Engineered Garments SS12 - Page 53

Originally Posted by hansj 

I think it's historical. That's just what I like about EG. There are references everywhere and just done right. Lot of references to the twenties and thirties, the great area of menswear![/quote

There are many historical aspects to Menswear. If you follow costume over the ages, you will see an evolution of the coat post civil war, from a coat that was very long (Duster) with several buttons. As time went on, and at the advent of the automobile, we saw coats get shorter and fewer buttons.
Side vents were introduced, as the gentry wore their coats while riding their horses and the side vent was a function of accommodating the saddle.
Four and three button coats were a fashion of the beginning of the century and three button was the most popular. During the 20's and 30's we saw the vents go away during the Hollywood days and the introduction of the two button coat. During this time double breasted was also introduced, being that it's prior use was only seen as a military uniform. Over the past hundred years, the stance of the button placement has moved up and down the coat like womens skirt and dress hem lines. The 80's somewhat emulated the 30's with deep button stance and broad shoulders which conjured an exaggerated masculine silhouette. Presently we have the higher stance of the two button with smaller shoulder expression and more natural lines. This gives the jacket a longer skirt which shortens the torso hence giving the lean proportions that is currently the fashion. The three button jacket however remains true to is original design with all the influences of its Anglo features, however I'm not a fan of the top button buttoned for it breaks the geometry of the front view which gives the body it's shape. I have not purposely left out the Ivy movement but I have. Its significant contribution to me was purely a rebellious and political one, which one could say is anti style, There are those who embrace it and they've even written books on how to achieve it. I'm not a historian and those that want to correct me, feel free to do so.