O’Mast Screening - Page 6

Also probably a better question for The Armoury thread.

Contact info@thearmoury.com with your order details and we can try and figure out rough delivery time.

The DVD is getting shipped out of the UK via Royal Mail Airmail, we typically ship same day or day after we receive the order and delivery time ranges from 2 working days for most European countries to up to a week for other countries but there will be delays because of the holiday season.

Airmail gets the DVD out in a quick but still economical way, allowing us to build the cost of shipping into the price of the DVD. Unfortunately we could not economically include tracking into the cost of shipping but if anyone wants it in a big hurry with full tracking, contact us and we can arrange expedited shipping at extra cost.

Nevermind just got my copy today! Thank you for the information though.

Good I'm glad you got it. I'm sorry the shipping for this is a bit murky, it's frustrating for us as well. Because a lot of people just want to buy the DVD from us, we had to find a way of shipping it that didn't cost as much as the DVD itself and so this was the best solution to get it to customers quickly but unfortunately not trackable.

Still waiting for mine.

Yeah, Royal Air Mail has always taken forever in my experience. I have never had anything lost, but it does take some time.

Finally had a chance to watch O'Mast this weekend. Its an enjoyable hour on a subject many / most of us find fascinating. That being said, its not much of a documentary and the director's inexperience is evident. Unlike the Savile Row mini-series developed by the BBC (admitted longer in length and developed by 'professionals') there was no real coherent theme, story or takeaway from O'Mast. The end result sadly feels a bit discombobulated.

 

O'Mast is essentially just a series of standalone interviews with the major tailors in the city on a few pet topics (how they got into tailoring, the Neapolitan style, what is style etc.) - this leads to a repetitive work that is nonetheless interesting but sadly unfulfilling. I can't help but think of lost opportunities here. Imagine if the director had chosen to adopt the BBC template - what is Neapolitan tailoring style? how do they deal with customers? how do they make money in a fast-paced world? international clients? what is the future of the trade?

 

Anyhoo, despite the babbling its worth the $25 but not much more. I may resell mine on B&S - unlike the BBC SR documentary, this isn't one I expect to watch again.

I mostly agree with what ET said.

There are loads of loosely structured philosophy in O'Mast. Granted, one has to have passion to be a great tailor, but it is simply too boring to hear this again and again. There are some interesting moments (for example, their view on English colleagues is amusing), but mostly vague reflections on vague matters.

On the other hand, when compared with BBC's series, love and passion (again this word! ) for the subject matter is evident. "Jazzed" interludes are superb. Alas, there is simply too little of them.

Andrey

Here are the points I took from the video.

1) Ciardi : "The famous "mappina" sleeve was slowly, in Naples, like with so many things it became overdone, exaggerated, extreme, and it became a ruffled sleeve, out of place, but once it was tidy, a little abundant, light and that's all."

2) Regarding the jacket and the long front dart. Sabino: "This is the Neapolitan jacket, a shirt sleeve, very soft and light, which is weightless when worn. . . Another characteristic is this tuck, which is very long in the front, and makes the jacket veer."

Also from Leonelli: "It was Vincenzo Attolini who modified it. Until he came along, jackets were like bricks, but he created many things. For example the tuck used to go to the pocket, but he lengthened it all the way. Then he made jackets soft, he eliminated the haircloth that went in front. "

This I find interesting because Sator has argued that the long front dart is an unnecessary relic of the past - the dart going to the pocket is sufficient to create shape. But from the interview it sounds like the long front dart is necessary also to create the longer front and slight veering appearance of the coat.

3) The best part of the movie is being able to see the different jacket styles during movement and sitting. IMO there is only so much you can get out of the "robo-pose" pics.

4) Of all the coats, I liked Panico's the most. He trained with Blasi and was head cutter for Rubinacci, but yet his shoulder style is different from both.

5) I also love this quote from Panico, "The Neapolitan customer loves tailoring, he's enthusiastic about tailoring and you can tell by the way he gives suggestions to the tailor. So, he can say: "I told the tailor what to do!" This is the maximum excitement for the a Neapolitan customer. It is a kind of illness."

I have no idea where these customers could possibly lurk.

 

I must say I loved the film, and I have already watched it several times (and I've had it for less than a week). You really get a feel of how the tailors work and neapolitan tailoring in my opinion. However I would have liked it there to be at least some extra material on the DVD, for example they could have a feature similar to a how stuffs made, where they follow a suit from the customer orders it. Also the extra material could have dealt with the more practical things like international clients. I do believe you got a feeling of how the relationship between customer and tailor worked. The music and scenes from Napoli are stunning.

 

I would highly recommend it. 

 

Only downside is I can't stop thinking how much I want a tailored suit from one of those tailors :)

 

Panico was my favorite. The man has real swagger.

Mr. "Eustace",
I'm sorry you couldn't enjoy my film O'mast and I'm sorry it didn't fulfilled your expectations of something more similar to the BBC series on Savile row. It was my directorial choice not to make it any similar in structure and contents. Those are two different realities, different styles, lifestyles and so on. One of the biggest difference is the reason why I made it compared to the BBC reasons and it's out of passion, a word that Mr. Andrey seems not to stand anymore. I'm myself a bespoke enthusiast, customer since when I was 18 and Neapolitan born and what I wanted to do was an homage to a Neapolitan excellence .
Being a professional filmmaker I decided to produce and direct a film that was telling a story from an inside point of view. I don't pretend it to be appreciated by anyone , it would be too much, but I will never understand why someone that doesn't like a film has to judge in a such arrogant way, defining "unexperienced" the director. I have to assume your film background must be very consistent to make you judging in such a secure way.

Thank you for having had the patience to watch it.


Gianluca Migliarotti

Signor Migliarotti è meglio che lei non legga questo thread. Ci sarà sempre chi critica solo per il piacere di fare il bischero o il sapientone. Pero, alla fine, questo tipo non ha fatto un film perchè non sa niente nè del cinema nè della sartoria Napolitana. Magari ha qualce vestito, ma probabilmente è consapevole del soggetto soltanto perche legge qui. Esperienze vicarie...è questo che lei troverà qui.

Lei il film l'ha fatto invece e del risultato godono tante persone. I critici qui non le possono suggerire niente. Se qualcuno qui volesse discutere i dettagli del film, potrebbe contattarla via messaggio privato. Altrimenti, la consiglio di evitare il thread, che con il passar del tempo si riempirà con post pieni di stupidaggini and tentative di farle incazzare.

Solo un suggerimento da parte di uno a cui è piaciuto molto il brano del trailer. Aspetto ancora che arrivi il DVD.

Thanks for the reply.

 

First, on the matter of calling you 'inexperienced', after viewing the Q+A session (post the NY screening), I was under the impression you were simply a bespoke enthusiast who had chosen to make this documentary based on his love / interest in the subject matter. Obviously I was wrong, and for that I apologize.

 

My critique, nonetheless, stands. As I said, it was an enjoyable hour but one that left me largely unfulfilled. I'm evidently in the minority on SF as others have raved about your movie.