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Winter Coat Basics

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

Hey guys,

 

I moved to London recently having never lived in a cold climate. So now I need to buy a winter coat. I've got a few basic questions:

 

I wear a suit to work everyday, and would wear the winter coat over my suit. I currently have a dark blue suit and a light grey suit. What color coat should I buy? How important is matching the coat to the suit. i.e. If I bought a black winter coat and wore it with a brown suit, would I look like shit? or am I overthinking.

 

How should the coat be tailored to fit? Basically, I want to make sure and maintain the v taper from my shoulders to my waist. I think that when you wear a bunch of layers, it's easy to start looking like a tube.

 

How long should the sleeves be? I get my suit sleeves tailored to show some shirt cuff. Shoud I do the same for the coat?

 

Pros and cons of waist length vs. knee length or full length coats?

 

Thanks.

post #2 of 16
Get a navy overcoat, that would be the most versatile color. A double-breasted will keep you warmer. Google polo coat.

Sleeves should go to your wrists, covering suit and shirt.

Length is personal preference, current fashion is shorter, some like over the knee (I among them).
post #3 of 16
Navy blue is the most versatile color. You can get away with Navy at night and this is important as this is your only overcoat.

The sleeves should just reach your wrist or a smidge more and should completely cover your suit and shirt sleeves.

Length will be a bit controversial but I say a young man looks best with a coat that is just above the knee. Do not go really short. As it's not formal enough and you'll want the protection from the damp wind once winter really sets in. The most proper length is mid calf - and if you are very tall this is good.

As to fit - wear a suit while shopping to make sure that what you purchase fits well over it. You may not get as much of a V shape as you will in a suit jacket - but you should be able to have some shaping.

Look for a scarf and gloves while you are at it. Even though it doesn't get sub zero in London very often the dampness will make you swear it's a lot colder than it actually is.
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 

I'm thinking about buying this one off ebay, but I'm not sure if the big lapels are a bit dated. It's vintage from the 70's.

 

http://img.iwascoding.com/1/2011/09/08/81/9F0BF4836F6D4A5EA700D20D07B5FCA3.jpg

post #5 of 16

a navy knee-length coat would look great.

post #6 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laser View Post

I'm thinking about buying this one off ebay, but I'm not sure if the big lapels are a bit dated. It's vintage from the 70's.
The big lapels ARE dated, and the coat is much too short.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post

Length is personal preference, current fashion is shorter, some like over the knee (I among them).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Length will be a bit controversial but I say a young man looks best with a coat that is just above the knee. Do not go really short..you'll want the protection from the damp wind once winter really sets in. The most proper length is mid calf - and if you are very tall this is good....Look for a scarf and gloves while you are at it. Even though it doesn't get sub zero in London very often the dampness will make you swear it's a lot colder than it actually is.
I agree with Sander. A little below the knee is my preferred length; in cold weather you'll want your knees to be covered by the overcoat. Looking for scarf and gloves is excellent advice. And, if you ever think of starting to wear a hat, it's much easier to do this (because of its practical value) with an overcoat or raincoat, as hat and outer coat "go together".
post #7 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by sborg View Post

a navy knee-length coat would look great.

This.
post #8 of 16
A topcoat in Grey Herringbone makes an excellent second choice (after you have one in Navy). Grey Herringbone hides a multitude of sin, for example, dust, lint, slush, dirt, etc.

As for the coat you linked to...

467

I rather like this coat. Who cares if it is vintage or not. This is a coat to have fun in.
Details please and price asked?
post #9 of 16
Something like this perhaps?
467
...the British wam coat, a classic.
http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/british-warm/
post #10 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDT 
...the British warm coat, a classic.
Yes, indeed, this coat has everything - practicality and style. The problem is finding one, as the linked article points out.
post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamson View Post

Yes, indeed, this coat has everything - practicality and style. The problem is finding one, as the linked article points out.

I have a really nice Navy Polo RL British Warmer, new with tags in size 40R. It's too large for me and I could be enticed to sell for the right offer.
post #12 of 16

I to am just starting to get into overcoats, although I already have a custom made brown cashmere coat that comes down to my knees.  From my understanding (after speaking with 2 SF members who know a lot about overcoats, upr_cust) I have found out that the most classic and the biggest staple overcoat to have is a navy knee-length overcoat.  Depending on what you get, I seem to think that a single breasted overcoat is a lot sleeker and slightly more formal looking then a DB overcoat.  Obviously that's a personal preference and will change based upon the coat.

 

The questions you need to ask yourself are:

1.) do you want more of a modern (younger man) look?

if so, I'd suggest getting a coat the comes down to just above your knee.

 

2.) Do you plan on wear a suit jacket under it most of the time?

It seems like you will be wearing a jacket under it so you want the right fit.  For fit you want to buy the coat in your typical suit size and have it tailored to fit snuggly in the body when there is a jacket under it.  I'd suggest wearing a suit while shopping for it and having it tailored.  You also should expect some "drape" in the jacket from the waist down to be able to walk and move in it.

 

Finally, to answer your last question.

 

Waist length is not generally supposed to be worn with a suit underneath it.  Typically you'll see people wearing classic pea coats in waist length.  The Pros of the waist length are those jackets are typically more casual, they are easier carry (if you get to hot and don't need it) etc.  The casualness of the coat can also be considered a con.

 

The full length coat cons are since it is long and warm you can really only wear them when it is colder out, its more of a 1 season (winter) coat.  The pros are you can dress them up and wear them formally and you can even dress them down slightly and wear them more causally.  A navy single breasted cashmere coat is very versatile and will probably not go out of style anytime soon.

 

I hope this helped.

 

post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Man Of Lint View Post

A topcoat in Grey Herringbone makes an excellent second choice (after you have one in Navy). Grey Herringbone hides a multitude of sin, for example, dust, lint, slush, dirt, etc.
As for the coat you linked to...
467
I rather like this coat. Who cares if it is vintage or not. This is a coat to have fun in.
Details please and price asked?


Here's the link to the auction if anyone wants it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXCELLENT-VTG-70s-ST-MICHAEL-DBL-BRSTD-BRIDGE-COAT-38-/280769038817?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4650535529415335042#ht_3906wt_1037

 

I ended up taking the advice of the above posters and bought this long navy cashmere coat off eBay. Only cost me £56 pounds!

 

download.png

 

post #14 of 16

Both of those coats look really nice.  

post #15 of 16
It sounds like most of you are wearing your overcoat sleeves too short. They should extend over the top of your hand but not past the vee formed by your thumb and index finger.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/2069/sleeve-length-for-overcoat#post_3660926
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