Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread) - Page 8

^ yeah, I really like the blend of east/west especially in that look. that kimono print is very cool.

it's clothing as armor, but a very soft version of it.

yes please!

On another note I really need to keep an eye out for some Yohji trousers. There were dsome navy ones on ebay a while back I wish i'd bought. They'd have been perfect with my summer Harnden.

Yohji's team designs Y-3 with input from adidas, adidas handles all sourcing/production and works with Yohji's team to incorporate some of the technology that adidas uses in other lines. There is also a working relationship between Yohji Yamamoto homme etc and adidas. For example in the US adidas actually handles sales and distributes Yohji's lines in the US and Canada.

Dirk Schoenberger is the creative director for adidas Sport Style which includes Y-3, adidas Originals, SLVR, the collaboration with Porsche Design and others. He has an impressive design background and is involved in all of these projects to varying degrees. The SLVR line probably shows off his design influence the most.

Several years back there weer some fierce y-3 takes on adidas F50 footy boots, including tiger head design. Algot a pair from gilt sale but I'd probably not wear them to play as I prefer minimalist white design

Unrelated -- I've just read about a third of the yohji dear bomb on this flight, so far it reads like aic's stream of consciousness , I hope it takes a turn for the better. If this is a glimpse of I'm I find I care little for any of it, aside from his anti-fit philosophy of shattering superficial tradition. Which is the most important , after liking voluminous design, in my case.

I'm not really into Y-3 so I don't know much of the details nor have I seen many of the collections. I've always prefered the adidas collabs within the main lines, which are different from Y3. The collaboration with Adidas started in 2001 as far as I know and was first incorporated in his femme collection AW 01 with magnificent results. This is why they did the 10 year collab specials for the AW11 YYPH collection. He also did some sneakers and for the ss02 collection for women, and after that started with his collab sneakers for men in YYPH aw02 which was his first mens collection to feature any adidas collabs, some of which still are the most sought after models. I think this was before the Y-3 line started?

The tiger shoes weren't Y-3 but part of the YYPH AW06 collection: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

That collection was pretty stellar for jackets and outerwear, btw.

Personally I always liked the models based off the adidas gsg9 boots he did for ss08 in full leather and aw08 in canvas/leather iterations. Great shape for his clothes.

that's odd, i always saw them sold as y-3 (for example on gilt)

That's possibly how they're marketed/sold in the west, since they're part of an Adidas collab. I'm quite sure they're not part of the Y-3 line though, and that there are no markings or logos referring to Y-3 on any of the products or boxes. At least for the YYPH x adidas stuff I've seen. I do wonder if there's any difference in how and where they're produced.


Ivwri, sorry I have no idea who produces the mainline footwear, or have been throughout the years. I don't even know if they've changed production house or not. I've heard of some quality issues with a few products like the aw09 frankenstein boots but all the footwear I've handled personally have been great and the few pairs I have have been holding up well. The object dyed y's ss08 sneaks might be my most worn pair of shoes and they're still holding up magnificently.

He has done several collabs for footwear though, like with Doc Martens, George Cox, Trickers, Red Wings and Hiromu Takahara (designed some of the aw06 shoes/boots).


edit: speaking of the tiger F50's, they came delivered in a cage, lol Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Edited by asobu - 1/9/12 at 9:40am

^those are Y's for men ss09, but perhaps that was just a typo?

Speaking of SS00 though, he did some cool fuller cut pants for that collection. Still regret not picking up a pair of these when I had the chance






and these are incredible, especially the 3 btn suit with the sandals Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but not having owned a pair of Yohji pants (yet), I'm a little confused about the fit details. A while back I was interested in some YYPH pants on ebay... I think they were a size 3. However the waist circumference was about 40". I asked the seller if there were any button mechanisms on the inside of the waistband to adjust the waist and all he said was "wear a belt." Although I like the "one-size" idea, do you really just wear a belt? Does that lay correctly on the body? I may as well get a pair of big black pants from a second hand store and belt them...

i haven't read it all either, for the same reason you posted.

The term one-sized gets thrown around a lot but in fact very few pieces in a certain collection are produced in just one size, if any at all. The garments that are generally one sized are knits and t-shirts, those are often just produced in sz 3 (roughly equivalent to M/48). Some pants are one sized but those are quite rare, at least for the last 10 years. The ss08 ronin pants with the button construction is the one pair I can think of from the last few years, though there might be a few others I've missed. In fact, he's done several pants with clever button construction on the waistband that still came in different sizes (for instance aw04).

However, post-03/04 the pants are cut quite generously in the waist. It's not totally uncommon for pants in sz 3 to measure 18"+ in the waist - though there are exceptions of course - they are indeed meant to be bunched up with a belt or worn with suspenders, and they do fall correctly on the body. The specific pair (I think) you refer to definitely came in sz 2 and 4 as well, though it should be mentioned that those are some of the widest pants he's cut during the last few years and might not be the best place to start if you've never worn Yohji before. The typical YYPH cut is the wide pants with drawstring in the waist, those often come in the regular size set 2/3/4 and are huge in the waist. The ones on LN-CC this season measured 43" in the waist for a sz 2 (S).


About sizing in general:

The regular size run is 2, 3 and 4. This aw11 season they changed it up a bit and started selling 1 (XS) in the west, before those was usually only sold in japan in very small numbers. There are also sz 5 and 6 for the western market (not sold in Japan), those are also quite rare. A sz 6 is never ever a one size item though I've seen some sellers claim them to be.

A good way to approach Yohji sizing is to think about height rather than width, if you're tall you should probably size up one so the inseam is long enough, no matter how the waist is cut. This goes for jackets as well, you get the intended balance in length and sleeve length. It's a common "mistake" to size down because the measurements look big, remember that it's often better to size up than down when it comes to Yohji.


Also note that this refers to the mainline, the Y's pants are often cut considerably slimmer in the waist (with exceptions as always).