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logsdail or raphael? - Page 3

post #31 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Foxx View Post
are you also considering italian-style bespoke? Myself, I don't think I'd go to either-- I like Brioni and the like too much over british.

As long as you're shopping around for your next suit, why not take a close look at William Fioravanti at 45 W. 57th street (can't hurt to take a look, and i've been curious about this place since Esquire sent a man there for a killer suit, article can be searched by 'esquire perfect suit Fioravanti'). Just be sure to get double vents in the jacket.

I'd also take a closer look at Rubinacci, don't recall anyone on the forum having a bad or disappointing experience with him. Makes trips to the USA, right?

I'd rather not go with a tailor that just makes trips. I would like to be able to have access to them for as many fittings as possible and also to be able to order more garments anytime.

It is one thing for trousers (like when Ambrosi visits in late Jan. 09) but another for suits.

Fioravanti is REALLY expensive. 10k+ starting for suit.

I'm not sure I want a soft shoulder like photos I've seen of Raphael's suits. As a result I'm leaning towards Len. I'm visiting with him soon but I may stop in to Raphael's to take a look.
post #32 of 289
What about Corvato?
post #33 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
What about Corvato?

carl the shirtmaker speaks very highly of him. i've never seen any photos of his work (although I have seen photos of the man).

Perhaps I meet with him too to get a sense of different tailor operations.
post #34 of 289
Thread Starter 
there is a long discussion of nino's work here:

http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/vi....php?pid=10875
post #35 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
What about Corvato?

The Tailor to the Stars????


- B
post #36 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
The Tailor to the Stars????


- B

david letterman is the one most referenced
post #37 of 289
Have you tried Brioni RTW?
post #38 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Have you tried Brioni RTW?

I tried them on at Bergdorf & Barney's. I tried on quite a few that I honestly forget how the Brioni fit exactly.

P.S. are you being serious or are you being facetious
post #39 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
You can gladly have the same discount previously offered to Grimslade.

post #40 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke View Post
I tried them on at Bergdorf & Barney's. I tried on quite a few that I honestly forget how the Brioni fit exactly.

P.S. are you being serious or are you being facetious

I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.
post #41 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.

I agree with this. The Brioni look seems the most similar to the look he desires, and I don't think bespoke is the way to go at this point.
post #42 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.

I won't annoy the tailor. Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.

My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

I will say I would like the following:
1) Structured shoulder
2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
3) double vent
4) very clean overall suit
5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
6) high armholes
7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.

What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.
post #43 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I'm being serious. I don't think you should try bespoke because, frankly, you're just going to annoy the tailor. I'm not saying this to be mean, but because you have high, yet vague, expectations; both of you are likely to get frustrated. Either he'll wind up wasting his time, or you'll wind up with a suit you're not happy with.

I ask about Brioni RTW because the quality is at least as good as Tom Ford/Zegna and the shoulders are straight and not soft.


If you do decide to ignore the above, you'd probably have the best luck with Logsdale ( straight shoulders, roped sleeves etc.
post #44 of 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke View Post
I won't annoy the tailor. Trust me I'm not as annoying in person as you percieve me to be based on reading my posts.

My expectations are not vague - they are general. For example,

I will say I would like the following:
1) Structured shoulder
2) Supressed waist as much as possible but only if it is flattering (lean overall suit)
3) double vent
4) very clean overall suit
5) slightly wider than normal, notched lapels
6) high armholes
7) flat front slim trouers with side-tabs
8) a nice year-round wool that is soft/luxurious but not overly fragile

This is pretty specific yet can serve as a guideline. I would like to goto a talented tailor and say - OK this is the 8 things I'm looking for, use this as a framework. Then he can construct the suit within these guidelines and fit properly to my body and perhaps make some suggestions based on his experience fitting/ etc.

What more do I need to "know" before going to a bespoke tailor? I think its pretty ridiculous to say I need to be a crazy expert like Michael Anton to buy a bespoke suit.
From what I have heard, Tom Ford makes a suit just like that. You may want to give him a ring.
post #45 of 289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by yachtie View Post
If you do decide to ignore the above, you'd probably have the best luck with Logsdale ( straight shoulders, roped sleeves etc.

Based on my current information set that I am working with - I agree
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