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Thick as Thieves ONLINE - Page 7

post #91 of 4217
I tend to agree with Brian. Avoid the words premium, deluxe, etc. and simply have the fabric page sections with the price points at the title. E.g. "English Wool 120s - $450 USD" and "Dormeuil Worsted Wool 140s - $800 USD". Usually those who want really high end stuff will know what names/grades they're looking for. Playing devil's advocate though, "Premium" is less confusing than say... Blue, Black, Purple Label in that you know you're getting something higher grade from the name alone.
post #92 of 4217
Thread Starter 
Brian, right..I guess I wasnt clear. I'm not intending to have what's labeled a "premium" line as if it were something completely different, but just offer higher priced namebrand fabrics with an appropriate price increase. But yea, it's not like a different line altogether.

Fok, right now all the fabric I'm looking at is English, not that I have anything against Italian fabrics.

Historically, the really really original mods circa 58-61 got their fashion cues from American ivy style, and it wasn't until the mid-60s that the style evolved into the Italian/English hybrid that it's commonly associated with. But one of the things I want to do is to really go deep into the "mod" archives and see about making a sack/ivy suit that is fitted with a natural shoulder that has no pads to pay homage to that original style. It'd be a much softer jacket with far less structure to it. It could turn out that sack suits will always look crap no matter how fitted, but it's something I want to see for myself.
post #93 of 4217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Get Smart
Brian, right..I guess I wasnt clear. I'm not intending to have what's labeled a "premium" line as if it were something completely different, but just offer higher priced namebrand fabrics with an appropriate price increase. But yea, it's not like a different line altogether.

Fok, right now all the fabric I'm looking at is English, not that I have anything against Italian fabrics.

Historically, the really really original mods circa 58-61 got their fashion cues from American ivy style, and it wasn't until the mid-60s that the style evolved into the Italian/English hybrid that it's commonly associated with. But one of the things I want to do is to really go deep into the "mod" archives and see about making a sack/ivy suit that is fitted with a natural shoulder that has no pads to pay homage to that original style. It'd be a much softer jacket with far less structure to it. It could turn out that sack suits will always look crap no matter how fitted, but it's something I want to see for myself.

Margiela has conquered this feat, and IMO it looks fantastic. I would compulsively make a bookmark on my PayPal to the effect of "send $400 to Jason," and probably click it everyday if you were to make a super-slim JFK-style suit, in worsted wool or tweed herringbone or something.
post #94 of 4217
Oh god, herringbone would be excellent. I'd snatch up a coat right then.
post #95 of 4217
Thread Starter 
I may have found my grey tweed herringbone. Just need to work out price and details on availability, but it's the bees knees. Will keep you updated.

*but it looks like it would keep the final cost of suit to be the same, maybe $20-40 higher at most.
post #96 of 4217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian SD
Margiela has conquered this feat, and IMO it looks fantastic. I would compulsively make a bookmark on my PayPal to the effect of "send $400 to Jason," and probably click it everyday if you were to make a super-slim JFK-style suit, in worsted wool or tweed herringbone or something.

I'd really like to see an example of that Brian because every time I hear sack suit my stomach churns. No h@t3 for the sack suit lovers on the fora, just REALLY not my thing.
Now if Jason can get me to buy one... hell...





post #97 of 4217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Get Smart
But one of the things I want to do is to really go deep into the "mod" archives and see about making a sack/ivy suit that is fitted with a natural shoulder that has no pads to pay homage to that original style. It'd be a much softer jacket with far less structure to it. It could turn out that sack suits will always look crap no matter how fitted, but it's something I want to see for myself.

+1
Count me in! I have a vintage sack suit circa '63 that I really dig. I'd love a modernized version (shorter rise, slimmer waist), but with sixties details (short vent, thin lapels, two-button sleeves, etc.). Totally boss.
post #98 of 4217


I think the suits Dustin Hoffman wears in the Graduate would be a good example of 60s American suits done right.

Although these days, everything could stand to be slimmer. BTW Jason, I would be in support of a line called "Premium Engrish Wool." I would pay the extra $300 or whatever.
post #99 of 4217
Thread Starter 
that particular jacket Hoffman is wearing is darted and has shoulder pads, but I know you get where I'm coming from.

I think if the ivy sack suit does work out, it will only be available as a custom order since the shoulders need to correspond with its wearer, hence a RTW version would properly fit less people than a standard padded-shoulder suit...and I'm hoping to have my tweeds finalized in the next couple weeks, as this particular cut would look best on a heavier fabric like wool flannel and tweed.
post #100 of 4217
Another +1 on the concept and the execution - I really like your stuff. I've got to get my clothing budget in order for 2007, but hopefully I've got enough to place an order. Any idea when the special offer for forum members will run until?
post #101 of 4217
Oh my...tweed herringbone? You've got a guaranteed purchase from me if that happens.

*boner*
post #102 of 4217
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonC
Any idea when the special offer for forum members will run until?

Not forever, but definitely thru spring/summer....I know it's not like fellas just have $400 lying around to blow on a suit. But I'm an easy going dood, if someone PMs me next fall and wants the introductory price I'm prolly not gonna say no.
post #103 of 4217
You might have answered this earlier, but a few questions:
1) Will you have a guide or photos to show how the measurements were taken? Regarding things like sleeve length, I'm not sure if this is taken from the top of the shoulder down, or bisecting the entire length of the arm, or from the pit on down. Same goes with shoulder and total length.
2) I'm thinking I'd like mine with an extra inch and a half of length in the jacket. Will this result in the pockets shifting downwards a little, or in your opinion, will the pockets look fine where they are? Also, if an extra bit of length is added, could this make adding a second button possible?
3) As a 37" chest, I'd be more comfortable with the 38" model, or with the MTM option, can a 19.5" pit-to-pit be done?
4) Are the hem measurements taken from unfinished trouser length, or at a typical inseam, say 32"? Is the hem of 7.5" wide enough that it would look good with boots? Those photos of the Sartorialist in Europe with the gent in the boots convinced me that a grey suit + dark tan chukkas look
post #104 of 4217
Quote:
Originally Posted by prozach1576
Oh my...tweed herringbone? You've got a guaranteed purchase from me if that happens. *boner*
My thoughts exactly but... TMI.
post #105 of 4217
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandwagonesque
You might have answered this earlier, but a few questions:
1) Will you have a guide or photos to show how the measurements were taken? Regarding things like sleeve length, I'm not sure if this is taken from the top of the shoulder down, or bisecting the entire length of the arm, or from the pit on down. Same goes with shoulder and total length.
2) I'm thinking I'd like mine with an extra inch and a half of length in the jacket. Will this result in the pockets shifting downwards a little, or in your opinion, will the pockets look fine where they are? Also, if an extra bit of length is added, could this make adding a second button possible?
3) As a 37" chest, I'd be more comfortable with the 38" model, or with the MTM option, can a 19.5" pit-to-pit be done?
4) Are the hem measurements taken from unfinished trouser length, or at a typical inseam, say 32"? Is the hem of 7.5" wide enough that it would look good with boots? Those photos of the Sartorialist in Europe with the gent in the boots convinced me that a grey suit + dark tan chukkas look

1. yes I'll have a self measurement guide up soon enough (will work on this weekend matter of fact)

2. adding length is no problem, if you're only adding an inch or two, the pocket position I would leave as is. as for adding a second button, I'd have to take a closer look at the dimensions. If/when I make a 2 button model, I'd want it to have notch lapels rather than peak, and non-hacking pockets

3. a 19.5" pit to pit is no problem. These run on the smaller side of its tagsize so honestly a normal 38 would probably be a good fit in the chest area for a 37

4. the hem measurement is taken from a typical length position, but a 28" - 34" inseam would end up with roughly the same hem, +/- .25". Keep in mind that the trousers are meant to be worn 'no break' so, for example, my friend in the pics who's 6'3" has a 32.5" inseam. It'll end up being much shorter than, say, your jeans inseam. And *I* think a 7.5" hem looks good with boots (a nice slim one, not a bulky one), not a fan of bootcut suit trousers at all. The way trouser proportions work, a true straight leg from knee to hem results in the appearance of a kickout/flare. To 'look' straight leg you actually need a small taper, about 1" difference from knee to bottom.
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