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Thick as Thieves ONLINE - Page 266

post #3976 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman89 View Post

Fair enough, is your stitching showing up under your lapel? It's very evident the stitching is there when I look below my lapel, I own several suits and none of them have this issue.

Are your other suits fused? This is normal for a fully canvased suit to show behind the lapel light stitching.
post #3977 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by loreley View Post

In my opinion, you need shoulder pads.
Thanks for the quick response. You don't think it's a fit/width issue?
I'm a little concerned shoulder pads would make it look too bulky/square and wouldn't fit the look of the suit. I feel Jason doesn't make his suits with shoulder pads because that's how they should fit, no?
post #3978 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by loreley View Post

Are your other suits fused? This is normal for a fully canvased suit to show behind the lapel light stitching.

Some are half-canvassed but your probably right that the stitching behind the lapel has to do with the canvass. Like I said, overall I have been very pleased with this suit and the crookedness of the stitching is my only complaint. I am looking to purchase another TaT suit in the future but haven't found a fabric I like yet.
post #3979 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk317 View Post

Thanks for the quick response. You don't think it's a fit/width issue?
I'm a little concerned shoulder pads would make it look too bulky/square and wouldn't fit the look of the suit. I feel Jason doesn't make his suits with shoulder pads because that's how they should fit, no?

Jason used to include shoulder pads in all of his suits by default, until about a year ago.

I have a suit with and without the pads, and I can tell you that adding the pads won't make it more square, as long as you go for very light padding.

The padding adds structure not only to the tops of the shoulder, but around the top arc of the arm hole, essentially smoothing out the lines without adding bulk.

The key is to use light padding, and communication with your tailor the desired end effect.

In my opinion, you could benefit from them. I feel that "soft tailoring" works better with heavier and more robust fabrics. The lighter worsted stuff just doesn't drape well without a little structure.
post #3980 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk317 View Post

Thanks for the quick response. You don't think it's a fit/width issue?
I'm a little concerned shoulder pads would make it look too bulky/square and wouldn't fit the look of the suit. I feel Jason doesn't make his suits with shoulder pads because that's how they should fit, no?

The fit looks ok to me, but its difficult to tell without pressing first. You really must press it because it will look completely diffirerent on your body once you do.
post #3981 of 4207
Thanks a lot loreley. I emailed Jason about this and he suggested similarly about the padding. He offered to have them added/remade if I send the jacket back to him. I think I'll trust his eye on how to add the shoulder pads over a local tailor haha...
post #3982 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by sk317 View Post

Hey I just got this Navy Mohair from TaT. The pants are fine, but can someone help me with the shoulders? They seem like more than just a pressing issue.
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This is the same issue I had with my TaT suit that I received this summer--the up-and-down wrinkle that kind of runs along the lapel. I have the same kind of broad shoulders that you have.

 

When I took it to the tailor, the gal knew instantly what the problem was--she put a very light, thin, circular-shaped pad right over my collar bone on each side of my neck and that filled in that spot where the jacket is wrinkling.

 

This cost about $50 total.  She did NOT put padding in that covered the whole shoulder all the way out to the shoulder seams.  I didn't want this, as I feel that my shoulders are broad enough without extra padding.  

 

I'm still getting used to the "soft shoulder" look with no padding in it.  That was a bit of an adjustment because all of the other jackets I own have at least some shoulder padding in them.  Most have way more than I would like, which is one of the reasons why I pursued a TaT suit.

 

You can kind of see the result after that alteration in these pictures, but they're not as close up as yours.........

 

IMG_0904.jpg

 

 

IMG_0907.jpg

 

 

post #3983 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trumpet72 View Post


This is the same issue I had with my TaT suit that I received this summer--the up-and-down wrinkle that kind of runs along the lapel. I have the same kind of broad shoulders that you have.

 

When I took it to the tailor, the gal knew instantly what the problem was--she put a very light, thin, circular-shaped pad right over my collar bone on each side of my neck and that filled in that spot where the jacket is wrinkling.

 

This cost about $50 total.  She did NOT put padding in that covered the whole shoulder all the way out to the shoulder seams.  I didn't want this, as I feel that my shoulders are broad enough without extra padding.  

 

I'm still getting used to the "soft shoulder" look with no padding in it.  That was a bit of an adjustment because all of the other jackets I own have at least some shoulder padding in them.  Most have way more than I would like, which is one of the reasons why I pursued a TaT suit.

 

You can kind of see the result after that alteration in these pictures, but they're not as close up as yours.........

 

 

 


My tailor added the same type of padding and it's made a big improvement on the look and fit. I went in for a fitting today (I was making quite a few adjustments to the jacket) and will pick up the jacket tomorrow. I'll try to post a few before and after photos by this weekend.

 

post #3984 of 4207
I'd argue that most people having some structure should be the default. The only product I don't have any padding on is my tweed jacket, and that is due to the weight, style and casualness of the material compared to worsted. It's just that too many people want the Mad Men look without considering whether or not they would actually like the results.
post #3985 of 4207
For what it's worth I asked Jason about potentially getting pads added to my next order to change up the aesthetic. He said that adding shoulder pads would make no difference, only people with uneven shoulders should opt for them.
post #3986 of 4207
467

Can't really make out the details, but here's a tuxedo I got recently.
post #3987 of 4207
peak lapel? Is there a tuxedo stripe on the pants?
post #3988 of 4207
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip View Post

peak lapel? Is there a tuxedo stripe on the pants?

Double yes. I might be able to get some better pictures.
post #3989 of 4207
mucho appreciated!
post #3990 of 4207
Ok this is all I've got:

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