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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 277

post #4141 of 4607

So there's a BT sale on the Austin Reed site, and I'm in need of a pair of evening trousers. Looking at this one which is the only one that explicitly states satin stripe, but it's a 70/30 wool/poly blend. In the pictures of the other models (here) it's not possible to see whether the seam is covered or not.

Is anyone familiar with their BT trouser models? Thinking quality in general, and trouser rise specifically. 

post #4142 of 4607
Why would you buy separate trousers unless you already had the matching jacket in the exact same fabric? Juat because the rig is technically a dinner jacket and trousers (NOT suit) does not mean that material shouldn't match. Black tie should be luxurious. Stick to pure wool.
post #4143 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrock View Post

Why would you buy separate trousers unless you already had the matching jacket in the exact same fabric? Juat because the rig is technically a dinner jacket and trousers (NOT suit) does not mean that material shouldn't match. Black tie should be luxurious. Stick to pure wool.

Sorry, should of course have mentioned that the trousers are to go with my three odd DJs, a Gieves with a faint self stripe, an ivory DB, and a more fashion forward midnight floral paisley (to which matching trousers would look, to quote General McAuliffe, nuts). I'm a student, my diploma will allow me to commission a proper rig, but as yet thrifting and "close enough" will have to suffice.
post #4144 of 4607
At least one of them tried to tie a bow tie (there's no way a pre-tied one would be so lopsided). Both have peak lapels. Not sure about the shirt fronts without a closer view, but really the most glaring thing is Zuck's long tie and possibly some fit issues. Celebrities at the Oscars often do way worse.
post #4145 of 4607

More on the topic of "state of" and the evolution of BT, what's your take on this number?

post #4146 of 4607
I disagree. I think it is a pretied bow at a weird angle. Not remotely close to collar either, which suggests as much and looks awful. Zero cuff. Zuckerburg with a tie and shirt collar doesn't fit. Too slim peak worse than notch. Jacket looks short and he's positively bursting out of his trousers.

As for the Oscars, well yes, I know from experience that that is the case. What exactly are stylists paid for? Ironically Hollywood was better dressed when grown men dressed themselves.
post #4147 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post
 

More on the topic of "state of" and the evolution of BT, what's your take on this number?

I like it for the most part.  The cut is very good and shows a lot of shirt (though my preference would be for the closure buttons to be at waist level, pocket level works too), the piped edges on the lapels are a nice touch that I'd like to see more of.  However, the white contrast stitching on the flaps, sleeves, and chest pocket needs to be removed and restitched in black.  I'm not as anti-pocketflap as some people, but I think the proportions would be a little better with them gone or tucked in.

post #4148 of 4607
Don't buy 70/30 wool poly. You can easily find better quality separate tux pants for cheaper on eBay or at a thrift store.
post #4149 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post

More on the topic of "state of" and the evolution of BT, what's your take on this number?

You already have three odd DJs. Why would you spend money on that?
post #4150 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post

More on the topic of "state of" and the evolution of BT, what's your take on this number?

You already have three odd DJs. Why would you spend money on that?

 

This one comes with pants!

post #4151 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

This one comes with pants!

Ah ha, that's a good reason then. biggrin.gif

It's not my cup of tea, but if you like it, then why not?
post #4152 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post

You already have three odd DJs. Why would you spend money on that?
I wouldn't. The post pertained to the topic of this thread wink.gif I've seen this kind of piping on morning coats, but not on a dinner jacket. Is there any historical precedent for this style?
post #4153 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdductorMagnus View Post


I wouldn't. The post pertained to the topic of this thread wink.gif I've seen this kind of piping on morning coats, but not on a dinner jacket. Is there any historical precedent for this style?


Yes, it was very common in the late 1800s-1920s. The Black Tie Guide website is great but sometimes it skews history a little bit. At a certain point in the 1920s for instance, pretty much all anyone was wearing was a shawl. There are more fads than are acknowledged and none are technically wrong.


Edited by tbrock - 2/5/16 at 1:09am
post #4154 of 4607
Historical precedent or not, I just don't think it looks that nice on a dj.
post #4155 of 4607
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post

Historical precedent or not, I just don't think it looks that nice on a dj.
I would agree. Don't like it much on morning coats either.

For my trousers, I guess I'll patrol eBay and savvyrow for vintage. Other tips?
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