Epaulet x Carmina MTO

Austerity Brogue Update

So the strong consensus on the austerity brogues seems to be for snuff suede with antique edgetrim. The only outstanding decision to be made is regarding the last -- either Simpson or Rain in a medium fitting. If you are seriously interested in these shoes, please vote in the following form, indicating your styleforum id and preference as to last, we can get this squared away and ordered when Mike is at Pitti. Voting deadline is Friday, Jan. 6th at noon.

Austerity Brogue Last Voting Form

Let me know if you have any questions. Awesome job to all for pulling this together. Thanks to Mike for being generally badass.



CHRK33 said:

Austerity Brogue Update
So the strong consensus on the austerity brogues seems to be for snuff suede with antique edgetrim. The only outstanding decision to be made is regarding the last -- either Simpson or Rain in a medium fitting. If you are seriously interested in these shoes, please vote in the following form, indicating your styleforum id and preference as to last, we can get this squared away and ordered when Mike is at Pitti. Voting deadline is Friday, Jan. 6th at noon.
Austerity Brogue Last Voting Form
Let me know if you have any questions. Awesome job to all for pulling this together. Thanks to Mike for being generally badass.

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I wanted to include a picture of the Carmina lasts so that everyone is clear on the shape of the shoe last.



(L-R) Alcudia, Robert, Simpson, Inca.

^ do you have a rain/simpson side by side like that.

i'm still leaning towards Rain.



bdeuce22 said:

^ do you have a rain/simpson side by side like that.
i'm still leaning towards Rain.

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The Rain last is a between the Inca and Simspon last.

Just want to make sure everyone is on the same page, the shoes below are the ones we are going to order but with a Rain or Simpson last depending on the outcome of the votes?

These are snuff suede correct?

Are there any updates on what lasts can be ordered in narrower widths? I see Rain and Simpson won't be available but I'm hoping one of the other lasts will be.



SeventyFive said:

Are there any updates on what lasts can be ordered in narrower widths? I see Rain and Simpson won't be available but I'm hoping one of the other lasts will be.

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Simpson & Rain are the last options - Check post 316 above for last voting form.

Update - So the strong consensus on the austerity brogues seems to be for snuff suede with antique edgetrim. The only outstanding decision to be made is regarding the last -- either Simpson or Rain in a medium fitting. If you are seriously interested in these shoes, please vote in the following form, indicating your styleforum id and preference as to last, we can get this squared away and ordered when Mike is at Pitti. Voting deadline is Friday, Jan. 6th at noon.



Cuttingboard said:

Many thanks...I'm very excited!!

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My pleasure, thanks for picking them up!

bdeuce22 said:

^ do you have a rain/simpson side by side like that.
i'm still leaning towards Rain.

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We don't have any Simpson shoes in store, but here's the Rain last on our Chelsea boot:



And yes, this is the Snuff suede and antique edge trim that we're talking about. The makeup's going to pretty much look like this - which is pretty awesome!

^ Gorgeous.

I have not followed this thread until now, but I'm pretty interested in the austerity brogues and have voted. One thing I'd like to find out is if both Rain and Simpson lasts would fit my seemingly average foot shape. The Alden Barrie and Plaza lasts both fit me pretty well, being more or less perfect width-wise in D width. Does anyone know if the Simpson last would be too narrow for me?



applky said:

^ Gorgeous.

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You said it! I could look at these photos all day.

We're going to have some gorgeous red Italian linen trousers in the Spring. These shoes are going to look impossibly ace with those!

Cuttingboard said:

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Ah yeah!

And for logistics, we'll ask for a 50% non-refundable deposit before putting the shoes into work. I'll get a confirmed delivery date from Carmina, which should be about 10-12 weeks from the submission date. The suede is European and in-stock, so we'll get a quick and reliable turnaround on this. The shoes are going to cost about $540, and you can opt for lasted shoe trees for an additional $25. If you don't want the lasted shoe trees, we can include Epaulet cedar shoe trees (made by Woodlore, just like the Alden trees) at no charge.



Epaulet said:

And for logistics, we'll ask for a 50% non-refundable deposit before putting the shoes into work. I'll get a confirmed delivery date from Carmina, which should be about 10-12 weeks from the submission date. The suede is European and in-stock, so we'll get a quick and reliable turnaround on this. The shoes are going to cost about $540, and you can opt for lasted shoe trees for an additional $25. If you don't want the lasted shoe trees, we can include Epaulet cedar shoe trees (made by Woodlore, just like the Alden trees) at no charge.

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Mike,

how accurate is this chart from The Armoury thread?

Simpson - a narrow last with a chisel toe. Reasonably extended in the toe box, and a reasonably narrow waist. E width.
Alcudia - much like the Simpson, but with more of an Almond Toe. E width.
Robert - A rounded Almond toe, E width. Officially it is the same width as the Simspon, but the extra room at the toe tends to make it more comfortable for wider feet.
Inca - a pointed toe, on our widest last, with a fairly wide waist. The most comfortable last we have for wide and flat feet. EE width.
Rain - Much like the Inca, but with a chisel toe. EE width.
Forest - a popular last in Europe, it is a standard width with a soft round toe, quite low in the instep, so high insteps can feel a little pinched in this last. E width.
Uetam - a new last for us in a loafer, it feels very similar to the Forest, if a shade narrower. E width.

If the austerity brogue makes it on the rain last will it actually be a EE width or a medium?



Renton said:

Mike,
how accurate is this chart from The Armoury thread?
Simpson - a narrow last with a chisel toe. Reasonably extended in the toe box, and a reasonably narrow waist. E width.
Alcudia - much like the Simpson, but with more of an Almond Toe. E width.
Robert - A rounded Almond toe, E width. Officially it is the same width as the Simspon, but the extra room at the toe tends to make it more comfortable for wider feet.
Inca - a pointed toe, on our widest last, with a fairly wide waist. The most comfortable last we have for wide and flat feet. EE width.
Rain - Much like the Inca, but with a chisel toe. EE width.
Forest - a popular last in Europe, it is a standard width with a soft round toe, quite low in the instep, so high insteps can feel a little pinched in this last. E width.
Uetam - a new last for us in a loafer, it feels very similar to the Forest, if a shade narrower. E width.
If the austerity brogue makes it on the rain last will it actually be a EE width or a medium?

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The Armoury is definitely more familiar than I am with Carmina, but I'd take the width distinctions with a grain of salt. From what I've seen, their standard fits are all a variation of what we know as medium fitting.

For our first round of makeups, we used the Inca, Rain, and Forest last. I wouldn't say that the Inca is like an "wide" fit to the Forest's "medium" fit. And all of them are slimmer than either the Alden Barrie or Tru-Balance last in their normal "D" medium sizing. They're slimmer than the Wolverine 1000 Mile last too - which is an excellent fitting boot and worked for most of our customers.

We've sold quite a few Rain-lasted Chelsea boots, and I haven't had anyone comment that the boot felt roomy or wide. Quite the opposite - it's a very elegant and slim, but not tight or narrow, last. It's a great fit on me, and I end up sliding around a bit in the Barrie, even with sizing down a half.

I believe that using either the Rain or the Simpson will result in a fit with a shade or two of difference. Kind of like the Alden Aberdeen vs. the Alden Leydon last. I'd be inclined to look at their "E" vs "EE" comparisons as more of a relation on which lasts are slimmer, rather than a direct correspondence to a traditional medium or wide fit.

But to date I've only corresponded with Carmina via emails and phone calls. I'll meet with them in person next Wednesday, and I plan on really hashing out the sizing then.



Epaulet said:

You said it! I could look at these photos all day.
We're going to have some gorgeous red Italian linen trousers in the Spring. These shoes are going to look impossibly ace with those!
Ah yeah!
And for logistics, we'll ask for a 50% non-refundable deposit before putting the shoes into work. I'll get a confirmed delivery date from Carmina, which should be about 10-12 weeks from the submission date. The suede is European and in-stock, so we'll get a quick and reliable turnaround on this. The shoes are going to cost about $540, and you can opt for lasted shoe trees for an additional $25. If you don't want the lasted shoe trees, we can include Epaulet cedar shoe trees (made by Woodlore, just like the Alden trees) at no charge.

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lasted shoe trees for $25? wow



NAMOR said:

lasted shoe trees for $25? wow

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Haha, they cost me way more than that.

But I'll eat most of the price, as you guys deserve it for coming up with the shoe concept! And we can definitely include them at no charge with the pricer shell boots.