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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 298

post #4456 of 4595

Looking for suggestions for a RTW U-shaped waistcoat. My brother-in-law has to prepare for a black tie event on short notice. I'm helping him pull together a decent outfit but that seems to be the most difficult item to come by. The Ede & Ravenscroft looks OK but shipping etc. might take too long. And I'm not super enthusiastic about the look of it. Might go cumberbund because it's easier, but I think the waistcoat would be a nice touch. Thanks!

post #4457 of 4595
Charles Tyrhwitt is an option, but again, shipping time might not be ideal.
post #4458 of 4595

The CT one looks like it has a bit nicer shape (from what one can tell from photos). But it looks to be all wool instead of having grosgrain facing on the lapels. Not a huge deal, but it's always interesting which details a company chooses to include with these things. Thanks! Other ideas welcome, of course.

post #4459 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClassicKerim View Post
 

I believe Brioni have just made a significant contribution to the state of black tie with their new 3-piece continental line.

 

I was been looking for a dinner jacket for some Operas, classy Casinos and basically any excuse to dress up. I was looking at the Tom Ford Spectre white tux jacket but it's too much for only the jacket (for me at least) bearing in mind I don't have any of the other components. I looked in Brioni for a dinner jacket and was shown the continental and a jacket from their previous line. I'm only 27, the traditional jacket hung on me, but the Continental was super sharp but in a Brioni classic way. The way it holds your body up due to the Mohair mixture is great for a strong look.

 

It's peaked lapel, fabric one-button and smoky sheen make it a fantastic evening option, and you're likely to look like the sharpest guy in the room. 

 

Just my opinion for anyone looking for a great black tie set. 


Discussion in the "What is wrong with Brioni?" thread is that the current continental line is fused- can you confirm?

post #4460 of 4595

And as long as I'm asking questions, I'm thinking of suggesting that he get shirt that he can use later with a suit, since he doesn't have an extensive business wardrobe. Maybe a royal oxford with double cuffs and front placket? Seem within the range of acceptable? Proper Cloth seems to have some decent options.

post #4461 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 


Those are really hideous.

Details? I'm not really a fan of pumps in general, and would only wear them at a private event, but the plain calf skin doesnt look terrible to me. Care to expound?

post #4462 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by TokenMao View Post
 

 

Allen Edmonds Mayfair (if you don't mind open lacing)


Looks like they are no longer making these.  That's too bad, I like allen edmonds.

post #4463 of 4595
I can confirm that the Continetal is fully canvassed. They weren't 100% in the store as the line is new and they confirmed over the phone with their HQ.
post #4464 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrong Crowd View Post


Discussion in the "What is wrong with Brioni?" thread is that the current continental line is fused- can you confirm?

Sorry for the repeat, the quote didn't work before.

I can confirm that the new Continental 3-piece is fully canvassed. They were not even 100% in the store as the line is new, but they called into HQ and confirmed the good news; fully canvased.
Edited by ClassicKerim - 9/16/16 at 1:39pm
post #4465 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

Looking for suggestions for a RTW U-shaped waistcoat. My brother-in-law has to prepare for a black tie event on short notice. I'm helping him pull together a decent outfit but that seems to be the most difficult item to come by. The Ede & Ravenscroft looks OK but shipping etc. might take too long. And I'm not super enthusiastic about the look of it. Might go cumberbund because it's easier, but I think the waistcoat would be a nice touch. Thanks!


I know of no US-based retailer that has OTR U-shaped formal waistcoats. I agree with you that such a waistcoat is a nice touch, but if time is of the essence, a cummerbund is your best bet.

 

Also, white shirt.

post #4466 of 4595

Rather than patent, how well would these work?  

 

http://shoebank.com/FactorySecondInventory.php?STY=8830S&DIM=E&SIZE=100

post #4467 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

And as long as I'm asking questions, I'm thinking of suggesting that he get shirt that he can use later with a suit, since he doesn't have an extensive business wardrobe. Maybe a royal oxford with double cuffs and front placket? Seem within the range of acceptable? Proper Cloth seems to have some decent options.


I'd say no to this. If the event is special enough to wear black tie, then it is special enough not to skimp on the essentials. Black tie is, to my  mind, the one remaining realm of men's clothing where symbols of frugality are frowned on. If you only ever wear it once, don't look like you were trying to stretch your budget, or the usefulness of your clothes beyond their intended purpose. For this reason I also say no to calf skin oxfords with black tie.

post #4468 of 4595

^ Fair points. It's not like getting a good white dress shirt for a suit is a tremendous burden. Shoes are tougher though. I guess there are plenty of decent patent leather shoes that aren't too expensive. This is a special event, but I think pumps or slippers wouldn't be appropriate.

post #4469 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post


I'd say no to this. If the event is special enough to wear black tie, then it is special enough not to skimp on the essentials. Black tie is, to my  mind, the one remaining realm of men's clothing where symbols of frugality are frowned on. If you only ever wear it once, don't look like you were trying to stretch your budget, or the usefulness of your clothes beyond their intended purpose. For this reason I also say no to calf skin oxfords with black tie.

I agree with all of this except the no to calfskin oxfords part, though I may be biased due to my hatred of patent leather. That said, I do have a pair of plain toed oxfords that I shine really well and pretty much only ever wear with black tie. When I am wearing a suit and white shirt, I use a pair of punched toe oxfords.
post #4470 of 4595
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


I agree with all of this except the no to calfskin oxfords part, though I may be biased due to my hatred of patent leather. That said, I do have a pair of plain toed oxfords that I shine really well and pretty much only ever wear with black tie. When I am wearing a suit and white shirt, I use a pair of punched toe oxfords.


Although I love patent leather, I agree with @archibaldleach on this. Well-shined calf oxfords are fine.

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