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Help me identify these vintage shoes and re-sole?

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 

Soo....   I've lurked for a while but have always been too intimidated to post.  I bought these nearly new at a thrift store in LA for $2 about 10 years ago.  Wore them every day as my work shoe until the salt from a couple too many midwestern winters took it's toll.  Since then they have been my daily "casual shoe."  I've searched and understand that I'll probably be punished for either letting these go or wearing such junk but.... I'd like to have them re-soled since they have been through so much with me.  Most of the damage/patina has been caused by drunken misadventure (some involving fire) and I'm just not ready to give them up.  They might be a junk/cheap shoe?  I'm not sure but at the time I only knew that shoes with a goodyear-looking sole and full leather construction were usually good quality.

 

What brand of shoe is this?  What kind of sole?  What do I look for to find someone that can re-sole them and not screw them up?

 

Here's the unique details that I know:

 

Green stitching on the inside.  This is probably the biggest clue?  They have 5 nails in the arches.  No other visible markings that I can notice besides the size info.  Crappy cell-phone pictures below.

 

20111214_174119.jpg20111214_174208.jpg 20111214_174305.jpg20111214_174412.jpg

post #2 of 27
Welcome to Styleforum.
The '5 nails in the arches' clue and the numbering inside leads me to believe they are old Florsheim Imperials or Royal Imperials (circa 1970's or 80's). They may also possibly be made by Hanover or Nettleton but I would wager money on them being Florsheim.
The sole is a 360° Storm welted double leather sole.

Here is a photo from an old 1975 Florsheim catalogue. I believe your shoes to be the 'Kenmoor' on the right of that photo (right-click 'open in new window' to see full sized photo)

277

It would cost about $160 to fully resole these, provided the integrity of the leather uppers and welt are acceptable.
It may cost even more to have the uppers refinished (provided you wanted that, and the leather integrity)
Your shoes also feature a cushioned insole. Doubtful if this could be replaced but it could be cosmetically improved. At what cost, I don't know.
Our member 'Nick V' on Styleforum could give you a better assessment on the condition and feasibility of a recraft.
Hope this helps.
post #3 of 27
Florsheim Imperials, 100%. The green stitching is indeed a dead giveaway, that was a signifier that the shoes were part of their top end line. They're sure as hell not a junk shoes, those are a couple steps above anything made in the US today outside of custom.

And the 160 quoted would be for doing it right. Double oak sole, and not a quick job on the machine (which would ruin the welt) but actual, attentive work by someone skilled. You should do it.

As for the uppers, I would slap some mink oil on them, which would condition the leather while still keeping them casual. I'd also work some into the insoles.

And you should absolutely contact Nick V.
post #4 of 27
With respect, and just in case a re-dye is being considered, I would recommend holding off on the mink oil until Nick V or another reputable cobbler had a chance to work his magic on them first.
post #5 of 27
Vintage Florsheim Imperials without a doubt. I love the way this pair looks. They've had a life. As others have said, these were very well made shoes and if you still enjoy them, they are worth restoring. i wouldn't try to make the uppers look new by over-finishing. They are what "distressed" shoes can only aspire to resemble. These are the real deal.
post #6 of 27

Not here to offer any identification assistance or advice—looks like you got some solid stuff already—but rather to request that you post some "after" pics, presuming you go forward with the resole and conditioning. You've got some excellent "before" pics here. This could prove to be a great example of what a skilled cobbler can accomplish.

 

BTW, I got a real kick out of "drunken misadventure (some involving fire)." Elaborate, if the mood strikes.

 

- K

post #7 of 27
Thread Starter 

You guys are awesome!  After googling florsheim imperials I found some photos of a green oval inside of the heel....  My shoes have that!  (Even though the green stitching inside of the oval is completely gone.)  Very surprised that I've never noticed that detail before!  Even more surprising is that when these shoes wore out as my "dress/work" shoes I replaced them with a pair of Florsheim Chatoms.  Unknown to me, I've become a lifetime Florsheim wearer.....

 

I'm also glad that I wasn't ridiculed that much for continuing to wear these on a daily basis.  Up until my feet came through the bottom they did see regular use.  I do use some superfeet insoles but left them out of these photos since they weren't going to help identify them.  I'll get in touch with Nick V after the new year and see how to proceed.  I have a cobbler down the street from me but I'm terrified that someone might try to "restore" these shoes and completely undermine the 10 years that I've already spent destroying them.   ;)

 

Winters up here (northern WI) are typically spent with my feet alternating between my Red Wing Iron Rangers and (on bad days) Sorel 1964s. 

 

Oh... and the drunken misadventures that really gave these shoes some "character" involved large bonfires and contests to see who could walk through them the slowest.  You'd be surprised what a healthy dose of jim beam, selvedge denim and $2 florsheim imperials can endure. 

post #8 of 27
It's funny, on the one hand those are completely destroyed and beyond repair. But on the other hand, i am rooting for you to succeed with this project.
post #9 of 27
If you could have the uppers re-done with a clear finish, these will look amazing. The wear and tear would be visible through the finish, but you'd be able to polish them up having a shine on top of the patina. Also, considering your location, perhaps you'd want to have a dainite sole put in instead of leather soles.
post #10 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by wotan2525 View Post

I'll get in touch with Nick V after the new year and see how to proceed. 

Remember to post some "after" pictures.
post #11 of 27
How did you not wear through the sole before this? You wore them almost every day for 10 years!
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by kungapa View Post

perhaps you'd want to have a dainite sole put in instead of leather soles.

if, vibram is the way to go, imo. actually none of these work in bonfires, though.
post #13 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

if, vibram is the way to go, imo. actually none of these work in bonfires, though.

Bonfires do indeed tend to wear hard on shoes...
post #14 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kungapa View Post

If you could have the uppers re-done with a clear finish, these will look amazing. The wear and tear would be visible through the finish, but you'd be able to polish them up having a shine on top of the patina. Also, considering your location, perhaps you'd want to have a dainite sole put in instead of leather soles.


This is hard to visualize.  Something about them being shiny just wouldn't seem right to me?

post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by viator View Post

How did you not wear through the sole before this? You wore them almost every day for 10 years!


I think it's because being in northern WI, there isn't a lot of miles put on shoes.  If I lived in a city, I'm sure they would have worn out much sooner. 

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