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Fit of pants (rlpl, kiton, brioni, ..)

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hi. I'm looking for pants/slacks on eBay, from e.g. Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Kiton, Brioni. Since there isn't any stores carrying these labels where I live, I'd be interested in information regarding the fit of their respective pants. I'm quite slim, and find Polo RL to be too wide in the thighs. Does RLPL have the same fit? What about italian high-end labels like Kiton and Brioni? Marcus
post #2 of 6
I think we're all waiting for Andrew to post here... Hard to beat his post on the suits/sport coats, though...
post #3 of 6
I have much more experience with suit trousers than separates but I'm guessing the fit is similar. In my experience RLPL pleated dress trousers are rather full-cut while the flat front models are slimmer. In my experience Brioni cuts their trousers quite slim and Kiton trousers are basically a standard cut. The problem is that all these brands do a variety of cuts so it's hard to generalize. I have the opposite problem - I need full-cut trousers. When I'm looking at a pair on ebay I ask the seller to measure the leg width for me. Ask for the width at your inseam measurement, and at the knee. If you specify points to measure (x inches from the crotch) you can compare the measurements to trousers that fit you well. Hope that helped.
post #4 of 6
I've found that two views of the pants to be very helpful/indicative of the cut: 1) full length view, folded like you're going to put them in a clip hanger (I don't know how to describe it accurately, but it would follow the crease of the trousers, if any.) Since you know the waist size, it's easy to see if the line of the trousers is tapered (usually slim fitting) or straight (full). 2) full length again, but this time folded like a pair of jeans. Lay trousers out flat so pockets are on the left right, fly is facing you, seat behind (no pun intended). Fold along the fly, folding the waistband in half so the two pockets are face/face. Smooth everything out and lay flat. In this view, the fit of the seat (butt, thigh area) can be determined. A large curve (like a "J") in the crotch along is usually full fitting, less curve = less area/less material, slim fitting. Both are somewhat difficult to visualize in words so I suggest trying it out with some of your own pants to get the idea if you haven't already . I've found the above two views extremely useful with jeans - by folding them as above I can usually tell if the fit will appeal to me without even trying them on. Another thing I've found helpful is to visualize in terms of pattern pieces, if you can see the seams in a photo it's the perfect way to know whether something will fit or not. This is also helpful for any alterations that may need to be done.
post #5 of 6
post #6 of 6
Tell me about it. I'm 6'4" and most of my height is in the torso (my inseam is only 32.") So I need REALLY high rise pants. Nothing (short of 1 or 2 pairs of Purple Labels) has enough rise for me. So I tend to ignore rise because all pants look more or less bad on me if I'm not wearing a jacket. You have all heard me say that I don't like to wear a shirt tucked in without a jacket. I have to admit that there is quite a bit of bias in that opinion as none of my pants fit well enough to carry it off. For those that aren't sure - rise is the distance from the crotch to the top of the waistband.
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