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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 46

post #676 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Wang View Post

The trouser button attachment is pretty cool. But you would need a button sewn into your trousers for this, right? I've never seen trousers with such a button, but you could have that sewn on pretty easily. It may be tricky having the buttonhole on the shirt placed in the right spot as torso height varies from person to person.

I'm guessing that you're meant to sew the button into the trousers yourself (or have a tailor do it) for this exact reason. The extra flap has to go in that specific place on the shirt, but you could sew the button into the trousers at any height. Also, I think it is supposed to be a shirt button, given the size of the holes.

I do wonder, though, whether the BB site got it right and that hole is meant to secure the shirt to the trousers or the waistcoat. You'll notice that the shirt referenced has three stud holes, and that the flap with the buttonholes feeds from where a the fourth buttonhole would usually be. Now, look at BB's white tie waistcoat:

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/White-Cotton-Pique-Tuxedo-Vest/999I________WHIT_LG_______,default,pd.html?omnpp=recently%20viewed

That fourth button hole position is directly behind the waistcoat, not inside the trousers.

On black tie, I was always under the impression that the buttonhole inside the cummerbund was meant to fasten to one's shirt and now I'm just wondering if they've done the opposite for white tie. Having the shirt attach to the waistcoat actually makes more sense; the other would be very uncomfortable for sitting/standing and this way any untucking that happens happens behind the waistcoat but the front of the outfit appears perfectly in line all night.
post #677 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post

I do wonder, though, whether the BB site got it right and that hole is meant to secure the shirt to the trousers or the waistcoat

I have the full BB white-tie getup (GF tailcoat & trouser, pique a/k/a marcella waistcoat, GF detachable collar shirt, marcella bow-tie, silk hose and Peal & Co. patent balmorals). The shirt has, from the top, a collar stud hole, then 3 formal stud holes down the bib, then the flap (with two buttonholes so that men of different heights can choose the appropriate hole into which the trouser button is inserted), then a regular horizontal buttonhole.

The waistcoat features an elastic loop at the bottom. Thus the shirt flap can be threaded through the waistcoat loop and affixed to the trouser, or the waistcoat loop and the shirt buttonhole can both affix to the trouser button. Remember that the GF tailcoat trouser is pleated with a long rise and is thus meant to be worn rather high in order to meet the waistcoat. Trust me it all comes together wonderfully, not anything like the black-cummerbund, black stud-set, black tie, turndown collar pleated front abomination on the BB website. That should cost someone's job - it's obvious they did the black-tie photo shoot and then just gave the model the tailcoat jacket to throw on.

My one frustration with white tie is that I've never been able to successfully tie one of those thick marcella bow ties and thus had to fall back to the BB pre-tied variety.
post #678 of 3406
Thought this would be the right place to post this; a little PSA for anyone seeking a proper shawl tuxedo at a reasonable price:

http://yoox.com/us/49125582HP/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=49125582HP&sizeId=
post #679 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post

Thought this would be the right place to post this; a little PSA for anyone seeking a proper shawl tuxedo at a reasonable price:
http://yoox.com/us/49125582HP/item?dept=men#sts=sr_men80&cod10=49125582HP&sizeId=

Nice tux, what's up with the disheveled blue shirt puzzled.gif
post #680 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Good point.
I'm pretty set on having a cream Dupioni DB shawl, 4x1, dinner jacket made. I haven't decided who, yet, though.
ever get this made up?
post #681 of 3406
FC has departed StyFo, TD.
post #682 of 3406
I was out in DC last night at a cigar club and saw a gent in a fully correct black tie rig, at least from the waist up - didn't get a look at the shoes. I suppose this is where I register this observation for posterity. If it was one of you gents, well done.
post #683 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicmax View Post

Nice tux, what's up with the disheveled blue shirt puzzled.gif

Unfortunately they don't differentiate between suits and tuxedos on Yoox (search for "tuxedo" and you're unlikely to find anything) and so they probably just have a guy trying on one after the other without switching shirts.
post #684 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I was out in DC last night at a cigar club and saw a gent in a fully correct black tie rig, at least from the waist up - didn't get a look at the shoes. I suppose this is where I register this observation for posterity. If it was one of you gents, well done.

Another note for posterity - I hosted a black tie optional private event over the weekend in DC for a large group of friends and acquaintances, half expecting only a tiny minority would turn up in black tie. Boy, was I wrong. Of the 60+ people who attended - most of them in their late 20s and early 30s - an overwhelming majority of the men turned up in correct black tie attire (I would like to think that me sharing the link to the black tie guide months ahead of the party had something to do with this, but there's no way of telling). And last week I went to a James Bond-themed party also in the DC area, mainly attended by people in their 20s and more black tie rigs were sighted there than I would usually expect from that age group.

There is hope yet!
post #685 of 3406
One question: why was I not invited?
post #686 of 3406
I was also in DC over the weekend at a black tie optional wedding - some turned out in black tie, but most did not. I didn't anticipate many showing up in black tie (large % of guests from the mid-west). I saw a handful in studs and patent leather, though. One man wore a sport coat with a white shirt buttoned to the top, no tie at all, and a pair of puma soccer shoes. I did not see him speak to another individual the entire night. On another note, what a great city. We truly enjoyed ourselves, and I have a new fondness for the st. regis hotel chain.
post #687 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

One question: why was I not invited?
inorite?
post #688 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

One question: why was I not invited?

Haha. If you are willing to subject yourself to four weeks of waltz classes leading up to the party - along with other tortures - you can come to the next one. If there is one.
post #689 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post


Haha. If you are willing to subject yourself to four weeks of waltz classes leading up to the party - along with other tortures - you can come to the next one. If there is one.

I'm already nice with the waltz....invite?

post #690 of 3406
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyMac View Post

I'm already nice with the waltz....invite?

It needs to be the Viennese waltz. Practitioners of the slow waltz will be ruthlessly ridiculed.
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