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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 50

post #736 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

To expand further, I think I am going with Mr. Ned after the holiday season. Figure I'll ask here if I have a complete list of things I should do/get?
Starting with this look as the base:

The plan
Jacket
  • Peak lapel - grosgrain facings
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric
  • Single button
  • Besom pockets - or should I omit pockets entirely except for one for a pocket square?
  • Any reason to have working cuff buttons on a tux jacket?
  • Flower loop to hold a boutenneire behind lapel
Waistcoat
  • 2x1 DB U-waistcoat
  • Shawl lapel - grosgrain facings
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric body - or should this be black?
Pants
  • Side adjustors/braces buttons
  • Split, curtained waistband
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric
  • Grosgrain stripe
  • Hidden waistband pocket
Anything I am missing doing wrong? Should I get pick stitching anywhere or other hand detailing?

I actually walked into a cheap Hong Kong tailor with this exact photo and had the tailor make me the DB waistcoat that the guy is wearing in this photo (it's from a Phineas Cole lookbook, which was mentioned earlier). Wasn't ready to spend lots of $$ getting it done by a real tailor, but thought it would be worth just trying out. It turned out exactly as mediocre as I thought it would, but I still wear it every once in a while to switch things up.

Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that, if I were to do it again, I would get a single breasted horseshoe/U shape wasitcoat. I think black tie looks better when there is slightly more shirt front showing, and my double breasted waistcoat covers more shirt than I would like.

Just my two cents.
post #737 of 3507
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by akatsuki View Post

To expand further, I think I am going with Mr. Ned after the holiday season. Figure I'll ask here if I have a complete list of things I should do/get?
Starting with this look as the base:

The plan
Jacket
  • Peak lapel - grosgrain facings
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric
  • Single button
  • Besom pockets - or should I omit pockets entirely except for one for a pocket square?
  • Any reason to have working cuff buttons on a tux jacket?
  • Flower loop to hold a boutenneire behind lapel
Waistcoat
  • 2x1 DB U-waistcoat
  • Shawl lapel - grosgrain facings
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric body - or should this be black?
Pants
  • Side adjustors/braces buttons
  • Split, curtained waistband
  • Midnight blue barathea fabric
  • Grosgrain stripe
  • Hidden waistband pocket
Anything I am missing doing wrong? Should I get pick stitching anywhere or other hand detailing?

I actually walked into a cheap Hong Kong tailor with this exact photo and had the tailor make me the DB waistcoat that the guy is wearing in this photo (it's from a Phineas Cole lookbook, which was mentioned earlier). Wasn't ready to spend lots of $$ getting it done by a real tailor, but thought it would be worth just trying out. It turned out exactly as mediocre as I thought it would, but I still wear it every once in a while to switch things up.

Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that, if I were to do it again, I would get a single breasted horseshoe/U shape wasitcoat. I think black tie looks better when there is slightly more shirt front showing, and my double breasted waistcoat covers more shirt than I would like.

Just my two cents.
post #738 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

Looks like an interesting suit. I'm not clear on the barathea fabric. Aren't most dinner suits worsted?

Worsted barathea is standard for eveningwear in England.
post #739 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by sftiger View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I actually walked into a cheap Hong Kong tailor with this exact photo and had the tailor make me the DB waistcoat that the guy is wearing in this photo (it's from a Phineas Cole lookbook, which was mentioned earlier). Wasn't ready to spend lots of $$ getting it done by a real tailor, but thought it would be worth just trying out. It turned out exactly as mediocre as I thought it would, but I still wear it every once in a while to switch things up.
Anyway, the reason I bring this up is that, if I were to do it again, I would get a single breasted horseshoe/U shape wasitcoat. I think black tie looks better when there is slightly more shirt front showing, and my double breasted waistcoat covers more shirt than I would like.
Just my two cents.

I think the U on the Paul Stuart is too high because of the 6x3. So I was going to do a 2x1 pattern U waistcoat - I am just using the pic as a bit of a guide. I do like DB waistcoats - it prevents a single line of buttons down the middle and adds a subtle bit of visual interest.
post #740 of 3507
I have to take my girl to buy her a black-tie dress because we have an event to go to and she doesn't have one. Any suggestions for where to shop? I have access to the KOP Mall which has Nordstrom's and Neiman Marcus and Macy's and Lord & Taylor among others.
post #741 of 3507
Lord and Taylor for the well made classics. Then Nordstrom for something more affordable.

The advice for a cocktail dress is the same as for a men's suit. It's all about tailoring and fit.

If she has a great figure there is nothing more successful than a well fitted 'little black dress', with the right accessories (bag and shoes).
post #742 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Lord and Taylor for the well made classics. Then Nordstrom for something more affordable.
The advice for a cocktail dress is the same as for a men's suit. It's all about tailoring and fit.
If she has a great figure there is nothing more successful than a well fitted 'little black dress', with the right accessories (bag and shoes).

This is kind of one of her Christmas gifts as well so I'll start at L&T. Thanks!
post #743 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Lord and Taylor for the well made classics. Then Nordstrom for something more affordable.
The advice for a cocktail dress is the same as for a men's suit. It's all about tailoring and fit.
If she has a great figure there is nothing more successful than a well fitted 'little black dress', with the right accessories (bag and shoes).


Has L&T gone upmarket in the last few years? I always thought of them as situated right in between Macy's and Bloomingdales, at least for men's stuff, when it came to fairly traditional clothes. I thought KoP had Bloomies, which is personally where I'd start.
post #744 of 3507
Here's my humble contribution to this thread. Wore it to Rigoletto last night.



Streilson tux (picked it up for $99 a few years ago)
Zegna marcella bib shirt with fly front (no studs)
Carrot and Gibbs satin bowtie
Ralph Lauren cummerbund
Thurston white moire braces
Grenson patent leather shoes
Random vintage smoked mother of pearl cufflinks
post #745 of 3507
Mr. Porter and Brioni teamed up to make the so-called classic tux:

http://www.mrporter.com/product/337437

Looks nice, but I can't figure out why they would do only a half-canvas.
post #746 of 3507

Good god that Brioni is repulsively expensive

 

Heading to a black tie event next week - several of my friends are wearing pre tied bows but taking proper ones in their pockets to sling round their necks later in the evening. I urged them to try tying their own but they seem to view it as a task comparable to cracking the enigma code...

post #747 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by denning View Post

Here's my humble contribution to this thread. Wore it to Rigoletto last night. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Zegna marcella bib shirt with fly front (no studs)

The coat is nice but the absence of studs is quite sad. I find that nice studs really can make the tux shine. On a tux, the studs are more visually important than cufflinks because there is a lot of empty space below the bowtie.
post #748 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

The coat is nice but the absence of studs is quite sad. I find that nice studs really can make the tux shine. On a tux, the studs are more visually important than cufflinks because there is a lot of empty space below the bowtie.

Were I to go sans-waist covering I'd only do so with such a shirt as a shirt with studs would show an awkward transition from studs to buttons about 2/3 of the way down. You also don't have the issue of most modern formal shirts having four stud holes but many vintage stud sets having only three studs.
post #749 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliPalmer View Post

Mr. Porter and Brioni teamed up to make the so-called classic tux:
http://www.mrporter.com/product/337437
Looks nice, but I can't figure out why they would do only a half-canvas.

Perhaps it's a typo? Particularly at that price I cannot imagine Brioni even making a garment that wasn't full canvased.
post #750 of 3507
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiliPalmer View Post

Mr. Porter and Brioni teamed up to make the so-called classic tux:

http://www.mrporter.com/product/337437

Looks nice, but I can't figure out why they would do only a half-canvas.

The larger travesty is the fashion-y cut. Low-rise trousers, high button, gorge almost at the shoulders, bum freezer length... Ugh.
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