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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 97post #1441 of 66036/16/12 at 8:05am^ If that's for me, I actually really like Y-3. Yes most of the stuff that sells is the simple logo stuff, that is just jazzed up Adidas, but what is now sold as the 'Lux' pieces are darn beautiful. But yeah generally buy what you like and what you enjoy, otherwise you'll never feel comfortable.post #1442 of 66036/16/12 at 11:26amWasn't the Coming Soon line was supposed to be his effort to reach new markets? an intro to Yohji's style without the price tag or luxe materials. The fact that it didn't succeed makes me think either his type of clothes have a limited audience or the company didn't market them very well. The promo videos were pretty cool and I (obviously) like the clothes, but there was still a bit of that "out of synch with current trends" quality that maybe just didn't play well.
Yohji probably likes that his image is perceived as unchanging and not "chasing the new". At the same time, his stuff still gets plenty of editorial coverage alongside all the other big names. And I still see the occasional ad campaign, though not really for Pour Homme. Y-3 ads seem to be all over the place.
More visuals because it's fun. Pour Homme SS06 campaign. "the baseball collection". Alexi Silvangi photographer.
Womens SS06 campaignpost #1443 of 66036/16/12 at 11:34ampost #1444 of 66036/16/12 at 11:35amQuote:I wore something similar to the chore jacket fit yesterday - before seeing yours. French chore jacket, rolled up black trousers, grey gingham shirt with what could practically be called a double mandarin collar ( ) and white dirty sneakers. Also carried a red, white and black rucksack. The trousers have an adjustable waist, double pleats, quite a lot of room in the seat and thighs, and a nice taper. Used to be part of a tuxedo, actually, but they're not after being washed, "de-creased" and having the band on the side removed. Not as much volume as an actual Yohji fit, but It was my first time wearing something like this in public. This awesome thread is (at least partially) to blame.Originally Posted by dantebykiko
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)bit of all. studying menswear at central st. martins, the styling it's just for fun and taking break from the intense timetable. it's more like building different shapes and proportions for my future references, i'm not really interested in current garments and what's on trend.
same goes for what i wear actually, that's why i really enjoy buying yohji and particually vintage and second hand of his designs. the other reason it's i can't afford to buy straight from the shop but that's no excuse not to wear it. as you say his designs have different points of inspirations and he curate them really well. he breaks this "old" with some funny or clever designs (prints, pockets etc). also japanese people have very good intuition for proportions and textures which not many western people do have.
it's great discussion but i'm not really use to write on forums, whould be fantastic if we can sit and talk since i'm re-writing what i want to say 10 times..
anyway, it's easier with fitposts: 1950's french chore jacket, yyph a/w 09 shirt, charity shop uniqlo pants (£2,50!) and cdg boots. also the second jacket that i got from japan. code: HV - J35 - 103. 90% laine wool 10% cashmere. the buttons holes are beautiful. (it's my gf who it's wearing it today with new yohji pants i found in vintage shop for her).
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
It somehow seems like everyone lets their hate out in other threads and saves their love for this one. I'm pretty sure I've never seen another SF thread with so little negativity. These 1440 posts have been a joy to read. Thanks everyone, especially Ivwri and asobu.
Edited by TanTheMan - 6/18/12 at 10:08ampost #1445 of 66036/16/12 at 2:10pm
regarding the quote ivwri posted, i only can say it's very unprofessional. and the person who posted in my opinion it's unloyal to the brand he it's been working. on-line forums are not the place to share such information. also who goes to work for yohji and it's unhappy because he it's not commercial or following what others brand are doing.
parker, thanks for those images! i've seen only half of them. there are so many unseen beautiful photographs from old yohji's catalogues. i'm always against posting too much scans and making exclusive and rare visuals access to large auditorium. simply because these days there are so many visual designers, who just save images from Internet to "create" their mood boards. in my opinion this is lazy designing and can't even be called designing, it's more like reproduction and robbery. i would like to see more texts and interviews as they help to understand the level designers and artists working and see their process.
anyway, i'm here to be friendly and escape from stressful fashion environment.
my fit post: yyph blazer with gathering on the back, muji tee, y's trousers (so beautiful!), cdg suede shoes.post #1446 of 66036/17/12 at 3:00amThe sale is on in UK Conduit Street, still a few Hakamas left in blue I think, I am not a Hakamas man so am not sure what's left, 40% off everything. Japan's YY sale started 1st week in July last year so may be the same this year?
Best news for yours truly is Joyce Boutique in HK just started its pre-sale 2 days ago. A phone call to them an hour ago ( they had about 40 YYPH SS12 pieces when I visited in March ) confirmed ALL the pants, Hakamas and other styles, are sold out rather predictably. But the Look 32 Napolean Cubism Jacket is still available in sz 2 only & only 1 left, you bet I grabbed it! It was quite fitted in sz 2 when I tried it, I have lost a few pounds now thanks to the gym so it should be fine. Best bit is Joyce sale is 50% off rather than 40% for Yohji global stores, it means sale price is about HKD 5250 ( UK £430 ). Also bagged the Hemp/singed smooth lace-up zip boots in black in sz 2 for HKD 3150 ( £270 ). Dunno if I call these a bargain, but it is compared to UK prices!
PS. HK YYPH retail is near enough identical to Japan retail, so it is baffling why European countries charge so much more..... at least 35% mark up, Ivwri your blue derbies are £740 retail in Conduit Street! HKD 5900 retail in Joyce....post #1447 of 66036/17/12 at 4:16amThread Starterdavidlee, are those hemp/singed boots the ones from look 10 and various other looks from the collection? Didn't see those for sale anywhere in Europe or online so I guess my best bet is to try and see if they are available at your store or in Japan. Any luck in a size 5? Do they fit true to size? I am usually a 5 in YY shoes.
Great pick up on that Napoleon cubist jacket I am still stalking various auctions hoping someone will be crazy enough to sell theirs, hehe. Parker's fit really sold me on the jacket.
Also, the price markups are insane outside Asia. Only went for the shoes because I was able to get 60% off retail at LNCC.
With regards to the quote I posted earlier, I agree with kiko in that I thought it was pretty unprofessional and possibly also petty to come and complain about a company after you leave because they don't agree with your point of view. It is interesting that he felt Rei's modernization of CdG as a brand is the only way to move a brand like that forward. I quite respect what Rei accomplished with her brand over the years. While it may not be for me personally, it is definitely very business savvy and allows her the means to take her of her many employees AND afford her the freedom to do what she wants with the main brand. I do believe that Yohji's approach does have its place as long as his own organisation's expectations and overheads are scaled accordingly. Likearker said, it is possible that Yohji's aesthetic and design sensibilities may just not have a mass market appeal off the bat. The Y-3 brand seems to be gaining serious traction though so I am sure that diffusion label is doing pretty well for them and in my opinion does not dilute the main brand in any way. I quite like the last two seasons I saw online and will definitely pick up some stuff next time I am near a store.
I agree with kiko about lazy designers, hehe, however even Yohji said that one should keep copying until they find their own voice so there is also that to consider sometimes.
This whole discussion is really just making me realize that indeed society as a whole needs to slow down and take some stock of things, people need to enjoy and value things more and accumulate less and not focus on being cool, but being comfortable and happy. Yohji's stuff really captures this feeling for me and I guess that's why I am gonna be with his brand for the long haul unless I perceive that changes in some way.
That look is great by the way kiko, so chilled. Nice sunglasses too .
We should totally send some spam press to Yohji's people about getting fans on here to walk one of his catwalks, we got a whole range of people from all around the world, and a nice variety of body types would make for a cool FW2013-2014post #1448 of 66036/17/12 at 5:18amLook 31, 32 footwear and probably Look 10 Ivwri, code HB-E10-754, 61k in Japan? retail, HKD 6300 before 50% sale. So in a matter of 48hrs, my SS12 purchase is over lol, I bought the 010 cotton long shirt/jacket cardigan hybrid in Conduit Street as well, you can see the item on their FB page. The boots I didn't even try in HK! I was told they haven't changed the sizing so my usual sz 2 is UK7 Euro 41. So if your derbies were HKD 5900 retail, these boots will be close to UK £800 if available ( they were not there in London ). So sale price is £480 ( 40% off ) vs £270 in HK. Crazy! The look 32 cubism is 808 fabric, cotton? Very delicate, shirt like material with blue, red patchwork at the back, HK retail was $10500, very close to 94k yen in Japan. And yes to answer your question earlier, it can be buttoned over but I doubt anyone will wear it that way often.
Yohji's empire is relatively small in the fashion world. Dunno if any massive changes can be actioned with a small ( ish ) fan base anyway to ' move ' the brand forward. IMO he has moved it forward by slimming down the oversizeness in recent years to cater for the masses ( although I'm been reliably informed oversize styles are due for a big comeback ) but has stayed true to his core values that the forms and shapes of his clothes should follow the properties of the fabrics, not the other way round. I don't know of any fashion designer ( or dress/clothes maker he calls himself ) that has such comphrensive archiving of fabric coding and proudly displays it on a large tag....
Plus his relative reluctance to radically changes is what makes his clothes timeless and appealing to me at least. That's why I suspect his clothes of yesteryears have a bottom line value after a while and don't devalue anymore because of their timelessness.
PS. there is a video clip about Yohji on Joyce.com on designing, he called himself lazy....you guys can check it out....or unless it's been posted already?post #1449 of 66036/17/12 at 5:51amThread StarterThat 010 cotton long cardigan coat is a great piece. Really liked the double layering and asymmetric pockets. I never handled the 808 fabric, but it looked nice in the photos I saw and sounds very interesting from your description.
Would be cool to see what's still up for sale in the JP stores, wonder whether anything cool is left considering how things were selling out earlier.
Very happy to hear the news that more oversized looks should be coming back soon. Looking forward to it.
EDIT - Here's the LINK to Joyce feature with video interview of Yohji. This wasn't posted before davidlee so thanks for the heads up.post #1450 of 66036/17/12 at 6:41ampost #1451 of 66036/17/12 at 6:47ampost #1452 of 66036/17/12 at 7:15ampost #1453 of 66036/17/12 at 7:23amre: the previous post from TFS "The disdain that I felt was that of his unwillingness to modernize his image". I believe we are all entitled to an opinion and perhaps this could have been said in a different way. The poster had his own ideas as to what modernization of the Yohji brand and image looked like, and perhaps he was a little naive in what it takes to run a business or why certain decisions are made or not made.
Rei at CDG just made different decisions and for some, it seemed like she made the right ones with all the different collaborations. And others will point out, that she never had to go through bankruptcy like Yohji. But like others have said, over the years the old CDG is gone and it seemed like there hasn't been much new from season to season. CDG Play and fragrances seem to capture the main consumer interests. I lost track and interest of her work. Some of it could be due to what I saw and the safe buys retailers were making, but recycling the same old boiled polyester pieces seemed old compared to the hidden chain blazer from the past. But at the end of the day, you need to be able to make money and sometimes the basics are what sells. I wonder how many people will purchase one of those printed silk or military print jackets from this season. Many will shy away due to the high retail on those items and some may eventually get picked up at 60% off.
I agree with others that the old CDG is worth keeping an eye out for and there's a suit here that offers a more affordable way to get into the looser fits. I'll throw in Junya just because I've always had a soft spot for some of his crazy stuff.
Ivwri - great idea about using the folks here on SF to model his next fall collection. That would make for a great news / article piece somewhere and generate some amazing PR!post #1454 of 66036/17/12 at 10:46am
Out today for afternoon tea, sunny but 13 deg C so not exactly summer weather :(
YYPH 80s/90s wool 3B blazer size S. One of 3 Yohji blazers I have without a white tag code inside and the only one made in France. 100% wool, very soft handed, half lined so I guess it's a SS piece. Got from Yoox few years ago new. You can tell it's vintage by the huge oversizeness of the chest and dropped shoulders ( padless ), the long length but the buttonless sleeves hit just right so it's meant for someone my frame. Even the closure buttons don't have plastic button-backs. Real horn buttons. When worn closed there is so much natural movement it's like wearing nothing. Comfort at its best.
Worn with Y's AW07 wool LS double zip cardigan with reversed stitched distressed seams, Y-3 twill cotton pants with drawstring hems and built-in elasticated cuffs, Y-3 black leather Hejarklack Hi-tops ( my staple footwear, so Yohji creeperish at a fraction of the price lol )post #1455 of 66036/17/12 at 1:06pm
In regards to that Fashionspot post, I think that the poster is perhaps a bit confused as to what "disdain" means, but more importantly I believe that the main point is the fear that Yohji Yamamoto, as a company, does not, in the poster's view, have a very secure future. Case in point: "There is some respect to be given to someone who sticks to their guns but at this day and age it is the collaboration of creative and commerce that propells one into a succesful buisness." (my emphasis) therefore "I do not expect many more years of the yamamoto label because of this unwillingness of change. He has not embraced today and is stuck in his ideals of yesterday.". I think this is a legitimate opinion to have. For my part I would love to be a able to buy Yohji at retail, but the price point, the result of Yohji's high production and aesthetic standards, prevents me from directly supporting him/his business. Being a student, I must therefore stick to the vintage market. I think what the fashionspot poster desires is a YYPH line similar to CDG's Play or Shirt lines, something with more mass appeal, which to be honest, Yohji is not even close to having. The strange thing is that the poster completely rejects Y-3 as a legitimate solution to this problem, leaving me with the feeling that Yohji's image seems to be a problem as well. I don't see how an image makover with the goal of more mass appeal is even possible, given Yohji's core aesthetic values.
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