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How to clean antique brass hooks and eyelets that have turned black/
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Meermin Mallorca Shoes - Page 362
Styleforum Top Pickspost #5417 of 144725/3/13 at 11:22ampost #5418 of 144725/3/13 at 11:30ampost #5419 of 144725/3/13 at 11:53ampost #5420 of 144725/3/13 at 12:09pmpost #5421 of 144725/3/13 at 12:29pmpost #5422 of 144725/3/13 at 8:01pmpost #5423 of 144725/4/13 at 12:20ampost #5424 of 144725/4/13 at 12:59ampost #5425 of 144725/4/13 at 1:14ampost #5426 of 144725/4/13 at 1:45ampost #5427 of 144725/4/13 at 2:49amQuote:
AFAIK, Museum calf is glazed aniline leather that comes finished from the tannery (instead of dyed and finished at the shoemaking factory, i.e., EG, G&G, etc) so the top coating won't easily come off. This is not to say that it won't be finished again by Meermin but its finish will be sturdier.
Why not just neutral shoe wax the welt and stitching? The key is to make sure the threads stay well waxed and flexible, not making the leather soft and pliable. Water is better than Renovator if the latter is the goal.post #5428 of 144725/4/13 at 3:20ampost #5429 of 144725/4/13 at 3:28ampost #5430 of 144725/4/13 at 4:09amThanks. My goal is to condition the leather so that it would crease well over the years. I usually apply renovator (twice a year), shoe cream (twice a month), and occasionally wax the toe and heel.
For the museum calf, I plan to skip the shoe cream as it'll ruin the color texture.
Just unsure if I should apply the renovator or mink oil.
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