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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 54

post #796 of 3415
I recently decided to get a RTW tuxedo, for the rare occasions where I need one. My criteria were:

-black preferable to midnight blue
-peak lapel preferable to shawl; no notch lapel
-grosgrain lapels preferable to satin
-preferably no belt loops, though I could have them removed
-jetted pockets (really did not want to tuck in flaps or have them removed)
-unvented preferable to side vents; no center vents
-single button
-flat front pants preferable to pleated

It seems picky but I think by formalwear standards its also pretty basic. Really, it's a bread and butter single breasted tuxedo. I went to the major NYC menswear places - Brooks Brothers, J Press, Paul Stuart, and JoS. A. Bank. Nothing really fit the bill. Everything had either notch lapels, or more than one button, or flapped pockets, or a center vent, or a combination of those. The ONLY place that had what I was looking for was Suitsupply. Happily enough, it fit me great in the shoulders and waist, and just needed a little shortening. But it's weird that the classics menswear stores don't make a classic tuxedo, but a more trendy like Suitsupply does. It pretty much hit every criteria I wanted, except for it having side vents - and I suppose I can have those closed at a later date.

The only downside is no vest, but I think that will be the case with all RTW tuxedos. I may swing by brooks Brothers to see if I can convince myself that the lowcut vest separates match the black of the Suitsupply dinner jacket... peepwall[1].gif
post #797 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

Any suggestions for a source of collar studs for detachable collars - the only ones I can find look pretty crappy...

I got mine from Missing Link.

http://www.missinglinknyc.com/
post #798 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

I got mine from Missing Link.
http://www.missinglinknyc.com/

Me too! Nice selection, nice owner.
post #799 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim_horton View Post

I recently decided to get a RTW tuxedo, for the rare occasions where I need one. My criteria were:
-black preferable to midnight blue
-peak lapel preferable to shawl; no notch lapel
-grosgrain lapels preferable to satin
-preferably no belt loops, though I could have them removed
-jetted pockets (really did not want to tuck in flaps or have them removed)
-unvented preferable to side vents; no center vents
-single button
-flat front pants preferable to pleated
It seems picky but I think by formalwear standards its also pretty basic. Really, it's a bread and butter single breasted tuxedo. I went to the major NYC menswear places - Brooks Brothers, J Press, Paul Stuart, and JoS. A. Bank. Nothing really fit the bill. Everything had either notch lapels, or more than one button, or flapped pockets, or a center vent, or a combination of those. The ONLY place that had what I was looking for was Suitsupply. Happily enough, it fit me great in the shoulders and waist, and just needed a little shortening. But it's weird that the classics menswear stores don't make a classic tuxedo, but a more trendy like Suitsupply does. It pretty much hit every criteria I wanted, except for it having side vents - and I suppose I can have those closed at a later date.
The only downside is no vest, but I think that will be the case with all RTW tuxedos. I may swing by brooks Brothers to see if I can convince myself that the lowcut vest separates match the black of the Suitsupply dinner jacket... peepwall[1].gif

While I am not surprised that you didn't find midnight blue at Press or Brooks Brothers, I am surprised that you didn't find a single button peak lapel DJ. I know it doesn't matter now, but did you try Paul Stuart?
post #800 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by tim_horton View Post

I recently decided to get a RTW tuxedo, for the rare occasions where I need one. My criteria were:
-black preferable to midnight blue
-peak lapel preferable to shawl; no notch lapel
-grosgrain lapels preferable to satin
-preferably no belt loops, though I could have them removed
-jetted pockets (really did not want to tuck in flaps or have them removed)
-unvented preferable to side vents; no center vents
-single button
-flat front pants preferable to pleated
It seems picky but I think by formalwear standards its also pretty basic. Really, it's a bread and butter single breasted tuxedo. I went to the major NYC menswear places - Brooks Brothers, J Press, Paul Stuart, and JoS. A. Bank. Nothing really fit the bill. Everything had either notch lapels, or more than one button, or flapped pockets, or a center vent, or a combination of those. The ONLY place that had what I was looking for was Suitsupply. Happily enough, it fit me great in the shoulders and waist, and just needed a little shortening. But it's weird that the classics menswear stores don't make a classic tuxedo, but a more trendy like Suitsupply does. It pretty much hit every criteria I wanted, except for it having side vents - and I suppose I can have those closed at a later date.
The only downside is no vest, but I think that will be the case with all RTW tuxedos. I may swing by brooks Brothers to see if I can convince myself that the lowcut vest separates match the black of the Suitsupply dinner jacket... peepwall[1].gif

While I am not surprised that you didn't find midnight blue at Press or Brooks Brothers, I am surprised that you didn't find a single button notch lapel DJ. I know it doesn't matter now, but did you try Paul Stuart?

He's looking for peak or shawl, but you're right to suggest Paul Stuart: http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6875&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=2011

It's Phineas Cole, though, so may not be classic enough...
post #801 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

He's looking for peak or shawl, but you're right to suggest Paul Stuart: http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6875&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=2011
It's Phineas Cole, though, so may not be classic enough...

That was my first thought as well, though perhaps price is also an issue? The others are considerably less IIRC. Also, BB may not have grosgrain facings, which the OP wanted. Also not sure about the vents on that model. Suit Supply, though, will definitely be a lot less expensive (like less than half most likely) so that could also have been a motive.
post #802 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

He's looking for peak or shawl, but you're right to suggest Paul Stuart: http://www.paulstuart.com/product_info.cfm?ProdID=6875&ProdCatId=1035&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=2011
It's Phineas Cole, though, so may not be classic enough...
Yep. Notch was a typo. Fixed.
post #803 of 3415
I did not see the Phineas Cole model. I definitely would have tried that on just for comparison but once I'm getting to that price I would probably go up a little more and to Ercole to have something made.

The rest of the dinner jackets I saw at the Big Four either had center vents, notch lapels, two button closure on a single breasted jacket, or flaps on the pockets - those were my dealbreakers.
post #804 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim_horton View Post

I did not see the Phineas Cole model. I definitely would have tried that on just for comparison but once I'm getting to that price I would probably go up a little more and to Ercole to have something made.
The rest of the dinner jackets I saw at the Big Four either had center vents, notch lapels, two button closure on a single breasted jacket, or flaps on the pockets - those were my dealbreakers.

Did you see the JAB "signature" tuxedo? It's exactly as you specify except for having a single pleat trouser. Pleats of any kind (except the back of a shirt wink.gif) are a deal-breaker for me, so I understand if that keeps you from going for it.

I definitely think that it's worth going back to PS to try that particular model on. I've sampled them and they are fairly slim and run short. However they work well for someone with a slightly larger drop. I never tried the trousers, though.

I do agree that once you hit $2k you have a lot more to work with but at the same time are defeating much of the purpose of buying OTR (price). And at less than half the price (including shirt, tie and shoes, it would seem), Suit Supply seems like a good deal. The only place I'm thinking it may be lacking is in full canvased construction, but for the amount of wear it sounds like it'll get, that's probably not a big deal.

I know SS does MTO work too, perhaps they can make you a waistcoat to your liking?
post #805 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post

Did you see the JAB "signature" tuxedo? It's exactly as you specify except for having a single pleat trouser. Pleats of any kind (except the back of a shirt wink.gif) are a deal-breaker for me, so I understand if that keeps you from going for it.

A formal trouser should have a high enough rise to meet the cummerbund or vest so that there is not a patch of white shirt showing. Flat front + high rise = grandpa. Pleat front + high rise = comfortable elegance.
Quote:
Suit Supply seems like a good deal. The only place I'm thinking it may be lacking is in full canvased construction, but for the amount of wear it sounds like it'll get, that's probably not a big deal.

SS does some full canvas. Not sure if their formalwear is available so constructed.
post #806 of 3415
I thought flat front was preferred for tuxedos because of the simplicity of line?
post #807 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

I thought flat front was preferred for tuxedos because of the simplicity of line?

If anything, pleats are going to give you a cleaner line, especially if you have a higher rise on the trousers, which would probably be a good thing with a tuxedo--definitely don't want shirt to be showing beneath your jacket.
post #808 of 3415
Mine are flat front.
post #809 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicmax View Post

A formal trouser should have a high enough rise to meet the cummerbund or vest so that there is not a patch of white shirt showing. Flat front + high rise = grandpa. Pleat front + high rise = comfortable elegance.

I would disagree as far as cummerbunds are concerned; those sit wherever you fasten them so there's no chance of seeing shirt beneath. A vest, on the other hand, is limited in how high or low it can go. I prefer the former for a number of reasons including the fact I can wear my tuxedo trousers at the same height as the rest of my suit trousers.
post #810 of 3415
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Mine are flat front.

Mine too, actually, though I wish they werent smile.gif
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