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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 29

post #421 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

So, I just went to a black tie wedding over the weekend in D.C. and made some observations of what people wore. I don't go to black tie events more than once or twice a year so my exposure is highly limited. So, I thought it might be interesting to compare and contrast with others on the forum have observed. What is the state of black tie, in your personal experience? Please provide some context (ex: 1% vs. 99% guest list . . . j/k j/k, calm down).
My observations:
The event was an evening wedding at a nice hotel in D.C. (black tie stipulated on invitation), with ~250 guests (no children invited) who were mostly professionals and covered a very broad age spectrum (20-80 years old).
Almost all men wore black, but just as many wore black suits as proper dinner jackets. Of those wearing dinner jackets, the vast majority had something 'wrong' per the rules circulated on the forums: lots of two- or three-button single-breasted jackets, more notch lapels than peak lapels, vents almost universally present. More esoteric options were almost entirely absent. One other person other than myself wore a shawl lapeled jacket.
Shirts were mostly white, regularly buttoning business shirts. I only noticed two or three men in studs, and they were all older gentlemen. All studs I saw were simple onyx on gold or silver. I noticed no other guests wearing single cuffs. However, I also noticed no barrel cuffs, either. Everyone wore French cuffs.
Cummerbunds and vests were rare. Maybe a third or fourth of the men there wore bow ties. The clear majority wore long, black ties. A surprising number wore pocket squares, but not well--lots of folded white silk.
Shoes were a random assortment. It appeared as if men simply picked whatever black business shoes they happen to own. A lot of ugly square-toed loafers. Lots of cap toes, brogues and derbies. I saw maybe four or five other men in patent leather. No evening slippers to be seen.
There seemed to be no discernible norm for women. Some wore short cocktail dresses (as my wife did) and some wore long, floor-length gowns. Some even wore dressy blouses with short skirts. Generally the dress length correlated with age. Many had the good sense to wear some sort of shawl during the ceremony (which was very religious), but I was surprised by the number that remained bare shouldered. At the past few non-black tie weddings I've been to, shawls were universally worn during the ceremony.

I disagree with your objection to notch lapel tuxes. Mine purchased from Paul Stuart in
1965 (It still fits!) is natural shoulder with notch lapels. I wore it with a silk vest and an
off-white silk evening shirt, which I still have, but no longer fits.
post #422 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Please don't make this speech again. Thank you.

463
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post

I'm sure they weren't even thinking about this, but I could get behind having slightly more break on a tuxedo trouser if the wearer is also wearing evening slippers or pumps. With a regular oxford a trouser with virtually no break sits atop the shoe nicely and contributes to a continuous flow. With the less substantial pump or slipper that continuity is lost if there is no break, particularly since there's space to see more sock.
I have read (but can no longer locate) advice that the tuxedo trouser is to be hemmed on a bias, allowing no break at the front while draping over the collar and part of the counter. I can't find a picture.
post #423 of 3383
^ That works for normal pents too. Even with cuffs my alterations tailor can get a difference of about 1 cm i lenght from back to front. Helps with a clean no-break in front while minimizing the risk of the high water look at the back.
post #424 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I disagree with your objection to notch lapel tuxes. Mine purchased from Paul Stuart in
1965 (It still fits!) is natural shoulder with notch lapels. I wore it with a silk vest and an
off-white silk evening shirt, which I still have, but no longer fits.

I feel like there was two or three pages of debate regarding this towards the beginning of the threak. Anyway, my main objection to them is (now) not so much historical incorrectness but that it brings the tux one step closer to the business suit, which I feel ruins some of the effect. Not that a notch lapel tux is necessarily "wrong", I just think it's less elegant than a peak or shawl version. My personal preference is for peaks.
post #425 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

^ That works for normal pents too. Even with cuffs my alterations tailor can get a difference of about 1 cm i lenght from back to front. Helps with a clean no-break in front while minimizing the risk of the high water look at the back.

The difficulty, with a lot of today's trousers, is that this has less impact when done on a very tapered bottom. In fact, it's the reason I stopped having the tailors taper mine; by leaving them a touch wider I could get this effect.
post #426 of 3383

Well, it can't be good when Hickey Freeman advertises this as a "Full Dress Tuxedo":

 

001398100078.detail.c.jpg

post #427 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parterre View Post

Well, it can't be good when Hickey Freeman advertises this as a "Full Dress Tuxedo":

Bizarre. Like a butler whose employer dressed him incorrectly so as to distinguish him from guests.

But props to Hickey for keeping the swallowtail coat alive.
post #428 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

Bizarre. Like a butler whose employer dressed him incorrectly so as to distinguish him from guests.
But props to Hickey for keeping the swallowtail coat alive.

Isn't that kind of like congratulating people on inbreeding to keep the human race alive?
post #429 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimelesStyle View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

Bizarre. Like a butler whose employer dressed him incorrectly so as to distinguish him from guests.
But props to Hickey for keeping the swallowtail coat alive.

Isn't that kind of like congratulating people on inbreeding to keep the human race alive?

If that's what it takes.
post #430 of 3383
299
post #431 of 3383

One can dream. I also got butler vibes from that Hickey Freeman rig. 

 

But I think the state of black tie is better than I thought when one sees this being worn by characters on a show meant for tweens. Now, I've been wavering on pocket flaps; I am no longer sure whether they belong in the "personal-but-not-my-taste" category with notched lapels or the "incorrect" category with venting. The button stance may be too high, lapels are too narrow for my taste (but I like them very wide, if not abnormally so), they all seem somewhat ill fitting, and the watches are terribly clunky (but I surmise that may be part of the "plot"), but besides that our Nickelodeon friends are dressed quite well:

 

big-time-movie-pic-james-maslow-28631465-1222-817.jpg


Edited by Parterre - 3/10/12 at 8:05am
post #432 of 3383
Nickelodeon is pretty much an exact paradigm for reality.

What other tweens shows do you watch?
post #433 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Nickelodeon is pretty much an exact paradigm for reality.
What other tweens shows do you watch?


I don't. I happened to see the dinner suits while channel flipping and was intrigued. But if what you say is true, then black tie is in better shape than it has been in years. Alas, I'm skeptical.

 

post #434 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parterre View Post



I don't.


Not even iCarly?
post #435 of 3383
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parterre View Post



I don't. I happened to see the dinner suits while channel flipping and was intrigued. But if what you say is true, then black tie is in better shape than it has been in years. Alas, I'm skeptical.

One can always hope ...blush.gif
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