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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 96

post #1426 of 6676
The older CdG stuff seems to blend better with Yohji. Here are a few images from past collections that I think have the same spirit. In fact, you can see the direct influence they've had on each other.

various past Comme des Garcons (Click to show)
Originally Posted by sshum View Post

I'm curious as to people's thoughts on wool dress pants being rolled up vs. hemmed to the right length when paired with a suit jacket. I've seen both in many different images. To me, rolled up hems indicate a degree of casualness especially when worn with a matching suit jacket. Hemming to the right length is more like a traditional suit attire. Does it just come down to personal preferences?

Either way can work, but I think there should be a certain level of disheveledness. Things shouldn't be so perfect. Just for visual interest, I like to have either a little space between shoe and hem or a nice big break of drapey fabric. What is even more key to me is the lack of a crease. It makes the look less polished, less like a business suit and more casual, relaxed.
post #1427 of 6676
Thread Starter 
Those CdG photos are very cool. I always look out for older CdG pieces whenever I browse eBay or more rarely, Y! Japan for Yohji stuff. I never see the cool stuff like that though.
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post #1429 of 6676
that abstract sweater is awesome. jil blob-esque. ...well cdg did it first apparently redface.gif
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post #1431 of 6676
There's a seller in Australia that always seems to have some very interesting older CDG pieces for sale:

Thanks for all the very fine fits, and commentary. Lots of inspiration.
post #1432 of 6676
Originally Posted by cowerd View Post

There's a seller in Australia that always seems to have some very interesting older CDG pieces for sale:
Thanks for all the very fine fits, and commentary. Lots of inspiration.

yeah, saw him. he had and couple of nice y's jackets on very good prices.

post #1433 of 6676
Thought I would add that all the sales associates for YY here in Tokyo are wearing all the cool (read: sold-out) hakama pants and covers. So cool. Tried on the black linen one at Aoyama and it was lovely. Heck, it was linen so it would be an insane mess once it gets out of my suitcase! They were sold out of all other fabrics so....

I passed -- depressed frown.gif

It would have gone great with my outfit that day...


hakama steeze everywhere smile.gif

post #1434 of 6676
Neofinitia, your pictures all make me depressed because I can't experience all these locations frown.gif
post #1435 of 6676
Some seriously good fits in the last few pages icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif Thought I'd throw one in as well.



Layered and asymmetrical collar shirt from SS11 (I think it's the same one davidlee388 posted with his AW05 blazer). The trousers are a light cotton from Coming Soon. The blazer is CdG, made in an incredibly lightweight wool from SS98. I definitely think older Comme works better with Yohji if you can find it. The tailoring tended to be looser and the fabrics were not feeling as a lot of the pieces now. Even the washed polyesters and boiled wools nowadays feel like they need to be broken in by the wearer.
post #1436 of 6676
Some seriously nice fits from everyone, thought I'd throw one in as well shog[1].gif


The shirt is a layered collar, half oxford from SS11 (the same one davidlee388 posted with his AW05 blazer I think). The trousers are a light cotton from Coming Soon. The blazer is a super lightweight wool from Comme SS98. I definitely think older Comme works well with Yohji, the tailoring was looser and the general silhouettes were far more relaxed. And I also think the older Comme fabrics didn't feel Whenever I try on pieces from the newer collections it feels a touch too pristine, like it needs breaking in. Yohji never feels that way - it just feels natural.
post #1437 of 6676
Thread Starter 
Gave a presentation today -


Pants are from Spring/Summer 2000. They are high waisted pants with a deep drop crotch in wool gabardine. Picked them up from wire and very glad I did. SS00 is still one of my favorite collections so I'm always happy to pick up pieces from it.

The gabardine as always is fantastic and it still looks like I just bought it brand new yesterday. They have cinches at the side like the AW11 pants I have (although I think the cinches work better in that more recent iteration) and can be worn higher or lower depending on preference as they also have belt loops. Beautiful in motion and go with everything in my wardrobe. They are also not tapered at the bottom so they gave me more versatility when I want to have the hem of my pants covering a bit more of the shoes.
post #1438 of 6676
Thread Starter 
Speaking of Rei and Yohji, I stumbled across this conversation over on thefashionspot a while back and thought I would post it here in light of recent discussions.
I have had the priviallage and disdain of working within the Yohi Yamamoto Company. Before I started there and within my studies at university I respected and lookeed up to Yohji as a mentor for my own fashion identity. It was his clothing that always rocked me, his use of lines and concepts of shapes. He is a true master. The disdain that I felt was that of his unwillingness to modernize his image. He has for a very long time created what he creates and has never budged. Never has he revamped the image of Yohji Yamamoto. There is some respect to be given to someone who sticks to their guns but at this day and age it is the collaboration of creative and commerce that propells one into a succesful buisness. Newness is needed. Y-3 was his move into mainstream but it still did not make him! Its still Adidas and not Yohji!!! I talked with high powered people within the Yohji corporation about why this is. Why is Yohji not caring of his counterparts and their diving into a modernized world of fashion but still within their own creative world. Comme Des Garcon for instance was my example with this Yamamoto employee. I asked why is Comme running forward within fashions scope with her Guerrilla stores, Dover Street and all the collaborations that she involves herself with and Yohji not doing anything to reintroduce himself to a maybe yonger crowd, a hipper crowd or even to his loyal followers. Even the loyals need a recycling of energy to stay loyal. Yohji, i felt, needed to also produce such energy within his company. I was told not to compare the two designers because it was like comparing the 2 slowest kids in the class who sit in the back row. I should look at who is in front of the class for inspiration not the one that sits at your left or right. This comment from this high-ranking official in the Yohji camp shocked me. I felt I was comparing Yohji to a higher standard classmate, REi kawakubo! She, in my mind, is no longer in the back of the class, I said. She has driven toward the front. What is yohji doing to keep up? the topic was dropped and so was my respect for the company.
Its hard, I beleive, for a company with such roots to grow within this fast paced world of consumerisim and celebritisim. Rei kawakubo has exceled in putting herself constantly in the fore front of it all with an artistic eye and and creative vision. She has created modernity. Yohj, I feel has not done so within the lst few years Yes his clothing last decades and never will become dated always new and fresh but his image has lost its shine and needs to be polished into todays market. I still look at his clothing with a bit amazment but I feel from learning more of the company and meeting the man himself that it is a dying company. I do not expect many more years of the yamamoto label because of this unwillingness of change. He has not embraced today and is stuck in his ideals of yesterday.

Read more: Yohji Yamamoto: " I Hate Fashion " - Page 4 - the Fashion Spot
post #1439 of 6676
Rei has indeed modernized, but I wonder to what cost. The name 'Comme des Garçons' means so many things to so many different people. To your average person on the street they know it through Play or fragrances - your rappers and celebrities wear Play and all anyone ever remembers is a heart logo. It has become the logo of CdG for many people. The fragrances have a life of their own within fragrance communities and the idea of it being a 'niche' line propels the mystique around it. But then you go see all the thousands of collaborations CdG undertake - from The SImpsons, to Speedo, to the Beatles, to H&M (even though Rei admits this was a mistake). So many collabs and selling the Comme des Garçons name. Yes the products are still notable CdG, but I do wonder as to what extent. Thankfully the house is rebellious to the end though, so the mainline still caters to the Rei fans, but in a way the all the stuff on the side I usually ignore seems to be the price of that freedom.

Yohji sticks to his guns, and that is what makes his work so attractive to me. People will gravitate towards him because they see something that speaks to them. Whether old or young, short or tall, fat or thin, Yohji has some of the most diverse fan bases out there. Admittedly this is also the case with Comme, and like them Yohji also is not exactly adverse to collaborations, but his stubbornness (and I don't mean that in a bad way) to do things according to his philosophy shows that he stands for something. Too many designers seem to lose their identities to market pressures, their work being dictated by the flow of fashion, and their very personalities being neatly packaged and sold. I hope he does carry on rocking out to his own tune. The people will still come.

(I tried posting a fit earlier but apparently it is 'awaiting moderation'...hopefully it posts some time soon, otherwise I'll put it up again tomorrow).
post #1440 of 6676

Someone has never heard of Y-3 huh?  Pretty much every designer has a diffusion line or collabs to get paid.  Best to just ignore it and buy what you like.

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