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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 285

post #4261 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober28 View Post

As I see it I have three options: 1) Buy the Darcy shirt and get it tailored. However, 4" seems like an excessive amount of tailoring for sleeves and I do not even know if such a thing is possible...

I've seen people keep their sleeves up using a rubber band at their biceps. If you are wearing a DJ it won't show. That's the simplest last minute fix I have for you.
post #4262 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by palk View Post
 


Intriguing; I never would have thought of a black seersucker DJ.  It seems perfect for those warm San Jose nights; I'll have to put a kit together for summer wear.  Are the waistcoat and trousers also in the same fabric?

 

It was a limited-edition thing from Brooks Brothers a couple years ago...or maybe last year...it's all a bit foggy now. I liked the idea of a seersucker DJ for summer wear as an alternative to my ivory DJ. The jacket did indeed come with seersucker dress trousers. I refuse to wear them. To my wife's great chagrin. But it's just not happening. In the photographs, the waistcoat and trousers are a standard black barathea. I forget offhand who the cloth vendor is.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedyDandy View Post
 

 

That's brilliant. Nice take on a warm-climate black tie kit without going with a WDJ.

 

I have an ivory DJ, also. Which one I wear is decided on a whim.

post #4263 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober28 View Post

Greetings all,

I hope your advice can help me as I am in a bit of a time sensitive bind.

On the 22nd of this month (13 days) I have a black tie event that I am attending. For arcane reasons that aren't worth going into here, tradition dictates that men wear full dress stiff front shirts with detachable wing collars and black formal vests. While I realize that to some (especially those across the pond) this might seem unthinkable, for this event it is non-negotiable.

All of my other friends have just bought the BB Golden Fleece full dress shirt for this event. I, unfortunately, do not have quite the same degree of financial latitude that they do. As such I began investigating British sources, and had settled upon the Darcy Washable Stiff Front Shirt when I realized the only sleeve length it comes in is 36". I wear a 32" sleeve. I have been unable to locate a full dress shirt with 32" sleeves on the Internet or eBay.

As I see it I have three options: 1) Buy the Darcy shirt and get it tailored. However, 4" seems like an excessive amount of tailoring for sleeves and I do not even know if such a thing is possible. Additionally I am not familiar enough with international shipping timetables and tailoring timelines to calculate whether I could have the shirt ready by the time my event comes around. 2) Bite the bullet and by the BB Shirt. Not attractive financially but doable if necessary, preferably as a last resort. 3) Find an alternative shirt in some source I have overlooked that the better educated on this forum can direct me to.

Please let me know how you think I ought to proceed.

I own the Darcy shirt and can tell you it's very good (not the softest cotton on the body, but in other respects I very much like it).
They ship quite quickly, but I have no idea on their customer service. Best give them a call

(As a side note - I bought and wore it for my graduation - University of Edinburgh - where wing collar, white bow tie, dark suit were the dress code, along with academic robes, obviously. I wore morning dress).
If there's interest, I can find a pic smile.gif
post #4264 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by palk View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedOctober28 View Post

Greetings all,


I hope your advice can help me as I am in a bit of a time sensitive bind.


On the 22nd of this month (13 days) I have a black tie event that I am attending. For arcane reasons that aren't worth going into here, tradition dictates that men wear full dress stiff front shirts with detachable wing collars and black formal vests. While I realize that to some (especially those across the pond) this might seem unthinkable, for this event it is non-negotiable.


All of my other friends have just bought the BB Golden Fleece full dress shirt for this event. I, unfortunately, do not have quite the same degree of financial latitude that they do. As such I began investigating British sources, and had settled upon the Darcy Washable Stiff Front Shirt when I realized the only sleeve length it comes in is 36". I wear a 32" sleeve. I have been unable to locate a full dress shirt with 32" sleeves on the Internet or eBay.


As I see it I have three options: 1) Buy the Darcy shirt and get it tailored. However, 4" seems like an excessive amount of tailoring for sleeves and I do not even know if such a thing is possible. Additionally I am not familiar enough with international shipping timetables and tailoring timelines to calculate whether I could have the shirt ready by the time my event comes around. 2) Bite the bullet and by the BB Shirt. Not attractive financially but doable if necessary, preferably as a last resort. 3) Find an alternative shirt in some source I have overlooked that the better educated on this forum can direct me to.


Please let me know how you think I ought to proceed.


As someone who owns the BB full dress shirt, I will say that you will need to get its sleeves shortened as well; nothing about that shirt fit particularly well.  However, the thing about sleeves is that they can be shortened with a sleeve garter as they are to remain under your jacket all evening, so the only details that really matter are the bib the cuffs and the collar.  A sleeve garter is certainly not the most elegant solution but I'd say that with the pinch you're in, it's adequate and cheap.

I can't say whether Darcy can deliver to you in 13 days, but BB isn't the quickest either so I'd recommend picking whichever has the most acceptable guaranteed delivery date / price and having it despatched immediately.

+1 If it is the only possibility sleeve garters work.
post #4265 of 4600
All,
Thanks for the replies. I called up the kind folks at Darcy and their courier quoted me next day delivery for only £8 more than the standard 10 day shipping. Not sure how that makes any sense but I was happy to take them up on it. Consequently I also invested in a pair of $5 sleeve garters from Amazon, although there may yet be time to get the sleeves taken in.

Regarding the nature of the event itself, It's a traditional event put on by an old area school. It's seems that the most flummoximg dress codes almost always seem to be affiliated with a school for whatever reason. This particular event is frozen in time at least as far as attire is concerned.

Thanks again for everyone 's help.
post #4266 of 4600
My Black Tie Rig:

(I realize I am breaking "the rules" with my vest and my non-patent shoes, but this is what I like.)




post #4267 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai View Post

My Black Tie Rig:

(I realize I am breaking "the rules" with my vest and my non-patent shoes, but this is what I like.)

 

I think you look pretty good. The vest, while just an ordinary v-necked vest, isn't terrible. Black calf shoes with a good shine are an acceptable alternative to patent. Not bad at all!

post #4268 of 4600
Kai, not bad. I hate patent leather and wear highly shined calfskin Oxfords. The vest in that color would be perfect if a lower cut waistcoat (bonus for DB). Thanks for posting.
post #4269 of 4600
My shoes are Alden black shell cordovan buffed to as high of a shine as I can make them.

Pocket square is one of my Grandmother's hand embroidered handkerchiefs.

Not seen are my braces, which are cream silk and are the ones my Grandfather wore on his wedding day.
post #4270 of 4600
^ I'd quibble with the cordovan, but that's just me. I love that you have vintage touches and pieces with family history. That sort of thing is wonderful if you have access to it.
post #4271 of 4600
I thought that perhaps a different style bow tie might work better with your build...you seem to be a bigger bulkier gent and then the bow tie appears to become almost formless between you & the amount of cloth it takes to cover you....that's just what I'm picking up aesthetically myself though I'm not sure how many others would agree with me.
post #4272 of 4600
I've been trying to figure out why I don't like that white vest at all, and now I realise it's because it's visually similar to just wearing a white shirt without tucking it in. I think it would look much better with a black vest, or as Archibald says, at least a shorter vest if it must be white. Just my unsolicited two pence.
post #4273 of 4600
Seeking the opinions of readers of this thread.

I bought my DS/tuxedo before my wedding: 13 years ago. Got married in it, wore it to a couple of other weddings and a charity event. Haven't worn it in 7 or 8 years.

In a few months my wife's cousin is getting married in a black-tie wedding in Miami. This morning I went deep into the closet to check out the black tie ensemble. I was pleased to see that the tuxedo, which I bought before I knew about these things, generally conforms to the good style that I've read about on this thread. No vent, no pocket flaps, etc. (Yes, it has notch lapels...)

I am also very pleased that everything still fits me well!

Here's where my question comes in. With the tuxedo I found two white shirts. One is a turn-down collar with pique ("marcella") front. The other is a wing collar with a pleated front. Both have French cuffs.

My initial feeling was that the wing collar is more classic, but a quick look at black tie guide suggests that a wing collar is perhaps not the best choice after all.

Thoughts? Thanks!
post #4274 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by J o s h View Post

Seeking the opinions of readers of this thread.

I bought my DS/tuxedo before my wedding: 13 years ago. Got married in it, wore it to a couple of other weddings and a charity event. Haven't worn it in 7 or 8 years.

In a few months my wife's cousin is getting married in a black-tie wedding in Miami. This morning I went deep into the closet to check out the black tie ensemble. I was pleased to see that the tuxedo, which I bought before I knew about these things, generally conforms to the good style that I've read about on this thread. No vent, no pocket flaps, etc. (Yes, it has notch lapels...)

I am also very pleased that everything still fits me well!

Here's where my question comes in. With the tuxedo I found two white shirts. One is a turn-down collar with pique ("marcella") front. The other is a wing collar with a pleated front. Both have French cuffs.

My initial feeling was that the wing collar is more classic, but a quick look at black tie guide suggests that a wing collar is perhaps not the best choice after all.

Thoughts? Thanks!

Marcella front shirt wins in a landslide in my book. Wing collar is great with white tie and can be okay if you are doing black tie with peak lapels and a proper waistcoat, but not a good choice for shawl or (gasp) notch lapels. Since your tuxedo has notch lapels, I wouldn't wear the shirt that works for white tie or with peak lapels.
post #4275 of 4600
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Marcella front shirt wins in a landslide in my book. Wing collar is great with white tie and can be okay if you are doing black tie with peak lapels and a proper waistcoat, but not a good choice for shawl or (gasp) notch lapels. Since your tuxedo has notch lapels, I wouldn't wear the shirt that works for white tie or with peak lapels.


I agree completely. In addition, wing-collar shirts only really work properly if the collar is detachable and heavily starched. Else it just won't work properly and tend to collapse under the tie. So, give it away. Wear the marcella front shirt.

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