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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 105

post #1561 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post

off the topic. friend of mine will be going to paris and interview yohji for one hour for german magazine. i almost choked when he told me over dinner couple of hours ago. seriously considering asking if i can go and pretend to be his assistant. one hour 1 on 1 with yohji it's life goal to be honest.

I would do it. Opportunity might not present itself again.
post #1562 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I would do it. Opportunity might not present itself again.

+1 I would definitely do it as well.

Also kiko, expect a PM from me in a bit wink.gif.
Edited by Ivwri - 6/24/12 at 10:32am
post #1563 of 5958

At last some sunshine and 18 deg C! Some really bad weather here in the NW of England lately....

 

SS11 Zip Motif Knit.jpg

 

Basic navy Tee, YYPH SS11 Zip Motif Knit ( 85/15 cotton/cashmere mix, fabric code 080, sz 3, in black with white accent on collar, MADE IN CHINA ) Vivienne Westwood SS11 cotton low crotch pants ( work well with the Yohji silhouette, fraction of the cost! ), AW11 YY Yohji Smith sneakers. 

post #1564 of 5958

I've always admired Yohji's work and his ethics in terms of his dress/clothing creations.

The idea of using real-people when it comes to the runway; people who aren't in the "model" spotlight is really beautiful for me.

Although I don't yet own any Yohji pieces at the moment. (Being a jobless student ATM), I do hope in the future that I may be able to take part in collecting his masterpieces.

 

In the meantime, I'm still researching more about his work and his creations. (As I've learned that this is very vast and that there are many variations of styles he has created)
I've found him to be a very inspiring man, and the shilouettes of his clothing are very strong and smooth.

 

I know most of the people in the thread have already possibly seen the interview, but since I had recently finished listening; I found it to be a good indicator of how his aesthetics work with his ideas:

post #1565 of 5958
^ great video. thanks for posting
post #1566 of 5958
No pics but went by a local store here in Singapore who has a small selection of Yohji left at 30% off. Pricing is not great due to extra landing costs. If anyone is looking for the hakamas in the blue jersey cotton, this store still had 2 pairs left in size 3. I think it's a real blessing when you can try on the pieces in person rather than buying online as it comes down to how comfortable you feel with the size / fit. There were a couple of items that I was considering but after trying it on and in the size 3, I was glad I didn't purchase the items online or in-store. I think I'm a size 3 but maybe a 2. Everything I tried was a size 3 and using pics from multiple sources. I don't know the model numbers so can't reference the lookbook #.

Tried this jacket on and it was huge on me.

352

Tried this on previously and thought it might be a good match for my jersey hakamas, but didn't love it at the end of the day to justify the price.

464

The blue in this shirt is really nice and the collar makes for a nice change. But also didn't love it enough to justify the price. The color is much nicer than the 2nd one posted.

317

350
post #1567 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Like that fit david. Always nice to see Westwood pieces in use. I don't think enough people pick them up. I am not a big fan of the current stuff for men though things like the "Alcoholic" trousers and other similar drop crotch pants look like they would work great with YY stuff. I was very interested in her clothing when I was in the UK and always used to enter any of her boutiques I came across (there was a particularly nice and small one in Leeds) but I never picked up anything, just enjoyed looking at it and believed that I couldn't pull it off unless I was a dandy of some sort, hehe. Would be nice to have a look at some of her older collections and see how they influenced Yohji with his own aesthetic as if I remember correctly, he did mention that her punk designs and influences were an influence on him when he first started out.

I tried on the top shirt in Paris and quite liked it. The shirring effect and the weight of the fabric is pretty nice. Was just to fitted for what I was looking for though. Very interesting to hear that that gabardine jacket fits large. On the runway it looked pretty big, but in all the store photos I have seen it looked a lot smaller than that so I wasn't sure any more whether it was just the stores typically sizing down or whether the model on the runway was just smaller than he looked. If I wasn't waiting for the AW12 stuff to hit (and there are some jackets I want there) I might have been more interested in picking that up in a size 4 now hehe.

Thanks for posting that video fishbones, it has been posted before, but that's cool. I have added a link to the previous posting to the video index on the first post of the thread.
post #1568 of 5958
post #1569 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Woah asobu, I think you just broke this thread lol8[1].gif
post #1570 of 5958
...duuuuude. Thank you, thank you, thank you icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #1571 of 5958
Glad you guys like it! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif


For those of you who wanted the tag codes for the 90's collections, I just about finsihed this up and I think it's correct (double checked most of them) though I am grateful for any corrections. As far as I know, the look of the tags changed with AW91 from the soft brushstroke signature to the sharp edged one used today, but the codes didn't appear until AW92 as far as I can tell - though I'm 100% sure about this. I initially thought that SS92 had code HZ but I've seen at least one or two SS92 pieces without any tag codes. Possibly the codes started in SS92 but not all items were tagged with them



The list:

SS92 - HZ (?)
AW92 - HS
SS93 - HO
AW93 - HP
SS94 - HT
AW94 - HV
SS95 -- HB
AW95 - HE
SS96 - HF
AW96 - HG
SS97 - HU
AW97 - HI
SS98 - HJ
AW98 - HY
SS99 - HC
AW99 - HN


Which means the full list should be like this:

HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
HC -- SS 99, AW10
HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
HF -- SS 96
HG -- AW 96
HI -- AW 97
HJ -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
HM -- AW 02, SS 08
HN -- AW 99, AW 05
HO - SS 93, SS 11
HP - AW 93, AW 11
HQ -- SS 03
HR -- SS 06
HS -- AW92
HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
HU -- SS97, AW 03
HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
HX -- SS 01, AW 07
HY -- AW 98, SS 05
HZ -- SS 04, AW 09
Edited by asobu - 6/25/12 at 3:54am
post #1572 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Headed out now but will add the codes to the OP when I get back. Great post again asobu.
post #1573 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by asobu View Post

Glad you guys like it! icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
For those of you who wanted the tag codes for the 90's collections, I just about finsihed this up and I think it's correct (double checked most of them) though I am grateful for any corrections. As far as I know, the look of the tags changed with AW91 from the soft brushstroke signature to the sharp edged one used today, but the codes didn't appear until AW92 as far as I can tell - though I'm 100% sure about this. I initially thought that SS92 had code HZ but I've seen at least one or two SS92 pieces without any tag codes. Possibly the codes started in SS92 but not all items were tagged with them
The list:
SS92 - HZ (?)
AW92 - HS
SS93 - HO
AW93 - HP
SS94 - HT
AW94 - HV
SS95 -- HB
AW95 - HE
SS96 - HF
AW96 - HG
SS97 - HU
AW97 - HI
SS98 - HJ
AW98 - HY
SS99 - HC
AW99 - HN
Which means the full list should be like this:
HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
HC -- SS 99, AW10
HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
HF -- SS 96
HG -- AW 96
HI -- AW 97
HJ -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
HM -- AW 02, SS 08
HN -- AW 99, AW 05
HO - SS 93, SS 11
HP - AW 93, AW 11
HQ -- SS 03
HR -- SS 06
HS -- AW92
HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
HU -- SS97, AW 03
HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
HX -- SS 01, AW 07
HY -- AW 98, SS 05
HZ -- SS 04, AW 09

Great job Asobu! You are the man :)

 

Just like to add Asobu and I had this discussion a while ago about Y's Yohji Yamamoto ( the aggressive Y's label ) that its Pitto Uomo collection sometimes throws up some wierd codes. Normally that Y's Yohji Yamamoto Pitti Uomo season was AW05 so the code for most pcs from that collection should read MN - . However I had won a blazer with leather string lapel from that season ( an iteration of that was on the Runway ) that has a code MO - . Just so when any of you comes across that in an auction you can use this as reference as well. 

post #1574 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Like that fit david. Always nice to see Westwood pieces in use. I don't think enough people pick them up. I am not a big fan of the current stuff for men though things like the "Alcoholic" trousers and other similar drop crotch pants look like they would work great with YY stuff. I was very interested in her clothing when I was in the UK and always used to enter any of her boutiques I came across (there was a particularly nice and small one in Leeds) but I never picked up anything, just enjoyed looking at it and believed that I couldn't pull it off unless I was a dandy of some sort, hehe. Would be nice to have a look at some of her older collections and see how they influenced Yohji with his own aesthetic as if I remember correctly, he did mention that her punk designs and influences were an influence on him when he first started out.
 

Vivienne Westwood is probably the best known British designer outside Britain. Hong Kong in particular is a huge market for VW. People there call her the " Queen " of Britain instead of Queen Elizabeth lol. She has a very long history in fashion and you cannot establish heritage in a short time. My wife and I once came across a free Vivienne Westwood Shoe Exhibition held in Selfridges Oxford Street London and the designs on display were so bald and mindblowing. We also saw her free Fashion Exhibition in Hong Kong ( a bit like V&A Yohji ) and that was also great, the archiving and the tailoring were superb. She is above all a great clothes maker ( like Yohji again ) and her Women's Lines ( Anglomania, Red Label ) are breathtaking, even though not everyone can take her humour in fashion seriously ( a bit like Yohji again )

 

That AW98 YYPH 999 wool stitch blazer that Asobu sold me was the same season when VW modelled YYPH on the Runway as a guest. 

post #1575 of 5958
ah, well, no go on the Yohji for me. after much deliberation I decided to go with a pair of wool Damir pants instead. they were a little more compatible with how I currently dress and not quite as voluminous toward the bottom. they did work quite well with the Yohji items I tried though so I'm still thinking of them as a good building block to explore volume a little more.
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