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The "One Suit": Favorite OTR Suit Cut?

post #1 of 22
12/13/11 at 5:23am
Thread Starter 
What are your "One Suit" picks?

Lately I've been gravitating towards the Samuelsohn Gable cut. Probably the best value full canvas suit out there. Cut fairly slim. The soft shoulders and double vents are a necessity for me. Wish the button stance was a bit lower, but I can live with it. Super 120s fabric is awesome too.

Wish I could get a closet full of them for cheap. Got my current one for an absolute song.
Edited by jrd617 - 12/13/11 at 5:38am
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post #2 of 22
12/13/11 at 7:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

What are your "One Suit" picks?
Lately I've been gravitating towards the Samuelsohn Gable cut. Probably the best value full canvas suit out there. Cut fairly slim. The soft shoulders and double vents are a necessity for me. Wish the button stance was a bit lower, but I can live with it. Super 120s fabric is awesome too.
Wish I could get a closet full of them for cheap. Got my current one for an absolute song.

curious to know where to find these in the US? I know Harry Rosen in Canada has been carrying Samuelsohn for many years.

I have a couple cuts I like OTR. Canali 14000 series drop 7/8, RLBL Anthony, and Z Zegna drop 7.
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post #3 of 22
12/13/11 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

What are your "One Suit" picks?
Lately I've been gravitating towards the Samuelsohn Gable cut. Probably the best value full canvas suit out there. Cut fairly slim. The soft shoulders and double vents are a necessity for me. Wish the button stance was a bit lower, but I can live with it. Super 120s fabric is awesome too.
Wish I could get a closet full of them for cheap. Got my current one for an absolute song.

Samuelsohn is a great value but the reality for me is even their slimmest (Gable) is still rather generous in sizing especially the waist. They definitely still have a stout gentleman in mind when designing these.
I have 3 or 4 that I bought at Harry's a year or so ago and that are still awaiting a major slimming surgery before they can be reasonably worn.

Right now the only suit that Is truly somewhat slim is Canali 19000. I think they call it Anthony but even these when the fit in shoulders is good always have collar gap. Same thing with Tom Ford B cut though the waist is nearly perfect.

I can summarize by saying that good quality RTW suits are stil sized fairly big. Only the cheaper designer labels have really slim cuts.
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post #4 of 22
12/13/11 at 8:42am
The Sammies [4] I've owned were awesome but I sold them all in favor of Polo. I won't say which cut because they all come in different configurations but my favorite aspects of them are:

Side vents
Slim sleeves
Soft shoulders
Flat fronted pants
Side adjusters
Brace buttons
Wool/cash blend fabrics
Patterns
Price

That and the only alterations I need are to cuff the pants which I do myself.

Profit
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post #5 of 22
12/13/11 at 9:22am
If I can afford anything because I only need one suit, it would be Tom Ford

The style and fit is close to perfection for excellent MTM and it looks youngful and playful
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post #6 of 22
12/13/11 at 10:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post

Samuelsohn is a great value but the reality for me is even their slimmest (Gable) is still rather generous in sizing especially the waist. They definitely still have a stout gentleman in mind when designing these.
I have 3 or 4 that I bought at Harry's a year or so ago and that are still awaiting a major slimming surgery before they can be reasonably worn.

Yeah, I've sort of filled out for the better recently so the Samuelsohn Gable cut works on me now. A couple months ago it would have been too generous, but now it's just right for a business setting. I wouldn't say they're built for stout people, though.

I also outgrew my BB Fitzgerald's in 38R in the shoulders recently. I have literally no range of motion anymore. Probably gonna sell them all and convert to a couple new Samuelsohn's.
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post #7 of 22
12/13/11 at 10:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viral View Post

I have a couple cuts I like OTR. Canali 14000 series drop 7/8, RLBL Anthony, and Z Zegna drop 7.

Can't stand the heavy shoulders on the Anthony.
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post #8 of 22
12/13/11 at 11:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Yeah, I've sort of filled out for the better recently so the Samuelsohn Gable cut works on me now. A couple months ago it would have been too generous, but now it's just right for a business setting. I wouldn't say they're built for stout people, though.
I also outgrew my BB Fitzgerald's in 38R in the shoulders recently. I have literally no range of motion anymore. Probably gonna sell them all and convert to a couple new Samuelsohn's.

If you do plan to sell the 38R Fitzs, I would be interested.
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post #9 of 22
12/13/11 at 12:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Can't stand the heavy shoulders on the Anthony.

it's not for everybody, but it works for me nod[1].gif

Curious to see if they will roll out any new models. Anthony seems to be their one and only suit fit.
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post #10 of 22
12/13/11 at 11:21pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquidus View Post

If you do plan to sell the 38R Fitzs, I would be interested.

PM'd. Haven't heard back from you. I've got one NWT and one worn once.
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post #11 of 22
12/14/11 at 7:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

What are your "One Suit" picks?
Lately I've been gravitating towards the Samuelsohn Gable cut. Probably the best value full canvas suit out there. Cut fairly slim. The soft shoulders and double vents are a necessity for me. Wish the button stance was a bit lower, but I can live with it. Super 120s fabric is awesome too.
Wish I could get a closet full of them for cheap. Got my current one for an absolute song.

I recently got a Samuelsohn 'Arnold' suit. It is the best fitting suit I have right now.

Got a BB Fitz Summer suit on the cheap during their clearance sales last year. It does not ft as well as the Samuelsohn.
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post #12 of 22
12/14/11 at 8:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bellyhungry View Post

I recently got a Samuelsohn 'Arnold' suit. It is the best fitting suit I have right now.
Got a BB Fitz Summer suit on the cheap during their clearance sales last year. It does not ft as well as the Samuelsohn.

Should that read "Arno"? Yesterday night I looked at my sammys which I thought were Gables and it turns out they are "Arno". Anyone know how these differ from Gable?
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post #13 of 22
12/14/11 at 4:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post

Should that read "Arno"? Yesterday night I looked at my sammys which I thought were Gables and it turns out they are "Arno". Anyone know how these differ from Gable?

You are right, I stand corrected.
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post #14 of 22
12/14/11 at 4:55pm
For something that i would stick with for my entire life i would go for the Brioni Nomentano. But as of right now Tom Ford Basic Base A but im pretty sure i will outgrow this eventually.
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post #15 of 22
12/15/11 at 8:46pm
Attolini fits me perfectly, no tailoring needed (except for hemming the trousers and adding working buttonholes, of course).
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