woah that gemming has come unglued from the insole. That shoe is fucked.
handwelting vs. gemming:
Originally Posted by hendrix
Traditionally, shoes were handwelted - a "feather" or "holdfast" was cut into the insole, then the welt and upper could be sewn onto this ridge This process can only be done by hand:
the welt is massive in this picture and would get trimmed down. The outsole would then be stitched to the welt. You can see by the black piece of leather that the welt stitching runs through the upper into the insole - i.e. it holds the shoe together.
Gemming is a factory technique for attaching the welt and upper to the insole using a glued on piece of canvas. It happens in goodyear welting, which is not actually the indicator of quality the internet would have you believe.
See the strip of canvas? that's glued to the insole, and is effectively what holds the shoe together, since the welt stitching goes through the upper.