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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations - Page 153

post #2281 of 3505
Are you stealthily covering a second button and flap pockets with your arms?

I wouldn't consider black captoes as breaking the rules unless they were punch caps or had some broguing.

That is a pretty cool dinner jacket, I love ones that have some texture to them.

J
post #2282 of 3505
No, not covering anything. I never quite know what to do with my hands when "modeling" for SF. The jacket is silk, single button, ventless, with jetted pockets. Thank you for the kind words; I really liked the texture as well. It's a little different without being too bold. My shoes were AE 5th Ave's with the punch cap, so breaking the rules a little.
post #2283 of 3505

Hello,

I've been meaning to post this for a long time, but never got round to it.

I have, since I came here (to Edinburgh) for my further studies, realised that I'll be in need of a proper dinner jacket, since there are quite a few events hosted by the university or various student societies, that require it. So I went about through the numerous charity shops here (and there a re truly many, many dinner jackets to be had... Among other things I passed up an Armani tux. After reading the Black Tie Guide back to back in a few days I felt ready, and indeed, if I remember correctly, I found a very nice, quite old dinner suit in a very short time. (A day or so. But I did check around 25 shops...)

 

Would anyone have any idea how old this might be? It seems quite to very old to me, but I'm far from sure. One clue to its age is the fact that it's a 3-piece. And that the company by which it was made stopped work in 1985, I think.

It's fully canvased, ad made of a heavy, very soft, and breathable barathea wool fabric (too old to be synthetic. And much too fine). It's unbelievably comfortable. I mean, I've even ran in this suit...

It was probably a nice off the peg suit. (as it has tags in all separate pieces and lacks surgeon cuffs. It's only a guess, though.)

 

        

 

    

 

Price (as it seems to bother some) (Click to show)
The price was 35GBP, plus tailoring - I had to have some things altered, and the lapels were originally grosgrain (quite worn out at the edges and peaks) and have been changed for a matte satin (it was much cheaper, because the tailor salvaged it from another job.).
Details and variants (Click to show)

I have two extra waist coverings(they were very cheap, found in charity shops):

Silk satin cummerbund (Burberry's, made in England, 10GBP, I think)

Cotton velvet double-breasted waistcoat (no tag, 10GBP)

 

And the details (to help identify the age):
 Curved breast pocket

 

 Brand - Baronia.

 

 Other tags are gone, like this one (there was a tag in the waistcoat pockets, and the trouser back pocket)

 

 Link closure.

 

 Waistcoat (with a new back)

 

 Trousers - double forward pleats, brace buttons on the outside, braid on the side.

 

 Trouser closure

 

 Pleats, pocket, braid details.

 

post #2284 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post


On the topic of more formal, have any of you fellas worn or seen a white vest with black tie?

I know it is listed as a dressier option in the guide, but worry it will look forced or costumey in practice.

J

I wore this a few times -- it never felt gimmicky. Visually it's a bit unusual at first, but very quickly looks natural. I stopped wearing it, not because of costumey concerns, but because I think you need fairly flat abs for it to really look good: you have to go unbuttoned for its full effect, and the jacket hanging loosely at my sides wasn't as flattering as it buttoned up

 

 

*

post #2285 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

Wow, those are great, both the jacket and the vintage waistcoat.

Can you just go to the FIT museum? I noticed a lot of the pictures in "Ivy Style" were from there.

J

Yeah, walk right in (I don't know the hours, but circa lunchtime is always good). Their Ivy Style exhibit (with book of the same title) was great, and the one on the '30s is on the list -- luckily, it's close enough to Penn Station that I can drag my friends there.

post #2286 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gajsek View Post

Hello,
I've been meaning to post this for a long time, but never got round to it.

Nice find!
post #2287 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belfagor View Post

I wore this a few times... I stopped wearing it, not because of costumey concerns, but because I think you need fairly flat abs for it to really look good: you have to go unbuttoned for its full effect, and the jacket hanging loosely at my sides wasn't as flattering as it buttoned up

And that in a nutshell is why the black waistcoat was invented and paired with dinner suits. It's more flattering for more people.
post #2288 of 3505
@gajsek That is a beautiful suit, well done.

J
post #2289 of 3505
Question: I have a pair of trousers that look ok with Oxfords, but too short with pumps.

Is this normal? Do I just not know how they are supposed to look?

J
post #2290 of 3505
Also, so you can share in my awkward moment; I went to fasten said trousers and with great alarm thought to myself "Oh my god, how much weight could I possibly have gained?!"

And then I realized that I was trying to fasten the waist to a suspender button.

J
post #2291 of 3505
^ Legendary.
post #2292 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by denning View Post

In reference to the discussion about green dinner attire, PTO just had a post the other day that included this green velvet smoking jacket.

This jacket is absolutely great. I'll do an identical from my tailor.

post #2293 of 3505

I think tuxes are coming back! People want to live more in the now and have fun. Forget the crisis, let's wear black tie!

post #2294 of 3505
Today I received a pair of black Alligator wholecuts (Carmina Rain last) from a fellow SF'er (thanks). They look great, and they'll be my wedding/ black tie shoe, rather than my patent oxfords or calf pumps.
post #2295 of 3505
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

Today I received a pair of black Alligator wholecuts (Carmina Rain last) from a fellow SF'er (thanks). They look great, and they'll be my wedding/ black tie shoe, rather than my patent oxfords or calf pumps.
photos?
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