Originally Posted by Tried and True
I wouldn't base any scholarly work, concerning things sartorial, on wardrobes appearing in cinema.
The one film where I'd disagree, particularly regarding formalwear, was "The Untouchables". They had Armani do the wardrobing for that one, and the few scenes with guys in formalwear showed both the multiple variations in acceptable black tie as well as the distinction between black and white tie dress and events.
Originally Posted by jeffd
Curious - is this the proper sizing for a stiff collar? I need one and have been reluctant to follow the standard advice to go ½" up from your shirt size (I'm a true 15 ¼", so my shirt is a 15 ½" and it seems like the corresponding 16" collar would be huge).
FWIW, I think the white waistcoat looks great in this photo, though I'm not a stickler for the sartorial rules that get invented here and elsewhere. If someone is going to deviate from "strict" black tie, I'd much prefer to see them in this than to see them venture off with some novelty bow tie or cummerbund. Or to see their half-untucked shirt paunching about their low-rise pants.
I would imagine they tell you to size up because you'll have an extra layer in between (band collar on the shirt) and perhaps this isn't accounted for in measuring the collar? Or perhaps there's an expectation that you'll end up laundering a detachable white collar on such a high temperature that you can expect some shrinkage?
And I'm sure between 50 and 100 years ago, give or take, there was far more mixing of black and white tie pieces, as the transition from white tie to black as the standard of "formal" was slowly beginning.