or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The State of Black Tie: Your Observations
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 28

post #406 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonasAberg View Post

I was under the impression that a dinner jacket should always be buttoned (when standing) as it creates a dramatic white triangle, contrasting with the surrounding black, emphasizing the wearers face and giving the youthful, strong appearance of broad shoulders and narrow waist.
Wearing it unbuttoned loses the dramatic flair the garment is capable of. That's why I wear it buttoned.

The three-button backless vest allows for the white triangle as well as the option of unbuttoned comfort, assuming the construction of the jacket allows it to still follow the torso.
post #407 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicmax View Post

I got my rig primarily from Brooks Brothers for my wedding in 2008 and have worn it to at least one event annually since. Other than the torture of pinching the front shirt stud through four layers of shirt and starched collar, the formal shirt may be the most cherished garment I own - the side vent allows you to place one hand behind the placket so that you can install the studs without wrinkling the pique, while the buttons, tabs and buttonholes let you attach the shirt, vest and pants in such a way that they all stay in place all night.
BB Golden Fleece Tailcoat with pants: $1600 on sale for $999 (currently unavailable on their website)
BB Golden Fleece Formal Shirt with detachable collar (single French cuff, stiff pique bib front): $225
BB White Formal Vest (white pique to match shirt): $175
* BB Black Patent Leather Laceups: ~ $350
* BB Black Silk Socks: ~ $30
BB white pique self-tie bow tie: ~ $50
Unknown brand white silk braces with braided loops: don't recall price; from some discount store such as Sym's
* Thomas Pink MOP formal set: ~ $250
The * items you may already have as they work for black tie as well as white. You may have a pique shirt but the BB just works perfectly.

I'm not sure if BB still stocks tailcoats. The BB store I usually go to used to have them in the formalwear section but on my last visit (a month ago) they are no longer there. And as you said, the tailcoat used to be available on-line but not anymore.

I was looking at your list: did you forget gloves? The few guys that were in white tie at the balls all wore gloves. It was not clear to me what kind of material the gloves were made of though. People on this forum have mentioned white dress gloves made of leather (BB makes them), but I figured that would be really uncomfortable for the lady you're dancing with, especially if she's wearing a backless gown. Your thoughts?
post #408 of 3158
In the past I've noticed the formalwear items come and go on the online store. (e.g. I just picked up a black batwing bow tie in the post-Xmas sale, but it's no longer there. The self-tie white tie has also disappeared and reappeared frequently.) Hopefully this isn't permanent because I will be in the market for new tails soon.
post #409 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post


I was looking at your list: did you forget gloves? The few guys that were in white tie at the balls all wore gloves. It was not clear to me what kind of material the gloves were made of though. People on this forum have mentioned white dress gloves made of leather (BB makes them), but I figured that would be really uncomfortable for the lady you're dancing with, especially if she's wearing a backless gown. Your thoughts?

Yeah I didn't do gloves at the wedding because the other men in the wedding party wore tails as well and I didn't want them to incur the expense of purchasing gloves that they'd never wear again (I had a pair of those $8 cotton ones and I wouldn't wish those on anyone!).
post #410 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post

I'm not sure if BB still stocks tailcoats. The BB store I usually go to used to have them in the formalwear section but on my last visit (a month ago) they are no longer there. And as you said, the tailcoat used to be available on-line but not anymore.
I was looking at your list: did you forget gloves? The few guys that were in white tie at the balls all wore gloves. It was not clear to me what kind of material the gloves were made of though. People on this forum have mentioned white dress gloves made of leather (BB makes them), but I figured that would be really uncomfortable for the lady you're dancing with, especially if she's wearing a backless gown. Your thoughts?

The BB flagship at 346 Madison had tailcoats last time I checked.
post #411 of 3158
My observation is that black tie is in a parlous state if this is how "the newspaper of record" advises men to do it:

Guy Trebay, "How to Wear a Tux," February 22
post #412 of 3158

I read that and started foaming at the mouth.

post #413 of 3158

That article is generally not bad, I don't know why you are getting upset about it. Sure it says that peak lapel rather than shawl is the default, and it doesn't really go into shoes. But it emphasizes that black tie shouldn't be difficult, you should wear clothes that fit, always wear a bow-tie, and don't go in for gimmicks like wearing black shirts, trainers or wacky colours.

 

post #414 of 3158
I think it's more the picture which suggest two-button for a SB and has no waist covering.
post #415 of 3158

"Sacrifice mobility... high armhole?" No waistcovering? Two buttons? Pocket flaps? The peak lapel is just about the only thing right with that rig. But I guess in today's context, it's far better than what we usually see. Maybe,

post #416 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parterre View Post

"Sacrifice mobility... high armhole?" No waistcovering?

I think there is something in making waist covering sort of "optional". Especially when you are doing a lot of dancing and need to stay cool. If I have to make do without one component of the prescribed and correct black tie outfit, it would be the waist covering, as long as I keep my jacket buttoned through the evening.

But I thought high armholes give you more mobility, not less?
post #417 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbowtie View Post

But I thought high armholes give you more mobility, not less?

Yep. Also facepalm.gif are the endorsement of 2B jackets, the claim that shawl lapels are more fuddy-duddy than peak lapels (shawl is more louche and casual than formal peak), and the requirement that the trousers have moderate break. Many, perhaps most, well-dressed men like their trousers to have no break at all.
post #418 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

Yep. Also facepalm.gif are the endorsement of 2B jackets, the claim that shawl lapels are more fuddy-duddy than peak lapels (shawl is more louche and casual than formal peak), and the requirement that the trousers have moderate break. Many, perhaps most, well-dressed men like their trousers to have no break at all.

I guess, by the standards of this day and age, we should probably be grateful that they are talking about black tie at all.
post #419 of 3158
Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

Yep. Also facepalm.gif are the endorsement of 2B jackets, the claim that shawl lapels are more fuddy-duddy than peak lapels (shawl is more louche and casual than formal peak), and the requirement that the trousers have moderate break. Many, perhaps most, well-dressed men like their trousers to have no break at all.

I'm sure they weren't even thinking about this, but I could get behind having slightly more break on a tuxedo trouser if the wearer is also wearing evening slippers or pumps. With a regular oxford a trouser with virtually no break sits atop the shoe nicely and contributes to a continuous flow. With the less substantial pump or slipper that continuity is lost if there is no break, particularly since there's space to see more sock.
post #420 of 3158
1. The thing that kills me about this article is that they say nothing about wearing a formal shirt, studs, or cufflinks.

2. The big problem with the waist covering being "optional" is that most of these (Gyllenhaal, Clooney) either go for low-rise trousers, or aren't wearing suspenders, so the pants slide down. This article constantly harps on a "clean" look, and it's definitely not clean if you have your jacket buttoned and there's shirt/waistband visible below the buttoning point, Both those guys look sloppy because of it. The trousers should be tailored to look good with the jacket... It doesn't matter what they look like without it. It seems to me like guys are looking for suit trousers that are cut like jeans to avoid the Bill Hader-as-Clint Eastwood highwater look, which destroys the overall look with the jacket on.

3. Looking at the gallery, the best example they have is Gerard Butler (waistcoat, 3 studs showing, short-medium break). It's hilarious to me that they slam Pitt for pants that are too long, and praise Clooney in the next photo when he has the exact same problem. (Pitt's trousers just need a hem, but if Clooney were wearing suspenders, he might be OK.)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The State of Black Tie: Your Observations