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How to pick the right cloth for bespoke...? (Harrisons vs Minnis vs Fox)

post #1 of 6
12/10/11 at 1:34am
Thread Starter 
So, I've finally decided to go the bespoke route once again, but now face the pretty well impossible task of picking cloths. I'm going with either Minnis Crown Classic, Harrisons Fine Classics or Cru Classe. Which one of those would be the best compromise between hard-wearing and handle? So far I'm leaning towards the Fine Classics as it's a 11oz Pure Wool.

But the larger conflict is: Stripes. I'm looking to have a three-piece, peak lapel single breasted made up in a stripe but have to decide how a 3/4" rope stripe is going to look versus a 5/8" ropestripe.

Does anyone have pictures of suits made up in those stripe widths? I saw a picture of Vox's Steed DB and thought I'd quite fancy that cloth.

For those that are interested, I'm looking at Crown Classic 2317, 2318, 2319 and Fine Classics 47306 and 47304.

I'm going to be picking one; using it day to day in a fairly formal office environment (banking) as well as perhaps putting the overall cut into a menswear offering later on. I'm also hoping that 370gm/11-12Oz cloth can be used year round :S

Lastly, does anyone have experience with Fox's flannels? I found the site online and ordered samples; they seem to be of a very nice handle...superior to Harrisons Flannels which are 10-15GBP more per metre.
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post #2 of 6
12/10/11 at 2:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbig 

But the larger conflict is: Stripes. I'm looking to have a three-piece, peak lapel single breasted made up in a stripe but have to decide how a 3/4" rope stripe is going to look versus a 5/8" ropestripe.

I would advise you to consider a notch lapel 3-pc or a DB instead of a SB peak especially with patterns on it. It is too much of a designer-y look these days and then there is the issue of stripes see below for details.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbig 
Does anyone have pictures of suits made up in those stripe widths? I saw a picture of Vox's Steed DB and thought I'd quite fancy that cloth.

If you are referring to his brown DB that is woolen flannel from Minnis and there is a world of difference between the texture of that and the worsteds that you have listed. If you are referring to some other suit then my mistake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbig 
For those that are interested, I'm looking at Crown Classic 2317, 2318, 2319 and Fine Classics 47306 and 47304.

Can't see Fine classics but I am sure I probably have seen them in swatches one time or another. 2317 & 2319 are both great. 2318 not so much. These are VERY city-of-London stripes and if you are in US (which I don't think you are) you may want to reconsider the strength / visibility of the stripe again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbig 
I'm going to be picking one; using it day to day in a fairly formal office environment (banking) as well as perhaps putting the overall cut into a menswear offering later on. I'm also hoping that 370gm/11-12Oz cloth can be used year round :S

No such thing as year round in bespoke fabrics unless you live near bay area US. Other than that the best is 3 season and 11-12 oz sounds perfect for that to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbig 
Lastly, does anyone have experience with Fox's flannels? I found the site online and ordered samples; they seem to be of a very nice handle...superior to Harrisons Flannels which are 10-15GBP more per metre.

They are indeed very nice and have a genuine English Flannel feel to them. Patterns and range is always limited compared to other bigger merchants like Harrisons but they (fox) are a mill also so price to quality ratio is VERY high. The flannels have a softer hand to them than those of say Minnis but then all flannels mostly pale in comparison to the minnis flannels book. My vote would be for Fox flannels over Harrisons mainly for the price vs quality issue. Of course, I would pick Fox Flannels any day over the offerings of Scabal or Holland & Sherry. But that is just me.

English Flannels (if you are a traditionalist)... must be rough and soft in feel but NEVER smooth and soft like so many of the luxury flannels.
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post #3 of 6
12/10/11 at 2:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tutee View Post

I would advise you to consider a notch lapel 3-pc or a DB instead of a SB peak especially with patterns on it. It is too much of a designer-y look these days and then there is the issue of stripes see below for details.

If you are referring to his brown DB that is woolen flannel from Minnis and there is a world of difference between the texture of that and the worsteds that you have listed. If you are referring to some other suit then my mistake.

I'm having a DB made up in a flannel similar to Crown Classic 2317 from Fox. I've just always wanted a chalkstripe flannel suit, seems to be a very British thing to do.

I'm referring to his Dark Grey Chalkstripe flannel DB.

I'll be having a notch lapel 3pc made up in solid navy. The SB peak is something I've been doing for a while now from Tom Ford; mostly because I think it looks a little different if done properly...and I've seen a fair few 30s/50s Esquire sketches featuring them.
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post #4 of 6
12/10/11 at 3:38am
Choose your preferred weight but then only you can choose what YOU look like. Use a little imagination, when having a consultation at your cutter's premises ask him to break out some bolts of cloth in similar patterns and then drape those over your shoulder. Look at any similar finished garments that he has awaiting collection or final fitting. Look about you in the street and see what others are wearing and whether you like the look.

If you are trying to do this on the net then this is the downside of that approach and you will have =to use your imagination - something which is not good I suspect given that you have asked this here.
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post #5 of 6
12/10/11 at 4:07am
Thread Starter 
Unfortunately my cutter is in Singapore and I'm in Australia! In my city (Perth) I don't think the tailors would be too welcoming of people just wanting a consultation, they seem to be only catering to repeat customers or those who are willing to spend obscene amounts. I think I will stick with 11-12Oz and have a seperate 8-9Oz wardrobe for summer (I often travel overseas then anyway). I was hoping to get some photos of what the different sized stripes would look like; I've got a vision in mind but not entirely sure how to get there. If only I could look in the financial district and see people with suits I might like; it's pretty much all black Hugo Boss here. I think I saw a striped DB once. And I've lived here for 13 years.

But anyway; does anyone have any fit pictures of chalkstripe suits? I know there's a thread but nobody really followed up it seems. Please note the width of the stripes when posting if you can!
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post #6 of 6
12/10/11 at 7:59am
Thread Starter 
Nobody has a picture of a suit in a 3/4" stripe?
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