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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 183

post #2731 of 3319
Castangia is as good as/better than anything on your list (unless you're going for RLPL).
post #2732 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post

Assuming a tuxedo purchase price between $1000-$2500 what designers/makers should. I be considering?

I have tried on two different makers thus far Castangia and Samuelsohn (because I am familiar with their suits).

Any thoughts on:
Brooks Brothers
Ralph Lauren
Canali
Corneliani

Others I should be considering?

I sincerely appreciate any assistance.

Provided they fit you well and have the correct details (1 button, peak or shawl lapel, etc.), I think you'd do fine with any of these choices. Considering that you live in the south, I would advise you to get a tuxedo made of the lightest fabric possible that can go the better part of a night without wrinkling. I'd also advise a cummerbund over a waistcoat to avoid the extra heat. I'd check out the places you cited, figure out which tuxedo fits you the best and has the right details, and go from there.

Brooks Brothers MTM is definitely in your price range as are some other MTM options. A tuxedo may not be the best choice for a first MTM commission from an unfamiliar maker, though. If a particular brand fits you well already, MTM may be safer because they will be basing the garment on a model that you are already familiar with. The one advantage you get with MTM in addition to fit and customization options (they should be able to do peak / shawl even if their OTR tuxedos are notch) is fabric selection which could help you stay cool at a warm black tie event in the south.
post #2733 of 3319

Gentlemen,

 

My dinner jacket has no buttonhole on the lapel for a boutonnière. What does one do, in this case, when a floral arrangement is required to be worn for, say, one's wedding?

 

While it's not a particularly expensive or high-end jacket, I'm still not exactly enthusiastic with the idea of pinning through the satin facing—but this seems to be the only option, either directly through the stem of the flower (leaving me worried that the plant's sap may ruin the facing) or using a lapel vase. Would you gents have any other suggestions? If I go the route of a lapel vase, would you have any recommendations?

 

N.B.: I have no problem with wearing a flower in one's lapel, but have seen some manner of herbivore's entrée get pinned to a chap's chest in the name of Holy Matrimony. I do intend on ensuring this arrangement remain small and elegant.

post #2734 of 3319
Why not get a buttonhole put in by a tailor or seamstress?
post #2735 of 3319
And keep the "arrangement" down to a single flower.
post #2736 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by culverwood View Post

Why not get a buttonhole put in by a tailor or seamstress?

Seems too much of a risk for irreparably damaging the facing, doesn't it? With the event just over three weeks away, I've no time (or, frankly, spare funds) to replace the jacket if the job goes south.
post #2737 of 3319

Assuming you've got a peak lapel, you could try having the flower's head peek through the gap between the lapel and the collar.  Get some thread and attach the two (if there isn't already a thread there) and add a loop on the backside of the lapel.  Stick the flower through that gap (being held by the thread) and the loop will keep it in place.  Not an ideal solution because the placement of the flower is a little off, but it's probably your best solution if you don't want to risk the facing.

post #2738 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMangelo View Post

Seems too much of a risk for irreparably damaging the facing, doesn't it? With the event just over three weeks away, I've no time (or, frankly, spare funds) to replace the jacket if the job goes south.

That is why you go to a tailor you can trust. Mine has no buttonhole, and I did not wear a boutonnière in the evening. I contemplated adding one, but I just liked the clean look of the lapel without it. I did, however, wear one with my morning coat, at the ceremony.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

Assuming you've got a peak lapel, you could try having the flower's head peek through the gap between the lapel and the collar.  Get some thread and attach the two (if there isn't already a thread there) and add a loop on the backside of the lapel.  Stick the flower through that gap (being held by the thread) and the loop will keep it in place.  Not an ideal solution because the placement of the flower is a little off, but it's probably your best solution if you don't want to risk the facing.

This sounds, to me, like it would look awful. However, buy a flower, put it on this way, and see what you think.

What do people think of pinning a standard boutonnière to the lapel? Will it harm the jacket? I'm inclined to say that it will not do permanent damage to the facing for the sake of one time. My experience, however, is limited to rentals worn for others' weddings, and while those facings would have been polyester, they no doubt were pinned numerous times, and I don't remember seeing it full of pin pricks. We are talking about a straight pin, not the hefty post of a lapel pin. You can still do a pinned on boutonnière with a single flower; all of my groomsmen had them, and I has the florist wrap the stems in a olour of tape that would best blend into their jackets.
post #2739 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMangelo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by culverwood View Post

Why not get a buttonhole put in by a tailor or seamstress?

Seems too much of a risk for irreparably damaging the facing, doesn't it? With the event just over three weeks away, I've no time (or, frankly, spare funds) to replace the jacket if the job goes south.

If the buttonhole is botched (which should be a minimal risk because the tailor will have shown you a buttonhole, right), the worst case is that you pin it through the buttonhole, leaving you where are now.
post #2740 of 3319
I am back from my black tie event. I have some thoughts:

1) There are a lot of bad tuxedos out there

2) That was the last time I wear a rental tux...I felt like I was at prom. If you are going to wear a tuxedo it should make you look better than ever.

3) Not only were there a lot of bad tuxedos, but there were some terrible accessories on display.

4) I would say the notch lapel to peaked and shawl lapels was around 20:1




So when I arrived back home this afternoon I went to my two favorite mens clothing shops to try on a Samuelsohn, a Corneliani and a Castangia tuxedo. My thoughts:

1) First the prices: Samuelsohn = $1400, Corneliani = $1800, Castangia = $3000

2) A surprising fact...both Samuelsohn and Corneliani only come in a notched lapel. I was a bit surprised to hear Corneliani did not make the other lapels. I think this eliminated them because (to me) it just looks like a black suit.

So that brings me to the Castangia tuxedo. It was pretty amazing...sleek, light weight and elegant and for $3k it should be all that and more. I am debating the investment as I was really looking at $2k and below. On the other hand I am not sure I can imagine a tuxedo looking better on me than that one.
post #2741 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post

I am back from my black tie event. I have some thoughts...
Your points one through four are universal sad realities. It's a shame men don't seem to care about this sort of thing -- not necessarily to the extent we do here, but even beyond "oh, it's all black with a white shirt and a black tie, it must be a tuxedo." I hope you had an enjoyable time regardless!

I'm afraid I don't quite understand the focus on brand names. $3k is well above the sort of MTM territory where one can specify peak lapels, two (or zero) vents, grosgrain or satin lapels, and everything else to create the quintessential black tie rig. Kent Wang, for instance, comes to mind; their finest fabrics will max out at half that budget. My own tuxedo was out-the-door from English American in Westminster, Maryland for just a hair over $800 a few years ago (plus a few gallons of gas to get there and back from my home near DC). In both cases they're fully canvassed, made to measure, and utterly nail the details.

Then again, if that personal walk-in-a-local-store touch is necessary, the options described above make more sense... and I invite you to disregard my above ramblings.
post #2742 of 3319
post #2743 of 3319
I am not focusing on those three alone...but they were the first three I have tried on. Constangia is on my short list because. I own a couple of Castangia suits and they fit me like a glove. They have an unstructured shoulder which is perfect for me because I have broad shoulders already.

Now admittedly my two other Castangia suits were purchased 1/2 off for around $1500 and I am considering a third suit which is also 1/2 off.

I will gladly try Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren and I am intrigued by Kent Wang from the website you listed.

I am open minded, but I want a tuxedo that fits me like a glove.
post #2744 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I am back from my black tie event. I have some thoughts:

1) There are a lot of bad tuxedos out there

2) That was the last time I wear a rental tux...I felt like I was at prom. If you are going to wear a tuxedo it should make you look better than ever.

3) Not only were there a lot of bad tuxedos, but there were some terrible accessories on display.

4) I would say the notch lapel to peaked and shawl lapels was around 20:1


So when I arrived back home this afternoon I went to my two favorite mens clothing shops to try on a Samuelsohn, a Corneliani and a Castangia tuxedo. My thoughts:

1) First the prices: Samuelsohn = $1400, Corneliani = $1800, Castangia = $3000

2) A surprising fact...both Samuelsohn and Corneliani only come in a notched lapel. I was a bit surprised to hear Corneliani did not make the other lapels. I think this eliminated them because (to me) it just looks like a black suit.

So that brings me to the Castangia tuxedo. It was pretty amazing...sleek, light weight and elegant and for $3k it should be all that and more. I am debating the investment as I was really looking at $2k and below. On the other hand I am not sure I can imagine a tuxedo looking better on me than that one.

I went with Tom James for my wedding tuxedo. My first fitting was earlier this week. It was totally made to measure, everything spec'd the way I wanted. First fitting was decent. Since I have plenty of time before my wedding, we are making some changes to the fit. For example, the waistcoat is a bit off, I want more shape to the jacket, and we are tapering the pants below the knee a bit.

My specs:
- black herringbone
- narrow(ish) shawl collar
- no vent
- single satin button, single satin sleeve button
- waistcoat
- plain front, no cuff, no belt loop, no side tab pants
- sweet purple jacket lining with monogram

Not sure what the forum's group-think is on Tom James but I am extremely satisfied with quality, fit, and service. My final price for the tux only was $1200. I spent a lot of time researching and am very happy with what I get for that price. Pics to come (in September)!
post #2745 of 3319
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post
 On the other hand I am not sure I can imagine a tuxedo looking better on me than that one.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post

Constangia is on my short list because. I own a couple of Castangia suits and they fit me like a glove. They have an unstructured shoulder which is perfect for me because I have broad shoulders already.

 

It would appear that you have your priorities entirely in order.  Of course, try others, if only to concretely affirm your opinion.  If you can afford the added expense, and you truly prefer it to all others, and you do not believe you can have one made that will rival/exceed it for less money, then I would say buy it.  I, of course, would prefer you to buy a $2000 Tuxedo and send me a $500 consulting fee, thus saving yourself $500.  See how benevolent I can be? 

 

Quote
Originally Posted by mikeharo View Post

My specs:
- black herringbone
 

Lovely, understated bit of personalisation.  I applaud your initiative, sir!

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