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Bespoke or Off The Rack?

post #1 of 18
12/5/11 at 6:10am
Thread Starter 
So I'm getting to the point where I can get a bespoke suit. I may not be far enough in my career to justify one but I was thinking if the price of an off the rack suit is about as much as a off the rack suit then maybe I should consider it? There are some fine suit makers with some pretty decent fabrics. I was wondering your thoughts on bespoke or just go off the rack? Off the rack is nice I just find a hard time finding something that fits correctly.
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post #2 of 18
12/5/11 at 6:43am
What do you find thats hard to fit correctly? if its something major then yeah go for bespoke, if not maybe try MTM. You dont need to worry about being far enough in your career to justify a bespoke suit, edwin from steed made me one and to the untrained eye it just looks like a very well fitting suit
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post #3 of 18
12/5/11 at 6:47am
Thread Starter 
The length and build. I can never find one long enough that fits in the shoulders and also can never find one that fits in the shoulders that is long enough... It's like the higher up in suit size I go, the boxer the suit gets
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post #4 of 18
12/5/11 at 6:55am
well if you are not happy with OTR then go for bespoke i guess. But just be careful because sometimes bespoke can turn out really bad. I would always recommend OTR with alterations if the major parts like shoulders, jacket length etc fit well, but make sure you have a good cutter for bespoke like Mina or Edwin, which seem to be the forum favorites atm and i have personal experience with both and they both do a bang up job
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post #5 of 18
12/5/11 at 12:17pm

I'm a fairly regular size and most suits have always fit me 'well', but when I took the plunge and purchased a made to measure / bespoke suit, it completely changed my opinion on how a suit should fit. They're amazingly good. 

 

If you choose well it's the kind of thing you collect and pass down to your kids. I know I wish my old man had done this. 

 

And as Jeff says - You need to choose well. Shoulders are the thing you need to look for. They need to be masters at creating soft well structured shoulders. 

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post #6 of 18
12/5/11 at 1:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seros22 View Post

. 

If you choose well it's the kind of thing you collect and pass down to your kids. I know I wish my old man had done this. 

+1 can't wait for my old man to croak. He can still have his favorite one.
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post #7 of 18
12/5/11 at 3:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakeyt View Post

The length and build. I can never find one long enough that fits in the shoulders and also can never find one that fits in the shoulders that is long enough... It's like the higher up in suit size I go, the boxer the suit gets

Why? How tall are you and how much do you weigh?
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post #8 of 18
12/5/11 at 4:05pm
If you know the kind of suit you like, why don't you try MTM? That would be my first step before going full bespoke and you know what you are getting. Zegna has a great MTM program. If you want something slightly cheaper BB also does MTM.

Much less chance of it coming out looking like a botched abortion.
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post #9 of 18
12/5/11 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AWBenz View Post

Make sure to let him know your enthusiasm of his future death for ownership of his suits.
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Why would he want his suits, they are made to fit his father's body, not his. Seros22 meant passing on your own appreciate for fine clothes to your kids, not the actual clothes themselves.
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post #10 of 18
12/6/11 at 6:29am
Thread Starter 
6'3" 217lbs
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post #11 of 18
12/6/11 at 6:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iroh View Post

Why would he want his suits, they are made to fit his father's body, not his. Seros22 meant passing on your own appreciate for fine clothes to your kids, not the actual clothes themselves.

Seriously? You recycle dirty socks but won't consider altering and then wearing a father's suit?
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post #12 of 18
12/6/11 at 2:03pm
After starting to dip my toe into bespoke waters a couple of years ago, I'm now having all of my shirts, jackets and suits made. Once I saw the possibilities for accommodating my body's quirks, I just can't look at the way RTW fits me the same again. As everyone around here eventually figures out, it's possible to do it well without breaking the bank, whether by using Hong Kong tailors or by effective use of CMT. I'm buying a lot less clothing, and what I have bought has been much more thoughtful and specific, and therefore a better value than the higher volume, lower quality approach that I used to have. I did a lot of research here and elsewhere before diving in, and I've mostly avoided any major mistakes - other than a certain pair of shoes that I've worn less than I'd hoped to, but still enjoy.
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post #13 of 18
12/6/11 at 2:15pm
So why are you hard to fit? You sound like a 42-44L?
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post #14 of 18
12/6/11 at 2:23pm
Thread Starter 
I'm in the middle 43L which is impossible to find. Sometimes 42L is too small for me. 44L is more often than not too big for me and too long. The sweet spot is hard to find and usually sold a 42L which looks like a 42S.
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post #15 of 18
12/7/11 at 9:05am
You're only 6'3, how are most 42L too short? The last 42L I just sold had a 32 BOC...
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