very first YYPH season, no archiving then lol ), Size M only, in today's sizing probably equivalent to a 5. Huge shoulder pads.... 
A/W 1984 (Click to show)
Compared with today's standard of construction it's nothing special but it feels indestructible....I have worn it >500 times and I still wear it after 27 years and it still looks new. It has a huge sentimental and nostalgic value, think this museum grade piece is staying with me forever.
A/W 1984 (Click to show)
Thanks Asobu again for uploading all these wonderful archive images.
A/W 1984 (Click to show)
PS. the said blazer can be seen @ 2"10 on this V&A The Poet Of Black vid
A/W 1984 (Click to show) A/W 1984 (Click to show)
post #1583 of 6668
Sorry about the last post, completing messed up the formatting thanks to my not-very-useful phone:(

Asobu, fancy compiling a list of fabric codes? I know it's probably a huge task but since fabrics are such important backbones to Yohji's work ( the desired silhouettes of his creations depend so heavily on the types of fabric as well as the tailoring ) it would be interesting to see how his use of fabrics evolves throughout his career so far. Also the list can be useful for us to track down matching blazers and pants in auctions to complete a runway look for example. Everyone here can contribute from the pieces they have. Well?? Imagine season codes together with fabric codes will make this the best Yohji thread in the universe smile.gif
post #1584 of 6668
david, there's a list of fabric codes that ivwri compiled on the first page of the thread. don't know if it's everything you're looking for, but here it is again

Fabric codes for various seasons.

HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
HC -- SS 99, AW10
HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
HF -- SS 96
HG -- AW 96
HI -- AW 97
HJ -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
HM -- AW 02, SS 08
HN -- AW 99, AW 05
HO - SS 93, SS 11
HP - AW 93, AW 11
HQ -- SS 03
HR -- SS 06
HS -- AW92
HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
HU -- SS97, AW 03
HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
HX -- SS 01, AW 07
HY -- AW 98, SS 05
HZ -- SS 04, AW 09
post #1585 of 6668
ann d's are better
post #1586 of 6668
Thread Starter 
p4 those are the season codes. Fabric codes are the last three numbers on every YY product code.

e.g HB - J49 - 100 (HB is season code, J49 is the kind of jacket since J is usually code for jacket of some sort and 100 is the fabric code, in this case wool gabardine).

Funnily enough I was thinking about compiling a list based on stuff I have and the product list from this season then people could contribute stuff based on their own items. I think I will still do it actually. Will reserve a post for it at some point and link to it in the OP again once we have enough content. We will definitely need everybody's help in making the list though, people like you who have really old pieces would be invaluable to making it comprehensive, heh.
post #1587 of 6668
Thread Starter 
Might as well make this the reserved post. Will keep updating it and then add the content to the OP after we get a good amount. Any ideas for the format would be great.
Fabric codes:

010 -- 100% cotton
014 -- 100% cotton (cotton twill)
080 -- 85% cotton / 15% cashmere
400 -- 57% cotton / 43% silk

353 -- 97% linen / 3% polyester (blue pinstripe SS09)

310 -- ramie / rayon


404 -- 100% silk (kakutsunagi print pattern)

100 -- 100% wool (wool gabardine)

Edited by Ivwri - 6/26/12 at 12:35am
post #1588 of 6668
oh, my bad. should've read more carefully. guess that's what happens when you're doing several things at once frown.gif
post #1589 of 6668
to keep digging in the archives - here's a small treat for us who don't have the old catalogues/lookbooks:

eddy kohli
(A/W 83-84?)

max vadukul
(A/W 84-85 + S/S 85)

paolo roversi
(A/W 85-86)

nick knight 01
(A/W 86-87)

nick night 03
(A/W 87-88 + S/S 88)

nick knight 02
(S/S 88 + A/W 88-89 + S/S 90)

david sims
(A/W 95-96 + S/S 96)

koto bolofo
post #1590 of 6668

"Scissor work, minimal rough cuts,
design work over structured shapes.
Felt, a humble material, becomes a
sublime, noble casing. And always an
emphasis on the back, a delicately
erotic focal point."

Part 1 of 7
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