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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 179

post #2671 of 3406

Looks lovely!  As to boutonnieres, I went into the florist and said "this flower, and leave the stem on it" - took me forever to explain how it worked wearing a flower with a working buttonhole, and to convince the florist, and my mother, that I knew something they didn't.

post #2672 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

Carl (CEGO) made my tux shirt and I asked him to sew in a button on the pants for the tab. We marked the appropriate spot on the pants when I was wearing the shirt and pants.

The shirt had a tab in the front which I assume was for this. To be honest, I was so incredibly rushed I didn't have time to take care of these little things the way I wanted. Part of the reason that I wanted to order from NSM was to have Mina do all parts of the outfit and not get it from different vendors and require different measurements, etc. Oh well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyarkies View Post

@haganah Did Luxire give you an explanation why they didn't have slit buttonholes for the studs on their formal shirts? I was considering having one made but hesitated after seeing the weird buttonholes on the marcella bib.

I never asked. I should have. I don't really fault them to be honest - we had a lot of back and forth before I got the shirt. Lots of confusion because the bib and the number of studs I wanted to show really depends on the waistcoat and the opening of the jacket. They were very good about trying to get things to me in time. And I asked for a voile body on the shirt which was VERY nice - CEGO and Ercole both are not fans of voile because it "looks weird" and I think it looked just fine and kept me cooler than the usual. If you order from Luxire ask for normal buttonholes, not the small ones like I got because I'm sure whoever requested the little holes probably had some special studs which I couldn't find. Ultimately had someone in the garment district open them a bit for me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Looks lovely!  As to boutonnieres, I went into the florist and said "this flower, and leave the stem on it" - took me forever to explain how it worked wearing a flower with a working buttonhole, and to convince the florist, and my mother, that I knew something they didn't.

Just an FYI, I got a bit of a pushback from tailors when I talked about having the flower stem go through the hole and be held behind the lapel. Evidently the stem often stretches the hole and discolors it. I think I will stick with pocket square only going forward and take the advice to order a small silk one online if I ever need to wear one.
post #2673 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by haganah View Post

I never posted these from Autumn. I hardly post here anymore so I don't even know all the new usernames but what the heck.

The tuxedo (peak grosgrain lapels, single button, no vent) was from kiton, shoes (simple patent leather) from tom ford, the waistcoat was a double vested horse-shoe with lapels, the bow was from ercole (in same material as lapel), and the shirt was voile with marcella bib/cuffs/collar. I think the pocket square I got a while back at Venanzi and I had the studs/links from a long time ago.

I wanted to do NSM but didn't have time and had a few issues with ercole so I only used him for the bow tie - you play the hand your dealt in the end. Many thanks to Manton and Eustace Tilly for answering my questions along the way. Wrinkles were from moving, I'll starch the bib of the shirt more heavily next time since that bugs me, and I will never again trust a florist to understand what a small boutonnière is.



What elegance! Compliments.

post #2674 of 3406

My black-tie rig:

post #2675 of 3406

Lovely, @eilay!  Do you wear a wast covering, or forego it?  I normally don't like high lapel gorges, but I find they work quite well on you, with that jacket.


Edited by ImTheGroom - 3/29/14 at 11:55pm
post #2676 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by eilay View Post

My black-tie rig:


Compliment...Great look
post #2677 of 3406
This page has delivered. Great job gentlemen, @eilay @haganah two great fits.icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #2678 of 3406

Thanks for all the compliments! Couldn't have done it without SF.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post
 

Lovely, @eilay!  Do you wear a wast covering, or forego it?  I normally don't like high lapel gorges, but I find they work quite well on you, with that jacket.

I wore a cummerbund. Despite it supposedly being more for shawl lapels, I like the contrast of showing a lot of white shirt, and it's rather hard to find a satin-faced low-cut waistcoat.

post #2679 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by eilay View Post
 

I wore a cummerbund. Despite it supposedly being more for shawl lapels, I like the contrast of showing a lot of white shirt, and it's rather hard to find a satin-faced low-cut waistcoat.

 

I don't know that it is more appropriate to a shawl collar.  It's less formal than a waistcoat, but I have never thought there is anything wrong with wearing a cummerbund with peaks.  I think there would be more of an argument that, with a shawl collar, a cummerbund might be more appropriate than a waistcoat.  Even so, I think you can do either type of waist covering with either peaks, or shawl.  It is certainly preferable to an uncovered waist!

post #2680 of 3406
Great page.

Does anyone have thoughts on what kind of shoulder to get with a shawl lapel tux? Part of me thinks that because the shawl collar seems more relaxed, it would look better with a softer neapolitan shoulder. But it also seems like a formal rig like a tuxedo generally should have a more structured/roped shoulder. Thinking about having one made soon and just exploring options at this point.
post #2681 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02///M3 View Post

Great page.

Does anyone have thoughts on what kind of shoulder to get with a shawl lapel tux? Part of me thinks that because the shawl collar seems more relaxed, it would look better with a softer neapolitan shoulder. But it also seems like a formal rig like a tuxedo generally should have a more structured/roped shoulder. Thinking about having one made soon and just exploring options at this point.

Get what looks best on you re: shoulder type. The shawl collar will have a more relaxed look regardless of shoulder type. A tuxedo is a formal garment, but there have always been a range of acceptable silhouettes for suits and tuxedos and the trick is finding the one or ones that look best on you and sticking with them. Don't confuse yourself unnecessarily.
post #2682 of 3406
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post

Get what looks best on you re: shoulder type. The shawl collar will have a more relaxed look regardless of shoulder type. A tuxedo is a formal garment, but there have always been a range of acceptable silhouettes for suits and tuxedos and the trick is finding the one or ones that look best on you and sticking with them. Don't confuse yourself unnecessarily.

This. I just didn't want to type it all in my phone. Wouldn't have said it as well, anyway.
post #2683 of 3406
Appreciate the replies. I generally like softer shoulders on my suits, so will probably go that direction. Will of course post pics once it's all said and done.
post #2684 of 3406

So, after an extensive discussion with @archibaldleach on the Wedding thread, I'm curious to know what others think.  What are your thoughts on formal loafers, such as those discussed in this post, and whole cuts, such as the ones featured in this post, as Black Tie footwear?  Are they a passing trend?  Are they a variation that will be adopted, and accepted, as part of the canon?  Are they an abomination, whose wear should be punishable by branding?

 

I am inclined to agree with the author, our own @Midnight Blue of course, that they follow the overarching theme of refined minimalism, as he puts it, that defines Black Tie.  This is, of course, why I wear a pair of formal loafers with my Tuxedo.  What does everyone else think?

post #2685 of 3406
Considering that well-dressed individuals are vastly outnumbered by poorly dressed individuals, I highly doubt any sartorial transgression could in fact be punished by branding no matter how abominable. I also suspect some of the forum elders who don't post on this thread as much anymore probably have more conservative views on the subject than the average poster here.
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