Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

By the way p^4, that's a real shame that you seem to have had trouble with your Yohji buying. Pretty strange though. Anyway, older collections do tend to run much bigger generally speaking and you should size more by height than by waist size (belts are your friend), so if you are going with a size 2 because of your waist size as opposed to your height, I would change that. I think I remember you saying you were about Parker's height? Maybe see what he has been picking up size wise (I think he went with a 3 in that Napoleon jacket for instance).

Should be okay though as you like in NYC right? So Atelier and IF are in your area, should make trying stuff on a lot easier. And once you get a good idea which size usually works for you, you can use that a SA general guide and then ask on here whenever you want to try out auctions for pieces.

I'm 5'8, but 32 waist, normally a 38US (48 sometimes 46) jacket, probably stradling size 2 and 3. I think it really depends on the particular item though. I have a pair of size 2 pants from SS09 that are larger in the waist than a size 3 from the same season. And oddly, even though I ordered a size 3 for the Napoleon jacket, I realized later they had actually sent a size 2. It fits almost too well ;-) so... it really just depends. I would err larger and just embrace the volume, especially with pants. for jackets, I'd look at the presentation image to see if it's meant to be a slimmer look (like SS13) or a larger look (like many of the others). I try to keep in mind that Yohji quote about wishing men's clothing didn't even come in sizes. also, that there's beauty in imperfection. ;-)



Parker said:

I'm 5'8, but 32 waist, normally a 38US (48 sometimes 46) jacket, probably stradling size 2 and 3. I think it really depends on the particular item though. I have a pair of size 2 pants from SS09 that are larger in the waist than a size 3 from the same season. And oddly, even though I ordered a size 3 for the Napoleon jacket, I realized later they had actually sent a size 2. It fits almost too well ;-) so... it really just depends. I would err larger and just embrace the volume, especially with pants. for jackets, I'd look at the presentation image to see if it's meant to be a slimmer look (like SS13) or a larger look (like many of the others). I try to keep in mind that Yohji quote about wishing men's clothing didn't even come in sizes. also, that there's beauty in imperfection. ;-)

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Completely agree with this and erring on the larger side than going smaller. Takes some getting used to, but once one gets used to it, makes things a whole lot easier. Folding and rolling up sleeves and cuffs is all part of the charm



Ivwri said:

Completely agree with this and erring on the larger side than going smaller. Takes some getting used to, but once one gets used to it, makes things a whole lot easier. Folding and rolling up sleeves and cuffs is all part of the charm

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Or find a good tailor if you object to folding sleeves and pants Make it your own! I always fold pants cos it gives a certain casualness which in turn goes very well with sneakers, But I do like to tailor my blazers' sleeves ( always too long, I call long sleeves wife - unfriendly cos it's awkward holding hands with the sleeves in the way haha ) if needed.

I also personally think that Runway pictures MAY not be an absolute guide to how a piece should fit because those professional models are all 1.85m plus and stick thin.

you guys make me very happy, it was not long ago when it was a weird sight to see more than a couple of weird guys talking about yohji online.

funny enough I was wearing something very similar to valter's outfit. same coat, ss08 hybrid vest/shirt in navy, ss12 look 10 hakamas, ss10 black straw hat and some bare ankle ss09 black leather sneakers. Hakama's are so easy to wear...I think the key for me is toning them down a little using some sneakers (i wish i could justify buying those navy ss12 object dyed ones)

I do like them with the antique footwear there though, thumbs up

Awesome look Valter. I remember the earlier pic you posted wearing much the same outfit, and I remember thinking how cool the whole outfit looked. There is definitely something 19th century about most of the outfit, but the hakamas simultaneously fit perfectly with the rest, and also give an unexpected spin to the whole thing. To echo something that Ivwri said earlier, I think it's a real pity that men's clothing these days tends to stay within very narrow boundaries, and I really appreciate what Yohji does in pushing these boundaries. Now that I think of it, with the combination of severe black long coat and waistcoat etc. and the Japanese hakamas, you could pass for one of those globetrotting Jesuit missionaries who travelled to Japan in past centuries Or, if you add a couple of six shooters at your belt, you could be a really badass character in a Western, called "The Preacher." But all kidding aside, I think this is one of the best images I've seen in this thread of someone really making the Yohji look their own in a unique way.

good that i keep the important things in my closet.
forgot it but found it again.

yy fw 98/99

Oh, wow. That's beautiful and rare. You can't stop now...

rolling up sleeves and pant legs I don't mind at all. it's the rest of the body that's proved tricky. :tounge: what's stopping me is I don't want to spend a lot of money on pieces I feel halfhearted about. it's alright though. i'll figure it out. being in New York does help, but there are still only a few places to try stuff, and their buys vary widely (IF boutique doesn't carry men's Yohji, by the way. not sure why not). barney's, for instance, got no pants this spring, except the gaucho coverups, which would be a tough entry point for a Yohji neophyte.

by the way, some good pics here of SS2011: http://www.jponfashionspeed.com/2010_09_01_archive.html (scroll down and then click the images to enlarge)

Esox beautiful photos! thanks for uploading.

Also I'm starting to think Yohji-san shares my fascination with redheads

here we go again.

yy fw 99/00

pics are very big! have fun!
!

^ sweet. m/m paris art direction is cool.

LN-CC has some AW12 pieces up on their site. Looks good, but prices are about what you would expect...

esox thanks for the beautiful images! All lovely looks!

Price is as expected......It's either sale or Japanese proxy for me - -

So apparently the coat and blazer that LN-CC puts up are all from Costume D'homme line....Interesting....Guess they're encouraged by the sales figures from past two collections. I'm still waiting to see more outerwear pieces since there are a lot strong ones this season.



Parker said:

^ sweet. m/m paris art direction is cool.

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is m/m the label/company that collaborated with kanye to make those silk scarves based on g.condo art?
http://shop.mmparis.com/categories/kanye-west-scarves/