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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 186

post #2776 of 3406
You went on honeymoon to Glasgow!!wow.gif
post #2777 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by culverwood View Post

You went on honeymoon to Glasgow!!wow.gif
There's only so much you can do at a beach. London, Liverpool (she's a Beatles fanatic), and Glasgow (my g'grandfather emigrated from there a century ago); rail travel in between. It was a relaxing trip -- Glasgow made for a nice place to stay while daytripping around the Highlands.

Anybody have a source for an inexpensive black waistcoat? I can't seem to find much under $200 with a proper shape, either with or without lapels; closest I can get is this thing. There's got to be better for less.
post #2778 of 3406
That makes sense as a touring base and Glasgow is a proud city.

This waist coat is a little more than you are looking to pay but it will be a step up from the CT.
http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/formal-dress/products/black-tie-evening-waistcoat
post #2779 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by random-adam View Post


Anybody have a source for an inexpensive black waistcoat? I can't seem to find much under $200 with a proper shape, either with or without lapels; closest I can get is this thing. There's got to be better for less.

These two from Brooks aren't exactly inexpensive, but with the 25% discount available for the next few days, they're about $130. I have the first one, and it's quite nice. The second, from the Gatsby collection, has a pattern, and is only available in Large (online).

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Silk-Barathea-Backless-Vest/021I,default,pd.html?dwvar_021I_Color=BLCK&contentpos=40&cgid=0235

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/The-Great-Gatsby-Collection-Backless-Vest/MZ00015,default,pd.html?dwvar_MZ00015_Color=BLCK&contentpos=53&cgid=0235

I also have this shawl-collared RLPL vest, pictured here on the black tie guide: http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Waist_Covering/ralphlauren_purplelabel_grosgrainvest.jpg

I bought it on sale for not much more than the Brooks version, but I'm not sure if it's currently available.
post #2780 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by culverwood View Post

This waist coat is a little more than you are looking to pay but it will be a step up from the CT.
http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/formal-dress/products/black-tie-evening-waistcoat
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post

These two from Brooks aren't exactly inexpensive, but with the 25% discount available for the next few days, they're about $130. I have the first one, and it's quite nice.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Silk-Barathea-Backless-Vest/021I,default,pd.html?dwvar_021I_Color=BLCK&contentpos=40&cgid=0235
Much obliged to both of you. My cummerbund got run over by my car last month (don't ask) and an event in ten days snuck up on me; looks like Brooks Brothers is the safest bet.

518aata, is it safe to assume the pockets on your first option are functional?
post #2781 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by random-adam View Post

Anybody have a source for an inexpensive black waistcoat? I can't seem to find much under $200 with a proper shape, either with or without lapels; closest I can get is this thing. There's got to be better for less.

 

Even vintage, this was one of the toughest pieces for me to find.  I searched online for it daily for around three weeks, maybe more, before finding one.  I got mine at Ruby Lane Antiques, I believe, and it was $50 plus shipping.  It was another $35 to have it taken in at the sides.  What I also found with those things is that, if a seller has similar sorts of things (i.e. Tuxedos) up for sale online, they often have storage lockers full of other things, and you can always email to ask if they have what you want.

 

If second hand/vintage interests you at all, eBay (of course), etsy, and savvyrow.co.uk all have a chance of turning something up.  You must be persistent!

post #2782 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by random-adam View Post


518aata, is it safe to assume the pockets on your first option are functional?

If I recall correctly, both the Brooks and RLPL have small, but functional pockets.
post #2783 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by 518aata View Post

If I recall correctly, both the Brooks and RLPL have small, but functional pockets.
That's all I needed to hear -- BB waistcoast is on its way. Thanks again for your help!
post #2784 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post


But part of me wants to add an ivory dinner jacket to the collection. Any ideas for a good maker? The only one I have seen is made by Armani and it was silk and wool and right around $1900.

I currently have one event a year on my calendar which I could easily justify my tuxedo (especially at the price I paid).

Any thoughts- ps...I live in Florida.

If you are going to own an ivory dinner jacket, a climate like Florida's is a good place to do it. Generally the further south you go, the more acceptable they become in summer. That said, you already have a tuxedo and probably are not going to a lot of black tie events in Florida. Odds are if you manage to find 5 excuses a year to wear your tuxedo, only one will occur during the summer months where you could actually wear the ivory dinner jacket. A tuxedo is a good thing to have in case you get invited to a black tie event and want to look your best (meaning not having to wear a rental). An ivory dinner jacket just seems extravagant in this day and age. Spend the money on a linen suit or something that will get a good bit more wear instead.
post #2785 of 3406
Crossposting from the white tie thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post

Just took a look at the NY Times gallery from the Met Gala. Do people think white tie means white jacket? Warning: a whole lot of fail in that gallery.
post #2786 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post

Crossposting from the white tie thread:

The Black Tie Guide reviewed it. You can check the blog.
post #2787 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyarkies View Post

The Black Tie Guide reviewed it. You can check the blog.

Thanks. I wish Colin Firth was in the NY Times gallery. He's the only person I've seen in opera pumps.
post #2788 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

If you are going to own an ivory dinner jacket, a climate like Florida's is a good place to do it.
It's year round wear in Florida and the Caribbean; always has been.
post #2789 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post

It's year round wear in Florida and the Caribbean; always has been.

I think it depends on how traditionally minded you are. In theory ivory dinner jackets should be acceptable in the northern parts of the United States as it can get pretty darn warm here even though we have nothing on summers in the south. Many people, however, would not wear an ivory dinner jacket at any time in the northern part of the United States. Perhaps in Florida one can stretch the Memorial Day to Labor Day range out a bit and people may wear them year-round, but I'd still consider to be in very poor taste to wear an ivory dinner jacket during the winter in any part of the United States. Perhaps in a more tropical climate (the Caribbean), but not Florida.

Plus, to the extent that one travels for black tie events (weddings of friends and the like), the extra dinner jacket will be pretty much useless most of the year.
post #2790 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


I think it depends on how traditionally minded you are. In theory ivory dinner jackets should be acceptable in the northern parts of the United States as it can get pretty darn warm here even though we have nothing on summers in the south. Many people, however, would not wear an ivory dinner jacket at any time in the northern part of the United States. Perhaps in Florida one can stretch the Memorial Day to Labor Day range out a bit and people may wear them year-round, but I'd still consider to be in very poor taste to wear an ivory dinner jacket during the winter in any part of the United States. Perhaps in a more tropical climate (the Caribbean), but not Florida.

Plus, to the extent that one travels for black tie events (weddings of friends and the like), the extra dinner jacket will be pretty much useless most of the year.

 

That guideline only really exists in the US, as the May long weekend is too early, probably for a white DJ in Canada, or Europe.  So, it makes sense that it uses a US holiday.  Year round wear in the tropics has to do with the year round heat, as well as the relative stability of the weather throughout the year.  They have seasons, for sure, but the differences between them are nothing like they are in the almost all of the US.  Just as much as the weather, it has to do with the inherently reduced formality of any event taking place at a holiday destination.  There are multiple reasons that it is a good idea, all year, in the tropics.

 

Outside the US, "no white after Labour Day" ends after Easter, not Memorial Day.  One could, I suppose, use this guideline, in Florida and the southern US.  I think one could wear a white DJ in, say, Toronto, from the second week of July to the third week of August, without any disparaging thoughts or remarks.  On the edges of that range, you would probably be fine, but outside July and August, in most of North America in the northern US, it can seem like trying to wear it on a technicality.  There is normally a period of the year where everything is reduced in formality, related to hot weather, and it varies by region.  I would say, if you find you're in that part of the year where things feel, and are approached as being, more casual in general, you're fine to wear the DJ.  It's not a very tangible concept, I admit.

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