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O’Mast Screening - Page 7

post #91 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by toscano_adottato View Post

Signor Migliarotti è meglio che lei non legga questo thread. Ci sarà sempre chi critica solo per il piacere di fare il bischero o il sapientone. Pero, alla fine, questo tipo non ha fatto un film perchè non sa niente nè del cinema nè della sartoria Napolitana. Magari ha qualce vestito, ma probabilmente è consapevole del soggetto soltanto perche legge qui. Esperienze vicarie...è questo che lei troverà qui.
Lei il film l'ha fatto invece e del risultato godono tante persone. I critici qui non le possono suggerire niente. Se qualcuno qui volesse discutere i dettagli del film, potrebbe contattarla via messaggio privato. Altrimenti, la consiglio di evitare il thread, che con il passar del tempo si riempirà con post pieni di stupidaggini and tentative di farle incazzare.
Solo un suggerimento da parte di uno a cui è piaciuto molto il brano del trailer. Aspetto ancora che arrivi il DVD.



So you've only seen the trailer, but still find it fit to criticize my review of the movie? In case you didn't realize, this is a forum which (as the term implies) encourages open discussion and expression.

 

Oh, and next time, grow a pair and post in English rather than hoping to hide your insults in Italian.

 

post #92 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by toscano_adottato View Post

Signor Migliarotti è meglio che lei non legga questo thread. Ci sarà sempre chi critica solo per il piacere di fare il bischero o il sapientone. Pero, alla fine, questo tipo non ha fatto un film perchè non sa niente nè del cinema nè della sartoria Napolitana. Magari ha qualce vestito, ma probabilmente è consapevole del soggetto soltanto perche legge qui. Esperienze vicarie...è questo che lei troverà qui.
Lei il film l'ha fatto invece e del risultato godono tante persone. I critici qui non le possono suggerire niente. Se qualcuno qui volesse discutere i dettagli del film, potrebbe contattarla via messaggio privato. Altrimenti, la consiglio di evitare il thread, che con il passar del tempo si riempirà con post pieni di stupidaggini and tentative di farle incazzare.
Solo un suggerimento da parte di uno a cui è piaciuto molto il brano del trailer. Aspetto ancora che arrivi il DVD.

Enter Google Translate:

Mr. Migliarotti is better that you do not read this thread. There will always be those who criticize just for the pleasure of the peg or pundit. But in the end, this did not make a movie because he knows nothing of either the film or tailoring Napolitana. Maybe he has some clothing, but probably only because the subject is aware of the law here. Vicarious experiences ... that's what you'll find here.
She did the film instead of the result and many people enjoy. Critics can not suggest anything here. If anyone here wanted to discuss the details of the film, may contact you via private message. Otherwise, the advice to avoid the thread, which with the passing of time will be filled with posts full of nonsense and attempt to make them angry.
Just a suggestion by one who loved the song in the trailer. I am still waiting for the arrival of DVD.
post #93 of 109
Such a passionate response based on the fact that he loved the song in the trailer?? I musy know, what is this enchanting melody? Is it as good as "Can't Fight The Moonlight" from the epic movie Coyote Ugly?

FWIW, I liked O'Mast.
post #94 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post



Thanks for the reply.

First, on the matter of calling you 'inexperienced', after viewing the Q+A session (post the NY screening), I was under the impression you were simply a bespoke enthusiast who had chosen to make this documentary based on his love / interest in the subject matter. Obviously I was wrong, and for that I apologize.

My critique, nonetheless, stands. As I said, it was an enjoyable hour but one that left me largely unfulfilled. I'm evidently in the minority on SF as others have raved about your movie.

 

BTW have you seen Put This On's interview with Gianluca Migliarotti? He addresses some of your questions.

http://putthison.com/post/7344403601/interview-with-gianluca-migliarotti-director-of
post #95 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II View Post

Such a passionate response based on the fact that he loved the song in the trailer?? I musy know, what is this enchanting melody? Is it as good as "Can't Fight The Moonlight" from the epic movie Coyote Ugly?
FWIW, I liked O'Mast.

I don't think song is the right translation of "brano"...it's more like "bit" or "piece" I think...
post #96 of 109
Dear Mr Migliarotti,

Regarding passion -- yes, it is good to have it. And yes, after listening Italian artisans for an hour, one can't stand this word anymore.

You decided to give the tailors a full go -- almost all of your film consists of direct speech from them, with interviewer's voice not even present. Yes, this approach produces a truly "inside story". But, in my opinion, the story can benefit from more structure and involvement of the film's director -- here I agree with ET. You certainly able to do it -- as I said, the interludes (produced by you, not tailors) are superb.

Thus, I believe that your love (and passion smile.gif) for the subject matter and appreciation of artisans resulted in too little editing for their ramblings. Tailors' philosophy is just that -- tailors' philosophy... It is interesting -- but only to an extent.

Said this, I enjoyed the film. I believe this is the best (the only?) documentary on Neapolitan tailoring in existence -- and you produced an excellent work.

But as Neapolitan tailors say, there are no perfect suits... and there are no perfect documentaries. smile.gif

Andrey
post #97 of 109


I'm glad you didn't make it like the Savile Row documentary, which clearly lacks passion and in all honesty most of the tailors there seems not nearly as genuine as those pictured in O'mast. O'mast is a much better movie in all aspects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kid dandy View Post

Mr. "Eustace",
I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy my film O'mast and I'm sorry it didn't fulfilled your expectations of something more similar to the BBC series on Savile row. It was my directorial choice not to make it any similar in structure and contents. Those are two different realities, different styles, lifestyles and so on. One of the biggest difference is the reason why I made it compared to the BBC reasons and it's out of passion, a word that Mr. Andrey seems not to stand anymore. I'm myself a bespoke enthusiast, customer since when I was 18 and Neapolitan born and what I wanted to do was an homage to a Neapolitan excellence .
Being a professional filmmaker I decided to produce and direct a film that was telling a story from an inside point of view. I don't pretend it to be appreciated by anyone , it would be too much, but I will never understand why someone that doesn't like a film has to judge in a such arrogant way, defining "unexperienced" the director. I have to assume your film background must be very consistent to make you judging in such a secure way.

Thank you for having had the patience to watch it.


Gianluca Migliarotti


 

 

post #98 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by toscano_adottato View Post

Signor Migliarotti è meglio che lei non legga questo thread. Ci sarà sempre chi critica solo per il piacere di fare il bischero o il sapientone. Pero, alla fine, questo tipo non ha fatto un film perchè non sa niente nè del cinema nè della sartoria Napolitana. Magari ha qualce vestito, ma probabilmente è consapevole del soggetto soltanto perche legge qui. Esperienze vicarie...è questo che lei troverà qui.

Lei il film l'ha fatto invece e del risultato godono tante persone. I critici qui non le possono suggerire niente. Se qualcuno qui volesse discutere i dettagli del film, potrebbe contattarla via messaggio privato. Altrimenti, la consiglio di evitare il thread, che con il passar del tempo si riempirà con post pieni di stupidaggini and tentative di farle incazzare.

Solo un suggerimento da parte di uno a cui è piaciuto molto il brano del trailer. Aspetto ancora che arrivi il DVD.



So you've only seen the trailer, but still find it fit to criticize my review of the movie? In case you didn't realize, this is a forum which (as the term implies) encourages open discussion and expression.

Oh, and next time, grow a pair and post in English rather than hoping to hide your insults in Italian.

I think you misunderstood on several levels. My response to Mr Migliarotti has nothing to do with you and everything to do with a filmmaker interacting in a thread about his film on a message board. Perhaps I should have included a caveat that it had nothing to do with your post, it was just a general thought. I can see how coming so close to the exchange it would appear as though I was talking about you, so I apologize. It truly wasn't my intent. And the Italian part was because Mr Migliarotti is Italian and I speak it also. But, I'm not so presumptuous to think that other couldn't understand, or couldn't run it through Google translate. I wrote it in Italian because I like writing in Italian.

As a long time denizen of the Internet, I've never seen one occasion in which an artist tries to defend his/her work on a message board thread end well. There are too many trolls and too many armchair experts and the stark nature of text doesn't lend itself to a reasoned discussion. That's all I was really trying to communicate and, again, I apologize for coming across as though I was referring specifically to you.
post #99 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Here are the points I took from the video.
1) Ciardi : "The famous "mappina" sleeve was slowly, in Naples, like with so many things it became overdone, exaggerated, extreme, and it became a ruffled sleeve, out of place, but once it was tidy, a little abundant, light and that's all."
2) Regarding the jacket and the long front dart. Sabino: "This is the Neapolitan jacket, a shirt sleeve, very soft and light, which is weightless when worn. . . Another characteristic is this tuck, which is very long in the front, and makes the jacket veer."
Also from Leonelli: "It was Vincenzo Attolini who modified it. Until he came along, jackets were like bricks, but he created many things. For example the tuck used to go to the pocket, but he lengthened it all the way. Then he made jackets soft, he eliminated the haircloth that went in front. "
This I find interesting because Sator has argued that the long front dart is an unnecessary relic of the past - the dart going to the pocket is sufficient to create shape. But from the interview it sounds like the long front dart is necessary also to create the longer front and slight veering appearance of the coat.
3) The best part of the movie is being able to see the different jacket styles during movement and sitting. IMO there is only so much you can get out of the "robo-pose" pics.
4) Of all the coats, I liked Panico's the most. He trained with Blasi and was head cutter for Rubinacci, but yet his shoulder style is different from both.
5) I also love this quote from Panico, "The Neapolitan customer loves tailoring, he's enthusiastic about tailoring and you can tell by the way he gives suggestions to the tailor. So, he can say: "I told the tailor what to do!" This is the maximum excitement for the a Neapolitan customer. It is a kind of illness." laugh.gif
I have no idea where these customers could possibly lurk. peepwall[1].gif

I wouldn't jump to this conclusion. The long front dart has nothing to do with making the fronts longer. That is balance. It is just a style of cutting. For what it is worth, my tailor has he only uses a long front dart when clients have a really big belly. It helps to pull the quarters toward the thighs more rather than tenting out.
post #100 of 109
While watching the film I noticed the ebb and flow of each scene, the expressions of the tailors, which were
not contrived but natural as the Neapolitan garment. If the film was a structured production it would not have captured
the genuine characteristics of the Neapolitan, both the tailor and his garment. Great film!
post #101 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I wouldn't jump to this conclusion. The long front dart has nothing to do with making the fronts longer. That is balance. It is just a style of cutting. For what it is worth, my tailor has he only uses a long front dart when clients have a really big belly. It helps to pull the quarters toward the thighs more rather than tenting out.

I was referring to this post by Sator. Have you seen it? I find it compelling and I find it hard to argue against geometry.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2581

At first I thought the extended front dart was part of tradition, but hearing the interviews, it seems it may be related to something else. You use Ercole right? I'll ask Frank the next time I see him. BTW he had a length of grey herringbone Lesser about 13oz, is that what you are making up next?
post #102 of 109
I like the film but see it for what it is which is a documentary made by an enthusiast for fellow enthusiasts. The dialogue was predictable but entertaining. If he ever made part II I think it would be interesting to get these tailors to give the audience their unfiltered views about wardrobe staples, favorite fabrics or fabric makers, favorite articles of clothing, etc...but maybe this is more of a series of shorts.

I really need to learn Italian...
post #103 of 109
BTW whnay, does Mariano speak English in that rapid fire breathing-is-unnecessary manner too? His story about finding out about hopsack from a customer is hilarious. I wonder if it is one of the iGentry.
post #104 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I was referring to this post by Sator. Have you seen it? I find it compelling and I find it hard to argue against geometry.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2581
At first I thought the extended front dart was part of tradition, but hearing the interviews, it seems it may be related to something else. You use Ercole right? I'll ask Frank the next time I see him. BTW he had a length of grey herringbone Lesser about 13oz, is that what you are making up next?

Yep, Frank said he does it for fat guys. smile.gif The Lesser I am doing next is a lighter-than-navy Carlo Barbera for Lesser about 11oz. Now that I know he has a grey one as well, I maybe have to cop... Hmmm...
post #105 of 109
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

BTW whnay, does Mariano speak English in that rapid fire breathing-is-unnecessary manner too? His story about finding out about hopsack from a customer is hilarious. I wonder if it is one of the iGentry.

No
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