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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 87

post #1291 of 5958
^ that the whole collection? maybe needs to be seen in person but one of the least inspiring, from the pics at least.
post #1292 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post

^ that the whole collection? maybe needs to be seen in person but one of the least inspiring, from the pics at least.

not the whole collection, just the looks that in my opinion can be worn easily with his mainline. also the opening of s/s 08 it's quite nice.

 

Y3_SS08_0005.jpgY3_SS08_0019.jpg

post #1293 of 5958

Some people may dismiss and rubbish Y-3 too readily but some stuff in the collections ( especially Exclusives ) definitely have the Yohji vibe and can mix well with the " serious " YYPH/Y's pieces. 

 

Check out these 2 Exclusive Looks from the Y-3 SS11 Runway, the supersized satin suspender pants in both are Yohji in style. The satin jackets have similar design to the signature Napolean Cubism Jackets of YYPH SS12. So if anything, YYPH line copied ideas from Y-3 from 2 seasons ago. 

 

Y-3 SS11 Exclusive.jpgY-3 SS11 Excluisve II.jpg

post #1294 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by dantebykiko View Post

not the whole collection, just the looks that in my opinion can be worn easily with his mainline. also the opening of s/s 08 it's quite nice.

 

Y3_SS08_0005.jpgY3_SS08_0019.jpg

Precisely the point. If one is shown these 2 pictures and is told they were from a YYPH Runway he will believe it. 

post #1295 of 5958
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivwri View Post

Yeah I agree that this shirt will probably not work for people below a certain height. Having said that, I think one of the barriers for a lot of people is that they find it a bit difficult to embrace that oversized look. There's a very fine line between looking like you are just wearing clothes that are bigger than you and looking like you belong in stuff that fits like that. A lot of that I feel has to do with attitude, specifically nonchalance. And of course, like you said choosing the right pieces for one's frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

yeah, as asobu and others have mentioned, length is probably the most important consideration to get the style right, although shoulders should be not too wide for short guys. One thing that has struck me after looking at lots of Yohji stuff recently is that his silhouettes aren't really meant to follow the body shape at all, but are cut to be designs on their own terms. Usually with tailored clothing, you would have something made or altered to adhere to an individual body or maybe even "enhance" certain elements of a physique. Seems like Yohji's stuff (and many other designers) is meant to keep its own shape and not reference the body that much. The looser or "oversized" fit keeps the body disguised in a way and lets the design be the hero.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Well we all have our definition of what fits and what doesn't. For me I have absolutely no problem with any oversized pants, wide shoulders, roomy chest and occasionally long length of certain pieces, however I have a big thing about sleeves ( as Asobu will confirm ). I cannot put up with sleeves that are too short ( rarely on Yohji ) or way too long ( unless they can be folded, buttonless sleeves for example ). So sleeves that way pass the knuckles give me an overall feeling that the blazer/coat doesn't " belong " to me; they will bother me that much that I will tailor them to " fit " me more. So sleeves are a deal breaker for me.....

I think this is an interesting discussion, but I'm not really clear on my thoughts on this. I agree that there is a line where stuff looks off (i guess) or intentionally oversized/non-fitting, but that line is surely very fleeting, in that it shifts with our changing perception, and is obviously very subjective. For the general, non-interested party (general public? I dunno) pretty much any YY collection would look ill-fitting. I disucssed this with Ivwri before but my guess is that even a lot of members on SW&D who generally appreciate the YY looks posted in WAYWT would still slam on pretty much any given look from, say, SS07 if it was presented in WAYWT without the runway frame of reference, and possibly even within this (no judgement here). SS07 is just an example, but it's a pretty recent collection and that stuff is still intentionally and extremely precisely cut/patterened (he's called "Mr Cut" after all, apparently). Going back even further, the older collections (mid 90's to 02/03) would overall pretty much garner the same thoughts across the boards. Patterns and cuts have definitely changed over the years (shouders have narrowed quite a bit in general) but in essence he's still working in the same space. I think here we often want things to look a little "off" or playing with proportions but in general we still want to keep the fit within a certain framework to apprecitate it - once the balance is "too" off we think it doesn't look good anymore, but isn't this part of what he has been doing all along? I'm not sure if I'm coming across clearly here, I'm not really sure myself of what I want to say, lol.

I personally think that some of the shorter guys look best in Yohji, for me it somehow nails the look I think - wire.artist looked astonishing in person, the balance of what he was wearing was just so good on him. I do like it when a coat is very very long (like david alluded to) or sleeves are on the overly long side.

For his SS98 show he referenced his one-size approach. The theme was something along the line of "one size for all of mankind" where he showed all the clothes in the same size but with models in various shapes

S/S 1998 examples (Click to show)

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post #1296 of 5958
Haha, it's getting more and more interesting. So it's not just oversizeness but HOW MUCH oversizeness one's willing to accept to define fit. I will add fabrics play a huge part in achieving the " look " . Soft hand materials give more " space " in motion, complementing the general oversized cut of the garment. What I mean is two people of the same height; one skinny and the other stocky, will achieve a similar look wearing the same oversized blazer with a flowing fabric.
post #1297 of 5958
I'm on my phone so I'll keep it short, but there is of course plenty of ways to "modernize" or re-contextualise these older pieces too. This recent, relatively popular tumblr pic is one example - fittingly i'm pretty sure this could be a s/s 98 jacket (given it is yohji):

JddDE.png

I'm also looking for a jacket like this ! Looking at it again, this actually this isn't far from how some of his mid-90s spring looks looked like
post #1298 of 5958
that ss98 was incredible drool.gif
post #1299 of 5958
Thread Starter 
I agree that I actually prefer Yohji on some shorter guys myself. That whole slouchy/kinda homeless/fit really appeals to me in some way, hehe. Again I will just say that it is all about the attitude for me. My appreciation of Yohji's collections and clothing items in general has altered what I consider to be a good fit to be honest.

That SS98 collection is indeed incredible and I wish he would do a new iteration of that. Would be nice to see what the passage of time has done to some of his older concepts and whether he would approach them in the same way.

I do wish he got such varied models for his women's collections though. Would be great to see shorter and chubbier women in his clothing as well instead of the usual slim and tall model.
post #1300 of 5958
Inside the Yohji empire, Limi Feu does use models of different statues for her Runway shows. Her designs are amazing ...... and fun nod[1].gif
post #1301 of 5958
me too, ivwri, but using bigger girls is probably a harder sell in the women's market, than the men's. ^^

thanks for posting that 98 collection, asobu. the one size for all idea is pretty fun. and i think it kinda gets back to the idea that his clothes disguise/hide the body (vs. enhance it / show it off).

these two looks are dope. (Click to show)
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post #1302 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidlee388 View Post

Inside the Yohji empire, Limi Feu does use models of different statues for her Runway shows. Her designs are amazing ...... and fun nod[1].gif

Indeed! I really like the shows I have seen so far. Different vibe but some pretty cool stuff. I am hoping to pick up some of her stuff for my wife next month icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post

me too, ivwri, but using bigger girls is probably a harder sell in the women's market, than the men's. ^^
thanks for posting that 98 collection, asobu. the one size for all idea is pretty fun. and i think it kinda gets back to the idea that his clothes disguise/hide the body (vs. enhance it / show it off).

these two looks are dope. (Click to show)
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Hmm, I wonder though. All this talk about how skinny models are and creating a better body image for women could at least provide an angle into the whole thing. Would be so cool and would stand out during PFW if for nothing else than that a designer of his calibre did it. Would be pretty ballsy too. Like davidlee said, Limi does it and it works great.

I also wonder why Yohji seemed to use more black models in his earlier collections than in his more recent stuff, maybe they changed agencies?

EDIT: We should put up more Limi stuff actually. Anyone wanna volunteer? hehe
post #1303 of 5958

Two that are in my wife's collection:-

 

Limi Feu SS12 Dress.jpg

Limi Feu SS12 Rayon Dress

Stupendous fabric and construction, body is heavily pleated ( hard to see in picture ) and sleeves have " foam " rings that keep the shape, superb.

 

Limi Feu AW11 Cardigan.jpg

Limi Feu AW11 Wool Oversized Cardigan 

Note the use of short model made this piece becoming a dress almost, super drop-shouldered construction, very 80s Yohji :)

post #1304 of 5958
Thread Starter 
Limi Feu AW11-12 Collection

post #1305 of 5958

i will try and take couple of photos of howard tangye, he it's womenswear path tutor in my college (csm). he it's little shorter than me 1,75m and wears yohji head-to-toe. seeing him everyday probably it's the reason i turn to yohji clothes. so effortless and timeless.

 

http://www.howardtangye.com/Drawings.html 

 

http://victoriajonesillustration.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/howard-tangye-drawing-masterclass.html

 

also i've got my new yohji jackets which are quite old (pre 2000) will post the fits, so the discussion can go on and on and hopefully will encourage people who are "afraid" of yohji fit and maybe to try it themselves. 

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